GX CS4 grease pot and burst disc ports

[F6Hawk]

I ordered that filter, but the gold version. I am returning it because it appears the air flow around the filter and not through it. Must be poor tolerances and/or bad orings. I may try another brand.

Also my GX CS4 stopped running (went from start to off) at 1500 psi while filling the tank. It was pretty hot in the garage and overheating may explain it. Is it normal for the moisture out of the bleed line to be opaque/milky?

Yes, the color is normal. It's from the grease that is all over the cylinder walls, mixing with the air and water. I used to get clear, then opaque, and now dark marks as the grease has broken down a bit.

The air in the filter SHOULD go in one end, thru the Foster and into the middle of the plastic sleeve, then on the other end (hopefully the charcoal end) there are two small holes for the air to leave the sleeve and go back into the gold chamber.

Sounds like your PS got hot and cut off. Should reset after a short cooling period.

 

[olafberzerk]

I'm starting to think I got a dud. Few issues, not sure is 100% normal. Probably paranoid, but may sent GX an email.

Visible oil in the bleed water. Photo attached
Grease seeping out of the top of the grease pot, under the turn knob. Photo attached.
The water reservoir cap/tank is extremely hot. Too hot to touch for more than a second. The water inside is near the same temperature (obviously). Water is 140 deg F in an 85 deg F garage. I think the unit is overheating after about 30 mins of use. It switches off and the start button won't work after I bleed the system. I have to turn the unit off, then back on to restart it.

 

[ray1377]

All the talk about running it on its side. Would this not be counter productive to the way the factory water separator works? I mean doesn't the idea of the water goes down and the cleaner dryer air goes up to the output port? Isn't that why the bleed valve is lower on the pressure block? Looks like laying it on its side and running it that way would allow moisture to make its way to the output port? Just asking

Thx
Ray

 

[F6Hawk]

I'm starting to think I got a dud. Few issues, not sure is 100% normal. Probably paranoid, but may sent GX an email.

Visible oil in the bleed water. Photo attached
Grease seeping out of the top of the grease pot, under the turn knob. Photo attached.
The water reservoir cap/tank is extremely hot. Too hot to touch for more than a second. The water inside is near the same temperature (obviously). Water is 140 deg F in an 85 deg F garage. I think the unit is overheating after about 30 mins of use. It switches off and the start button won't work after I bleed the system. I have to turn the unit off, then back on to restart it.

It's hard to diagnose via pics, but my guesses are:

Oil (actually grease) from the bleed valve is normal. If over-serviced, more will be present for a few uses. (Did you turn the knob at ALL when you received it?)

Grease seeping out of the knob would happen at the temps you are describing.
Have you ensured that water is flowing when you turn the unit on? As in, take the cap off and look for movement in the water while power is applied, but before turning on the compressor? Air bubbles can occur in the bottom of the reservoir, causing a hydro lock. Take the cap off, and shine a light into the water and look for active flow. If the return line is not spewing water, turn it off and on 2-4 times until water starts to flow.

Check out my post: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/2024-cs4-setup.1307075/

My coolant temp never got above about 96° F. I'm betting either you have air bubbles preventing water flow (needs to be bled), or your pump is bad.

Please report back...

 

[F6Hawk]

All the talk about running it on its side. Would this not be counter productive to the way the factory water separator works? I mean doesn't the idea of the water goes down and the cleaner dryer air goes up to the output port? Isn't that why the bleed valve is lower on the pressure block? Looks like laying it on its side and running it that way would allow moisture to make its way to the output port? Just asking

Thx
Ray

Water will settle to the bottom of the hole, and air will rise to the top regardless of position. As long as one "burps" the bleed valve from time time time (I do every 15-20 minutes), you'll never have enough water accumulation so as to push it into the gun or tank.

 

[olafberzerk]

It's hard to diagnose via pics, but my guesses are:

Oil (actually grease) from the bleed valve is normal. If over-serviced, more will be present for a few uses. (Did you turn the knob at ALL when you received it?)

Grease seeping out of the knob would happen at the temps you are describing.
Have you ensured that water is flowing when you turn the unit on? As in, take the cap off and look for movement in the water while power is applied, but before turning on the compressor? Air bubbles can occur in the bottom of the reservoir, causing a hydro lock. Take the cap off, and shine a light into the water and look for active flow. If the return line is not spewing water, turn it off and on 2-4 times until water starts to flow.

Check out my post: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/2024-cs4-setup.1307075/

My coolant temp never got above about 96° F. I'm betting either you have air bubbles preventing water flow (needs to be bled), or your pump is bad.

Please report back...

Water is flowing normally and always has into the top of the reservoir. I topped off with DI water, ran it for a few seconds, dumped the water and repeated a few times until the water ran clear. So, I don't think water flow is the issue and the pump is probably bad.

Never turned the grease pot, but I did pull the pot off the unit when new. It was half full with grease. Not depth wise, but like it had been shipped on its side for most of the trip so the cylinder was half full like a semi-circle (if that makes any sense). Email already sent to GX pumps. I'll report back what they say.

 

[F6Hawk]

Water is flowing normally and always has into the top of the reservoir. I topped off with DI water, ran it for a few seconds, dumped the water and repeated a few times until the water ran clear. So, I don't think water flow is the issue and the pump is probably bad.

Never turned the grease pot, but I did pull the pot off the unit when new. It was half full with grease. Not depth wise, but like it had been shipped on its side for most of the trip so the cylinder was half full like a semi-circle (if that makes any sense). Email already sent to GX pumps. I'll report back what they say.

Flushing the water several times is good. I probably pumped more than a gallon thru mine before it ran clear. Regardless of how well it was flowing after you flushed it, I'd verify water flow every time I turned it on (hence my adding LEDs to make it easy to see).

Take your grease pot out, turn the knob until the grease is level, then back it off 2-3 turns and reinstall it. This will prevent you from just pushing air into the cylinder when you turn the knob one time at around 6-10 hours from now. (As you can see from my thread, I had the same issue with a huge air pocket in my grease pot too. Many do.)