Hajimoto Review of the Umarex Gauntlet 2
- Thread starter Hajimoto
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Hi Hajimoto I missed this reply! I need to check the notification box from now on.
Hey there .20calguy!
No sweat about the delay in responding, shuff happens
I took the liberty of paring down the QUOTE content to minimize the overall length of this reply and ultimately the thread post length.
Because I have also been following your other conversation I have a very good idea of what is going on and can assist you in your quest to have that Gauntlet 2 ingest Crosman Premiers better as well as develop more power.
First, I think it would be beneficial to discuss the obvious which will help set the stage for a path to resolution.
The G2 was designed as a high-power hunter made to sling heavier pellets very accurately. The rifle out of the box has no way to adjust the power down to handle something like a 14.3gr Crosman. As I demonstrated in my Complete Review of the Gauntlet 2 in .22 caliber, accuracy for the Gauntlet 2 doesn't start to shine until you get that speed below 900fps. The Gauntlets all have a 1:20 twist rate and produce the tightest groups when the projectile is traveling somewhere between 850 to 900 FPS. It has been my experience that 880 FPS produces the most common favorable results in the Gauntlet 1 or 2. In my review, the JSB 18.13gr projectiles were traveling at an average of 995 FPS and the JSB 25.39's averaged 891 FPS. In my opinion, the groups got better with the heavier ammo because again we started to get that rate of travel below 900 feet per second. I am willing to bet you are driving those Crosman premiers somewhere around 1050 FPS. The high rate of travel combined with the hard lead are causing issues.
In your case, you have two things against you.
- Crosman is one of the hardest lead pellets on the market today.
- Crosman Priemers only weigh 14.30gr.
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Because of the harder lead, the pellet to lead in interface is much more difficult. The elevated force required has the potential for the rifling to carve the lead in a nonconcentric way which would impart grooves on obscure angles that ultimately will cause the projectile to fly unpredictably.
So there is one thing you can do right out of the gate to improve your experience. Get softer lead 25gr+ pellets like JSB, Air Arms or FX pellets around the 25 to 26gr range. These will chamber easier and be far more accurate.
If you have your heart set on Crosman Pellets, you will need to slow the rifle down and have some barrel work done to stretch out and soften the lead in.
Slowing the G2 down.
1) Reducing the amount of stored energy in the hammer spring.
- Lighter or modified hammer spring. Removing one half a coil at a time until you reach the desired feet per second.
- Introduction of an adjuster to allow varying amounts of hammer preload on a shorter spring.
2) Modifying the operating pressure of the Gauntlet.
- This method is a bit more complex because it requires a simultaneous and harmonious adjustment of hammer energy to achieve favorable results.
Barrel Correction for Crosman Pellets.
1) Send the barrel to a smith for modification to allow better chambering of the Crosman Pellets.
- The depth of the lead in would be deepened to allow chambering to happen at the last 10% of the loading execution
- The lead in would be better tapered and polished for smoother chambering of the round.
2) Self modify using tried and true methods which require the barrel to be removed from the rifle and soft jaw clamp it in a vice.
- Using a wooden dowel that is close to the bore size. Sharpen like a pencil. Slit the sharpened pencil end through its center along its length. The split will provide a slot to introduce fine sandpapers (1000, 1200, 3000 and 5000 grit respectively) that can be used to soften the lead in and allow easier chambering. Chuck the dowel in a cordless drill motor and through the breech you introduce the tapered dowel and 1000 grit assembly to the lead in and slowly work the shoulder to a better transition.
- Using fine tapered Dremel stones which can be ground on a bench grinder to achieve the size required (within reason). The Dremel motor is very fast and needs to be run in the slowest RPM mode for initial grinding and tapering to allow minimal material removal. Dremel stones are relatively rough and even the finest Dremel stone will be too coarse for finish work and polishing but can effectively be used to remove the bulk of the material. Using finer papers and polishing methods to super polish the lead in and chambering area can be achieved if you work in baby steps. Yes, it will take a long time but once you have the experience you can work much faster the next time around.
- Using diamond dust files and rasps and general jewelers tools work through the breech to file down and soften the rather abrupt lead in transition. Polish and soften edges with wool Dremel bits and polishing compound.
3) Wear the lead in down by repeated loading and shooting of the Crosman Premiers. The parts will wear in and soften with time, again in time. If you are patient, this method gives you a necessary excuse for loads of trigger time
we are talking 1000's of rounds but hey someone has to do it, right?
I hope this helps you as well as anyone else facing these same issues.
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Hello Hajimoto,
Thanks for this information for the Gauntlet 2, owners out here, myself included. I have been studying this subject in great detail. I have been trying to get some heavier pellets, but they’re a bit scarce. I got some JSB 18.13’s, and they shot about an inch and a half, at fifty yards. Averaging 977 fps. I also have some Barracuda Match 21.14’s, they were tougher material, like the Crosman’s with really hard bolt closing, and worse accuracy. They averaged 930 fps. I’m still waiting on the 25.39’s, for testing.
I heard you mention, that some people can find an ammo that works, and live with that ammo, and be done, and I could be that guy, if the ammo were available. I use H&N match R10’s 7 gr in my pistols, because they just work. They’re not the cheapest, but I have shot aspirin at 75’ with them. The guns range is only supposed to be 10 meters. (Scope Shims) Lol.
Being able to adjust to the available ammo, would be excellent, these days. An adjustable G2, would also be a great enhancement, in the quest for accuracy.
