No, I have a Ridgeline. But yeah, that 400w is a MAX rating, not a running rating.You have a Tacoma? Mine says 400w as well but I’m not sure it’s actually capable of that. I couldn’t even run a 2gal pancake compressor
Upvote 0
No, I have a Ridgeline. But yeah, that 400w is a MAX rating, not a running rating.You have a Tacoma? Mine says 400w as well but I’m not sure it’s actually capable of that. I couldn’t even run a 2gal pancake compressor
Here's your answer, @Bosshoss:Curious how many amps does one of these draw on 110?
I have a 110 outlet in back of SUV that I think supports 5 amps.
Would be nice to not have to pop hood and have compressor setting out in the weather while filling.
Yeah, I agree. 150w is only 1.36A.
My truck has a 400W bed inverter (3.6A), so it might work, though it would be pushing the limit.
Personally, I'd say one would be better off just hooking up directly to the battery and run the truck while pumping.
You have a Tacoma? Mine says 400w as well but I’m not sure it’s actually capable of that. I couldn’t even run a 2gal pancake compressor
The numbers you have @ 200 bar seems really high. Did you take measurements on the primary with a clamp meter and line spliter?Here's your answer, @Bosshoss:
PS alone - .17A/10.4W
Pump & Fan - .65A/47.8W
Pumping @ start - 3.68A/297.6W
Pumping @ 200 bar - 5.98A/450W
So in short, no, your SUV inverter cannot handle the load. You'd need at LEAST a 1000W inverter to make it work, and I'd recommend at LEASE 1200-2000W.
And even at that, you'd still have to run the vehicle to support those loads.
No, I was measuring AC amps using a power meter plug-in.The numbers you have @ 200 bar seems really high. Did you take measurements on the primary with a clamp meter and line spliter?
Yeah, most digital multi meters top out @ 10A. The fuse will blow. Either that meter your using is way off, or your compressor is working harder then it should. I got a maximum of 3.5A on the primary using a Fluke 337 and line spliter. This was @ 300 ish bar. Of course this is at the top of the compression stoke. It will very though depending of the health of the pump.No, I was measuring AC amps using a power meter plug-in.
Tried measuring DC amps via splitting the line (without the PS), but as soon as I turned the compressor on (zero PSI), it hit 15A, and my meter is only rated for 10A, so I killed it.
Won't some of the load go thru the neutral line, even with a splitter? (Never used one, so not familiar with how well they work at isolating current). Pretty sure the plug-in gizmo is pretty accurate. And it, too is relatively new.Yeah, most digital multi meters top out @ 10A. The fuse will blow. Either that meter your using is way off, or your compressor is working harder then it should. I got a maximum of 3.5A on the primary using a Fluke 337 and line spliter. This was @ 300 ish bar. Of course this is at the top of the compression stoke. It will very though depending of the health of the pump.
MANY here have topped off big tanks (6 & 9L) with a CS4. Takes about an hour from 240-310 bar for my 9L. Your time should be shorter for a 6L.I just order a CS4-I.
Have any one try to top of a 6.8L tank?
The idea is to top of from 250-ish to 310 bar
For 120V, the same amount of current goes through the neutral as the hot conductor. I trust my equipment and use it daily. Can't trust those cheap gadgets on Amazon.Won't some of the load go thru the neutral line, even with a splitter? (Never used one, so not familiar with how well they work at isolating current). Pretty sure the plug-in gizmo is pretty accurate. And it, too is relatively new.
My CS4 is brand new (4.2 hours, to be exact).
Oh heck yeah, I'd trust a Fluke over that little gizmo any day. Too bad you're so far away. Would love to have you test mine out. But not willing to part with another $3-500 just for a meter I'd only need once.For 120V, the same amount of current goes through the neutral as the hot conductor. I trust my equipment and use it daily. Can't trust those cheap gadgets on Amazon.
That's what I use it for. Topping of my 97cfMANY here have topped off big tanks (6 & 9L) with a CS4. Takes about an hour from 240-310 bar for my 9L. Your time should be shorter for a 6L.
Very accurate, plug the splitter into the receptacle and then plug the equipment into that. Has provisions for a clamp meter.Oh heck yeah, I'd trust a Fluke over that little gizmo any day. Too bad you're so far away. Would love to have you test mine out. But not willing to part with another $3-500 just for a meter I'd only need once.
How does the splitter work? You just plug it in, turn on the device, then measure the current in the loops with the current clamp?
Why use a splitter vs just clamping the wire itself? To isolate each leg?Very accurate, plug the splitter into the receptacle and then plug the equipment into that. Has provisions for a clamp meter.
It's used for equipment that has your standard cord and plug. That way you don't have to open up the equipment etc. Very handy.Why use a splitter vs just clamping the wire itself? To isolate each leg?
Using a clamp meter, you can't just clamp around the whole cord, only either the hot or neutral at a time.Why use a splitter vs just clamping the wire itself? To isolate each leg?
So yes, to isolate.Why use a splitter vs just clamping the wire itself? To isolate each leg?
Correct, cancels each other out.No worries buddy. I thought that was the case, appreciate you confirming it.
What happens if you clamp both legs at once? Zeroes out the amperage?