GX CS4
- Thread starter Gutterguy
- Start date
I personally found that the clicking sound I was experiencing seemed to be due to overlubrication. I disassembled the pump and wiped down the excess and the clicking noise went away. Bear in mind that this was just my own experience dealing with a single pump however.
My pump also developed a high pitched squeal at one point and that turned out to be caused by a dry bearing on the crankshaft. Those bearing are fairly easily accessed, but they need to be manually lubricated as they receive no grease from the grease pot feed. I used moly grease on those as they are not pressurized or part of the air supply.
One of the tricks I use to try and locate the source of noises is to hold a long screwdriver against various parts of the pump and then to put the end of the handle to my ear. Basicqlly a hillbilly stethoscope.
My pump also developed a high pitched squeal at one point and that turned out to be caused by a dry bearing on the crankshaft. Those bearing are fairly easily accessed, but they need to be manually lubricated as they receive no grease from the grease pot feed. I used moly grease on those as they are not pressurized or part of the air supply.
One of the tricks I use to try and locate the source of noises is to hold a long screwdriver against various parts of the pump and then to put the end of the handle to my ear. Basicqlly a hillbilly stethoscope.
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Hey guy do you think a Cs-4 will work for me to top off the biggest SCBA tank made Scott 5.5 I forget like 90 min or something... I have a aqua environmental external regulator to 6000 psi for my big bore...I've put 7 pistons in my yong heng in 3 years...I realize the cs-4 isn't the biggest fastest unit...I'm comfortable using my yong heng to fill.the big Scott to 300 bar...pretty fast 10 min....Then hook up the cs4 and finish filling. To 5500 psi... I guess buy new from GX official site $509.00 or something... Any input.... Not many options for filling 5500 psi Scott 5.5 tanks....
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Make sure your fittings are rated for it. Most have a max working pressure of 4500 but have a failing point way beyond that. You take the risk past that...
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First of all, 6 X 1/4 turns = 1.5 turns, and that is too much grease according to GX Official.
Also, the piston doesn't "suck the grease in" until the grease is pushed thru the hole by the grease knob. (Unless you allow the grease to get so hot it melts, of course.) As long as you don't turn the knob, the grease just sits in the pot, never moving on its own. The biggest issue I see with the process is that apparently a large percentage of the CS4s ship with a large air gap in the pot, which means that turning the knob does nothing for a while. With my two machines, I had to turn the knobs about 10-13 times just to get the grease level with the outer rim of the pot.
If you only fill the pot with 1 "dose" of grease (turn the knob until the piston is flush with the outer rim, then fill the space with grease and level it off as you stated) then you are certainly getting the right amount of grease, but that means you have to repeat this process every 6-10 hours (depending on how often you turn the knob). Why not just dial the knob out (leaving a bigger cavity), filling it with grease until it is level, then back the knob back one more turn (to give space for the rubber diaphragm, preventing grease from being forced in when re-installing the pot), and not having to take the pot out again for the next 4-5 years?
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Theoretically you COULD, but I wouldn't recommend it, and I certainly wouldn't do it until I talked to Jason if I had my mind set on trying it. 5800 psi / 400 bar is the MAX pressure, not the working pressure. You'd have to replace the burst disc for one thing.
From their CS4 description:
- This CS4 compressor supports the max design pressure 5800psi/400bar, but it does not mean you can fill the max pressure anytime. Almost all pcp tanks and bottles only support 4500psi/300bar as the service pressure to avoid the safety problem, although they state the burst pressure can be over 50mpa/500bar. As a result, the burst disc coming with compressor only support the 350bar as the burst pressure. If you fill over 350bar, it will be blown. If you really need the higher pressure, pls contact with us to buy 400bar burst discs.
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They sell 400 bar burst disk...They advertise 5800 psi? My tanks designed for 5500 psi fills....Regulator fittings and good to 6000 psi... If it won't fill 5500 psi tanks.it shouldn't be advertised as 5800 psi... The new industry standard for scba tanks is 5500 psi...The fireman have been using Scott 5.5 tanks and aqua environmental regulators...The 5.5 tanks are more expensive. Than the 4500 psi ones most people have...
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What kind and or brand of grease are you fellows putting in your grease pot? I've read somewhere it's "food grade" but have no idea why.
And when you get the required hours on your CS4 to turn the grease knob, how do you know you've put in enough? Do you turn the knob while the compressor is running? Under pressure? Or just pumping with the relief valve open? Does the sound of the compressor really change a good bit when you hear the grease going in?
Thx
Ray
And when you get the required hours on your CS4 to turn the grease knob, how do you know you've put in enough? Do you turn the knob while the compressor is running? Under pressure? Or just pumping with the relief valve open? Does the sound of the compressor really change a good bit when you hear the grease going in?
Thx
Ray
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This is what I use.
www.penntoolco.com It was expensive and half of the expense was shipping, but I am unaware of any cheaper options.
Renewable Lubricants 14 oz Cartridge Biobased Extreme Pressure Grease White, Extreme Pressure, Food Grade & High Temperature, 590°F Max Temp, NLGIG 2, 87501 - 62681663
Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
www.penntoolco.com Upvote 0
I went with something similar, but in a NLGI 0 weight. Over 50 ships free, so I grabbed a few other things.
renewablelube.com
Bio-Food Grade E.P. Grease
Renewable Lubricants manufactures high performance, environmentally friendly lubricants and greases that directly replace conventional petroleum products.
renewablelube.com Upvote 0
It's $15.00 plus shipping for 5 400 bar burst disks from their website. A little pricey but if it works right?
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Wow, $36 bucks for 8 oz. That seems a bit steep.I went with something similar, but in a NLGI 0 weight. Over 50 ships free, so I grabbed a few other things.
Bio-Food Grade E.P. Grease
Renewable Lubricants manufactures high performance, environmentally friendly lubricants and greases that directly replace conventional petroleum products.
View attachment 484436
Thx
Ray
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GX says after the grease pot runs out, no further lube is necessary. But I will probably keep lubing mine.
Anything that is food safe is safe for your compressor. Do NOT use petroleum-based grease.
Anything that is food safe is safe for your compressor. Do NOT use petroleum-based grease.
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All this talk about the kind of grease. I'm curious to know just where does the grease end up? If you aren't forcing it into the top of the compressor when you turn the pot screw how does it get "sucked" into it without it sucking ALL the grease into it at one time? Folks say the grease never gets down to the bottom around the crank or rod so I'm assuming that would need to be greased by hand? Which would require taking it apart.
Thx
Ray
Thx
Ray
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