In the event that I pulled that barrel off for work, would the O rings be available locally? In my mind I envisioned chucking the barrel in the drill press, with a jig, made with three model airplane wheels, supporting the other end from spin out. Then doing the tooling with that set up. I thought symmetry would be best with the barrel turning rather than the tool. Then I think, which is harder, doing it, or raising the money to have it done right? Lol
Have you set a G2, up to run slugs yet?
thanks Hajimoto
Thanks for this information for the Gauntlet 2, owners out here, myself included. I have been studying this subject in great detail. I have been trying to get some heavier pellets, but they’re a bit scarce. I got some JSB 18.13’s, and they shot about an inch and a half, at fifty yards. Averaging 977 fps. I also have some Barracuda Match 21.14’s, they were tougher material, like the Crosman’s with really hard bolt closing, and worse accuracy. They averaged 930 fps. I’m still waiting on the 25.39’s, for testing.
I heard you mention, that some people can find an ammo that works, and live with that ammo, and be done, and I could be that guy, if the ammo were available. I use H&N match R10’s 7 gr in my pistols, because they just work. They’re not the cheapest, but I have shot aspirin at 75’ with them. The guns range is only supposed to be 10 meters. (Scope Shims) Lol.
Being able to adjust to the available ammo, would be excellent, these days. An adjustable G2, would also be a great enhancement, in the quest for accuracy.
In the event that I pulled that barrel off for work, would the O rings be available locally? In my mind I envisioned chucking the barrel in the drill press, with a jig, made with three model airplane wheels, supporting the other end from spin out. Then doing the tooling with that set up. I thought symmetry would be best with the barrel turning rather than the tool. Then I think, which is harder, doing it, or raising the money to have it done right? Lol
Have you set a G2, up to run slugs yet?
thanks Hajimoto
Upvote 0
.20calguy,
Please understand that my answers are normally scaled to fit the everyday air gunner and things like mills or lathes are assumed to be tools of the enthusiast or professional who really wouldn't be the target audience for my suggestions. As I explained to another user in a previous post, concentricity is critical but it can be achieved without mills, drill press or a lathe. When I perform barrel work, for instance, it is all performed on a lathe and using custom reams but for me to tell folks that can come across as a bit pompous and unrealistic. I agree with you, the age-old challenge of priority and value management of Time or Money certainly holds true here.
Barrel o-ring
Sizing for the Gauntlet is as follows and local availability is something pretty subjective but at least you will have the sizing to find out.
OD 11mm
ID 8mm
CS 1.5mm
Slug slinging with a G2
It has been my experience with the G2 just as with the G1 that the .22 just doesn't do well with slugs but the .25 does. I think the poor .22 caliber performance has to do with the geometry of the smaller slug. I had given up after testing over 30 different .22 caliber slugs. I figured I would let the 100's of other G2 shooters see what they could find. To date, I have not seen any Sub MOA or even MOA results at 100 yards with the .22. To be clear, MOA at 100 is what I consider to be acceptable for slugs and my experience with the .22 was 2 to 3 MOA at 100 at best. I had much greater success with the .25 caliber.
Be well my friend
Please understand that my answers are normally scaled to fit the everyday air gunner and things like mills or lathes are assumed to be tools of the enthusiast or professional who really wouldn't be the target audience for my suggestions. As I explained to another user in a previous post, concentricity is critical but it can be achieved without mills, drill press or a lathe. When I perform barrel work, for instance, it is all performed on a lathe and using custom reams but for me to tell folks that can come across as a bit pompous and unrealistic. I agree with you, the age-old challenge of priority and value management of Time or Money certainly holds true here.
Barrel o-ring
Sizing for the Gauntlet is as follows and local availability is something pretty subjective but at least you will have the sizing to find out.
OD 11mm
ID 8mm
CS 1.5mm
Slug slinging with a G2
It has been my experience with the G2 just as with the G1 that the .22 just doesn't do well with slugs but the .25 does. I think the poor .22 caliber performance has to do with the geometry of the smaller slug. I had given up after testing over 30 different .22 caliber slugs. I figured I would let the 100's of other G2 shooters see what they could find. To date, I have not seen any Sub MOA or even MOA results at 100 yards with the .22. To be clear, MOA at 100 is what I consider to be acceptable for slugs and my experience with the .22 was 2 to 3 MOA at 100 at best. I had much greater success with the .25 caliber.
Be well my friend
Upvote 0
Hi Hajimoto,
Regarding the nick in my air reservoir, it turns out that the gun had been dropped here. When I looked where it happened there were two nicks in the flooring. I went and grabbed the rifle, and test fit it. One nick fit the muzzle, and the other the air reservoir. I never noticed the damage until after I got it back! So I owe Umerex an apology! I wanted to make it public!
Regarding the nick in my air reservoir, it turns out that the gun had been dropped here. When I looked where it happened there were two nicks in the flooring. I went and grabbed the rifle, and test fit it. One nick fit the muzzle, and the other the air reservoir. I never noticed the damage until after I got it back! So I owe Umerex an apology! I wanted to make it public!
Upvote 0
Hi,
How about a video on how to cure a stuck magazine/pellet combo?
The G2 is a great shooter but recently I loaded a pellet and now its stuck. Cannot advance the bolt or remove the magazine, basically rendering the gun useless. Any ideas?
How about a video on how to cure a stuck magazine/pellet combo?
The G2 is a great shooter but recently I loaded a pellet and now its stuck. Cannot advance the bolt or remove the magazine, basically rendering the gun useless. Any ideas?
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Do you have a cleaning rod?
perhaps you could push the pellet back into the mag, if it hasn’t rotated?
Was the pellet backwards? How did it get stuck?
perhaps you could push the pellet back into the mag, if it hasn’t rotated?
Was the pellet backwards? How did it get stuck?
Upvote 0