Half breed gets a oil change.
- Thread starter willy
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Silly question, what makes it a half breed?
I just purchased on that ended up being a clone with a single plastic ring at the top of the high pressure side. I don't think it will last very long, but I only have 2 minutes on it at this point, That sucker gets hot quick 10 degrees in 2 minutes. I haven't tried to fill anything yet, but it's coming soon.
Smitty
I just purchased on that ended up being a clone with a single plastic ring at the top of the high pressure side. I don't think it will last very long, but I only have 2 minutes on it at this point, That sucker gets hot quick 10 degrees in 2 minutes. I haven't tried to fill anything yet, but it's coming soon.
Smitty
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My first oil change in my air venturi compressor was about an hour or two of run time. The oil was nasty and stanky. I think because of whatever oil was in it to prevent rusting while in transit overseas. Then i used synthetic for another 8 or so hours and changed it again. Wasnt quite as bad. And then i just changed it again with royal purple and the oil looked and smelled better. I would rather change it at earlier intervals. Those little motors are under a lot of stress.
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Willy, it has been posted on this forum many times that hydraulic oil turns dark very quickly and is not a preferred lubricant for a high pressure compressor. The Chinglish owners manuals may suggest it, but hydraulic oil doesn't last nearly as long as a high quality ISO 100 or 150 compressor oil. I don't use hydraulic oil but suspect it contains petroleum components which burn, darken, and leave deposits from the heat of these compressors. It is preferable to pay for a quality full synthetic compressor oil than have to change oil more frequently and deal with the carbon deposits and damage caused by using hydraulic oil.
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Willy I just got the twin version, I use Royal Purple and had to change it after an hour. The new oil looks good @ 2hrs but I'm going to change it again at 2.5. I've had a lot of exterior quality control issues. Replacements parts are on a "slow boat from China"......... I don't even own a boat but I may have a $400.00 anchor!
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Willy I just got the twin version, I use Royal Purple and had to change it after an hour. The new oil looks good @ 2nrs but I'm going to change it again at 2.5. I've had a lot of exterior quality control issues. Replacements parts are on a "slow boat from China" I don't even own a boat? but I may have an anchor!
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I have asked the customer service people of the Yong Heng official on-line shop in China about the issue of oil darkening quickly and what oil is the best for their compressors . The answer is that the recommended hydraulic oil is OK and the darkening is due to "ash" dropping down from the 1st stage cylinder which is made of cast iron. The darkening will go away after the compressor is broken in and oil change is done for a few times. Does the ash explanation make any sense ?
I did the first oil change ( with #46 hydraulic oil ) after the first 10 min. of running. Then ran it for another 15 min, all under normal load, the hydraulic oil got quite dark already and I changed oil again but switched to #100 compressor oil this time. It's just cheap stuff from China costing about 5 USD per liter . Since then it has accumulated an additional 35 mins of run time and the oil is just slightly darkened. Apparently it's getting better. Not sure if it is because of the change of oil type or the compressor has broken in more.
I did the first oil change ( with #46 hydraulic oil ) after the first 10 min. of running. Then ran it for another 15 min, all under normal load, the hydraulic oil got quite dark already and I changed oil again but switched to #100 compressor oil this time. It's just cheap stuff from China costing about 5 USD per liter . Since then it has accumulated an additional 35 mins of run time and the oil is just slightly darkened. Apparently it's getting better. Not sure if it is because of the change of oil type or the compressor has broken in more.
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i dont use the recomenden 46 it gets to quick dark...i try different motor oils 10-30w...5-50w...and 10-40w....the 10-40w stays a longest clean after 2-3houer it Looks fine no dirt or dark in it.
just look that the teperature dont go to much or to Long above 50C and dont shut off compressor in full load and all will be fine
just look that the teperature dont go to much or to Long above 50C and dont shut off compressor in full load and all will be fine
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I read with interest that the manufacturers recommend Hydraulic oil.Is there something lost in translation? I'm not sure because they are specific about about the grade as well.
Since the oil in a compressor is only needed to lubricate the crankcase,and not used to power a tool(as in a hydraulic ram or motor)there is no need for an oil with low compressorbility(If that is a word).I think a dedicated compressor oil or at least a high SAE engine oil is more suitable. Hydraulic oil is not as tolerant to excessively high temperature as would be generated by a small engine crank,hence it going dark quickly or burning.That is no combustion process in these compressors,so no carbon to to foul the oil.
Since the oil in a compressor is only needed to lubricate the crankcase,and not used to power a tool(as in a hydraulic ram or motor)there is no need for an oil with low compressorbility(If that is a word).I think a dedicated compressor oil or at least a high SAE engine oil is more suitable. Hydraulic oil is not as tolerant to excessively high temperature as would be generated by a small engine crank,hence it going dark quickly or burning.That is no combustion process in these compressors,so no carbon to to foul the oil.
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There has also been report that Yong Heng fed with auto transmission oil has been running without any problem for 2 years. Some posters have also reported using motor oil with good success so I believe the compressor is not that as picky as what we may think when it comes to oil.
The widely reported issue of hydrualic oil darkening quickly can be due to the compressor not full broken in. I still have got half a liter of #46 hydraulic oil. Dont want to waste it although it's very cheap. Will try them again after the compressor has accumulated 2 ~ 3 hours of running. Now I am using #100 compressor oil.
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Auto trans fluid makes sense,as it can maintain performance at relatively high temperature.Has anyone been curious enough to check the oil temperature of their compressor at any time of operation. Water temp and head temperature are what concerns most users but I'm interested to see what the oil gets to.
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