GX CS4 I - New compresor from Alibaba with INTERNAL POWER SUPPLY - DASH I

Curious how many amps does one of these draw on 110?
I have a 110 outlet in back of SUV that I think supports 5 amps.
Would be nice to not have to pop hood and have compressor setting out in the weather while filling.
Here's your answer, @Bosshoss:

PS alone - .17A/10.4W
Pump & Fan - .65A/47.8W
Pumping @ start - 3.68A/297.6W
Pumping @ 200 bar - 5.98A/450W

So in short, no, your SUV inverter cannot handle the load. You'd need at LEAST a 1000W inverter to make it work, and I'd recommend at LEAST 1200-2000W.

And even at that, you'd still have to run the vehicle to support those loads.
 
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Yeah, I agree. 150w is only 1.36A.

My truck has a 400W bed inverter (3.6A), so it might work, though it would be pushing the limit.

Personally, I'd say one would be better off just hooking up directly to the battery and run the truck while pumping.

You have a Tacoma? Mine says 400w as well but I’m not sure it’s actually capable of that. I couldn’t even run a 2gal pancake compressor

Here's your answer, @Bosshoss:

PS alone - .17A/10.4W
Pump & Fan - .65A/47.8W
Pumping @ start - 3.68A/297.6W
Pumping @ 200 bar - 5.98A/450W

So in short, no, your SUV inverter cannot handle the load. You'd need at LEAST a 1000W inverter to make it work, and I'd recommend at LEASE 1200-2000W.

And even at that, you'd still have to run the vehicle to support those loads.
The numbers you have @ 200 bar seems really high. Did you take measurements on the primary with a clamp meter and line spliter?
 
The numbers you have @ 200 bar seems really high. Did you take measurements on the primary with a clamp meter and line spliter?
No, I was measuring AC amps using a power meter plug-in.


Tried measuring DC amps via splitting the line (without the PS), but as soon as I turned the compressor on (zero PSI), it hit 15A, and my meter is only rated for 10A, so I killed it.
 
No, I was measuring AC amps using a power meter plug-in.


Tried measuring DC amps via splitting the line (without the PS), but as soon as I turned the compressor on (zero PSI), it hit 15A, and my meter is only rated for 10A, so I killed it.
Yeah, most digital multi meters top out @ 10A. The fuse will blow. Either that meter your using is way off, or your compressor is working harder then it should. I got a maximum of 3.5A on the primary using a Fluke 337 and line spliter. This was @ 300 ish bar. Of course this is at the top of the compression stoke. It will very though depending of the health of the pump.
 
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I doubt others will have this but I have a couple Milwaukee 120V battery packs. They weigh about 50 lbs. They will supply 1500W. I have started and run my Yong Heng with one of them - just to see if I could. The Yong Heng pulls more than 1500W at startup, I believe, but it worked. I keep one of my battery packs plugged into a one circuit transfer switch to power my refrigerator and a few other important loads when I loose power. It will run things for a few hours.
 
Yeah, most digital multi meters top out @ 10A. The fuse will blow. Either that meter your using is way off, or your compressor is working harder then it should. I got a maximum of 3.5A on the primary using a Fluke 337 and line spliter. This was @ 300 ish bar. Of course this is at the top of the compression stoke. It will very though depending of the health of the pump.
Won't some of the load go thru the neutral line, even with a splitter? (Never used one, so not familiar with how well they work at isolating current). Pretty sure the plug-in gizmo is pretty accurate. And it, too is relatively new.

My CS4 is brand new (4.2 hours, to be exact).
 
Won't some of the load go thru the neutral line, even with a splitter? (Never used one, so not familiar with how well they work at isolating current). Pretty sure the plug-in gizmo is pretty accurate. And it, too is relatively new.

My CS4 is brand new (4.2 hours, to be exact).
For 120V, the same amount of current goes through the neutral as the hot conductor. I trust my equipment and use it daily. Can't trust those cheap gadgets on Amazon.
 
For 120V, the same amount of current goes through the neutral as the hot conductor. I trust my equipment and use it daily. Can't trust those cheap gadgets on Amazon.
Oh heck yeah, I'd trust a Fluke over that little gizmo any day. Too bad you're so far away. Would love to have you test mine out. But not willing to part with another $3-500 just for a meter I'd only need once.

How does the splitter work? You just plug it in, turn on the device, then measure the current in the loops with the current clamp?
 
Oh heck yeah, I'd trust a Fluke over that little gizmo any day. Too bad you're so far away. Would love to have you test mine out. But not willing to part with another $3-500 just for a meter I'd only need once.

How does the splitter work? You just plug it in, turn on the device, then measure the current in the loops with the current clamp?
Very accurate, plug the splitter into the receptacle and then plug the equipment into that. Has provisions for a clamp meter.