GX CS4 grease pot and burst disc ports

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olafberzerk

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Jun 22, 2024
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Hi,
I got my CS4 direct from gxpumpofficial.com. The grease pot came half filled with grease. I saw another post about that and not too worried about it. I'll fill it with the recommended grease. Is the burst disc port normal? It is very dirty and full of grease. Wondering if I got a used unit.

Also, has anyone run this unit on its side? I see it has feet on one of the sides.

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Ta-Ta Toothie said:
You would burn up the water pump running it on its side.
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How would you burn up the water pump? First of all, it's a magnetic drive, so there is nothing to "burn up". Secondly, the pump doesn't know at what angle it is installed; it can be installed in any configuration and still pump water. Ergo, running the compressor on it's side (that's why it has feet on one side) wouldn't hurt a thing, AS LONG AS the water level was above the indicating dot on the cap, and air wasn't allowed to be sucked into the lines.

Now, one COULD argue that running 100% of the time on its side would cause the piston seals to wear unevenly due to gravity, and therefore require replacing sooner. Can't argue that concept, though I have no idea what the time difference would be.
 
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olafberzerk said:
Hi,
I got my CS4 direct from gxpumpofficial.com. The grease pot came half filled with grease. I saw another post about that and not too worried about it. I'll fill it with the recommended grease. Is the burst disc port normal? It is very dirty and full of grease. Wondering if I got a used unit.

Also, has anyone run this unit on its side? I see it has feet on one of the sides.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that grease pot is one area that needs some serious quality control IMO. It needs to be better filled and leveled from the factory. I'd bet anyone a steak dinner that the factor folks in charge of the grease pots have no idea how critical that part of the device actually is. As stated above, I removed mine, screwed out, leveled the grease, then backed it off about 3 turns to install (making room for the black diaphragm). When I finally decide to turn the knob when my compressor reaches the ripe old age of 10 hours, I will turn it one full turn while it is running, and feel the knob and listen to the compressor. I'll KNOW when grease is being injected, whether it takes 1, 2, or 3 turns. After that, one turn every 8-10 hours is what mine will get.

A dirty burst disc area is normal, as they are run at the factory. Simply clean it up and move on. And plan to do the same thing every 2-5 hours as you use your compressor, bearing in mind that over-greasing it will cause more dirty grease in there, as well as cause the cylinder to lock up and not make pressure. Less is more, as they say.

Yes, it can be run on its side. I wouldn't do that exclusively, as I feel it would cause the piston rings to wear unevenly, but it might take years for that to be a factor. Cannot say for sure.
 
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F6Hawk said:
How would you burn up the water pump? First of all, it's a magnetic drive, so there is nothing to "burn up". Secondly, the pump doesn't know at what angle it is installed; it can be installed in any configuration and still pump water. Ergo, running the compressor on it's side (that's why it has feet on one side) wouldn't hurt a thing, AS LONG AS the water level was above the indicating dot on the cap, and air wasn't allowed to be sucked into the lines.

Now, one COULD argue that running 100% of the time on its side would cause the piston seals to wear unevenly due to gravity, and therefore require replacing sooner. Can't argue that concept, though I have no idea what the time difference would be.
Click to expand...
Pumps have seals, run them dry and they will fail. I can see how air could get sucked in on its side with the reservoir if not absolutely topped off.
 
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Ta-Ta Toothie said:
Pumps have seals, run them dry and they will fail. I can see how air could get sucked in on its side with the reservoir if not absolutely topped off.
Click to expand...

I take it you've never disassembled a magnetic aquarium pump before? I had one run dry 24/7 for days without damage (though I would NOT recommend it as a practice).

The only way it would run DRY is if the reservoir was empty. But as long as the water is above the red dot (centerline of the reservoir), there will be enough water to pump thru the system. Which is only slightly above half-full, which I am sure NO ONE runs their reservoir around half full. I keep my water level about where the return line is plumbed in.
 
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PasadenaMike said:
This Post filter that’s worked for me. I had to double up on the burst disc it kept blowing at 300 bar.


After a while you can empty the contents of the cartridge and replace with this


I have yet to see color change using my Omega Trail which is basically a gxcs4
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I ordered that filter, but the gold version. I am returning it because it appears the air flow around the filter and not through it. Must be poor tolerances and/or bad orings. I may try another brand.

Also my GX CS4 stopped running (went from start to off) at 1500 psi while filling the tank. It was pretty hot in the garage and overheating may explain it. Is it normal for the moisture out of the bleed line to be opaque/milky?
 
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olafberzerk said:
I ordered that filter, but the gold version. I am returning it because it appears the air flow around the filter and not through it. Must be poor tolerances and/or bad orings. I may try another brand.

Also my GX CS4 stopped running (went from start to off) at 1500 psi while filling the tank. It was pretty hot in the garage and overheating may explain it. Is it normal for the moisture out of the bleed line to be opaque/milky?
Click to expand...
Oh man it’s like everything went wrong. I just get clear liquid from the bleed
 
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