Tuning Has Anyone Done a "Trigger Job" on the A V Avenger?

[my87csx481]

I received my second Avenger yesterday....so I have a bit more to add now.

My goal was similar to the OP's: to move the trigger back some (as well as the obvious: reduce/eliminate the horrible creep). So I did replace the front screw with a longer one. I tightened this screw until the trigger almost touched the safety mechanism. Then I followed the OP's instructions (kinda' sorta')....but I think I remember reading in the manual to NOT dry fire the gun when empty. At some point before testing, cocking, and firing, I filled mine with air. I found that tightening the rear screw too much will prevent the hammer from cocking/engaging the sear. So I found that point, and then backed it out around a half a turn. Then locked it in (with a nut). Then verified that the safety still worked, hammer cocked, and no misfires when coming off of safe, and no misfires when jarring the butt with a rubber mallet, and minimal to no creep.

I'm thinking I could get the trigger further back by either modifying the boss on the trigger that engages the set screw in the safety mechanism, or just shorten that set screw. But I didn't go that far with it...yet. Need to shoot the thing for a bit first.

Oh....and you can only back out the pull weight/pressure screw so much, and then it doesn't reduce trigger pull weight anymore. There's a washer inbetween the screw and the spring. The washer ends up bottoming out on the trigger. At some point I plan to find/test lighter springs....maybe.

Once you pull out the trigger pivot pin, and then the trigger, this will all make a lot more sense.

 

[d-cuttler]

I received my second Avenger yesterday....so I have a bit more to add now.

My goal was similar to the OP's: to move the trigger back some (as well as the obvious: reduce/eliminate the horrible creep). So I did replace the front screw with a longer one. I tightened this screw until the trigger almost touched the safety mechanism. Then I followed the OP's instructions (kinda' sorta')....but I think I remember reading in the manual to NOT dry fire the gun when empty. At some point before testing, cocking, and firing, I filled mine with air. I found that tightening the rear screw too much will prevent the hammer from cocking/engaging the sear. So I found that point, and then backed it out around a half a turn. Then locked it in (with a nut). Then verified that the safety still worked, hammer cocked, and no misfires when coming off of safe, and no misfires when jarring the butt with a rubber mallet, and minimal to no creep.

I'm thinking I could get the trigger further back by either modifying the boss on the trigger that engages the set screw in the safety mechanism, or just shorten that set screw. But I didn't go that far with it...yet. Need to shoot the thing for a bit first.

Oh....and you can only back out the pull weight/pressure screw so much, and then it doesn't reduce trigger pull weight anymore. There's a washer inbetween the screw and the spring. The washer ends up bottoming out on the trigger. At some point I plan to find/test lighter springs....maybe.

Once you pull out the trigger pivot pin, and then the trigger, this will all make a lot more sense.

You can play with the trigger weight screw all you want, but there is another spring buried way deep in the assembly that needs to be replaced or maybe have a turn cut off, making the range of the trigger weight screw effective. Then all of the other adjustments should result in a nice lite smooth breaking trigger.

At the time I worked on mine, I didn't have the courage to disassemble the trigger enough to get to it.

I just looked at the parts diagram, and the sear spring, part # 000P2-159-W-00 needs to be lighter. 

 

[Booder98]

I replaced the rearmost screw with a 12mm screw in the rear, and the original 10mm in the front. The trigger is lighter, and passed the bump test, but the safety no longer engages. It's no big deal - I usually leave it open with the magazine removed if I want it safe. But if there's a trick to get the safety back, I will do it.

I noticed that the original 10mm screws were fastened with blue loctite.

 

[Booder98]

I had some 16mm screws, and I ground one down to 14mm according to my calibrated eyeball. I replaced the 12mm with it. As seen upthread, the gun now has a single stage with very little creep and a much lighter break that is still safe. I'm not thrilled about not having the safety.

 

[JimD]

I said this over on gateway to airguns but for those who do not visit both, you definitely need to check the safety after changing the sear screw (I did not for several months) and if it does not prevent firing, there is a pin in the safety with a 1.5mm hex head you can extend to get the safety working. You have to push the pin holding the trigger group in out and remove those parts to get to the safety screw. I had to turn mine out close to 2 turns and mess with it awhile before I got it working but it was very much worth doing.

 

[Sleeper192]

DesertSilver, where did you get your ball set screws, and what were the specs on them?

Thanks

Sleeper

 

[wellston73]

This is my first post.

Use this information at your own risk since it deals with the trigger.

I did a trigger modification on my Avenger in early 2021 to have an adjustable sear engagement, functional safety, lighter trigger and a trigger stop. On my gun with the factory springs it ended up with a no creep 10 oz trigger and could be adjusted a little heavier. When I replaced the sear spring with part of a ball point pen spring and the trigger spring with a lighter spring it ended up with a 6 oz trigger that could be adjusted a little heavier. Be sure to check that the sear is not adjusted to light by bumping the end of stock on something solid. I also hit the sides of the stock around the trigger area with my hand to check for a side blow.

Make sure the gun is unloaded. I used 3 mm set screws and 3 are required. They only need to be about 1/4 of an inch long. A longer screw for the safety may be required.

I made a slot in the sides of the plastic trigger block between the trigger and the trigger iron (000P2-080-W-00) to hold a small narrow piece of flat steel. I used .125 thick seemed to have enough meat to hold the set screw. In this steel I drilled and tapped it in the center to hold an adjustment set screw for the trigger iron. This adjusted the sear engagement. The top of the adjustment screw will also function as a trigger stop.

After I drilled and tapped the flat steel piece it was installed in the slot I made in the trigger block the adjustment screw can be installed. Be sure to coat the threads of this set screw with a thread locker that remains gummy to hold the screw so it can be adjusted. I then drilled 2 holes in the sides of the trigger block to run 2 set screws in to hold the flat steel in place. Leave the flat steel in place with the set screw centered on the trigger iron. You drill the holes in the sides of trigger block drill until you hit the flat steel then continue just a little to dimple the steel. This will position the set screws. I screwed the set screws into the plastic holes without tapping them but you can tap to make it easier.

I removed the 1st screw behind the trigger finger which was a plug screw on my gun. After all parts are installed on the gun you should be able insert a ball end allen wrench through this hole to adjust the sear.

I replaced the 2nd screw behind the trigger finger with a longer screw. This screw contacts the trigger iron to release the sear. The length of this screw will vary depending on the location of the flat steel piece than holds the sear adjustment screw.

After everything is installed, except the 2nd screw that bears on the trigger iron, adjust the sear adjustment screw until the gun will not cock then back it out about a 1/4 turn. Now see if the gun will stay cocked by doing the bump test and hand slap test. Repeat these test until it remains cocked.

Now for the 2nd screw that bears on the trigger iron. This screw can be the length that operates best. Do these adjustments pointing the gun in a safe direction. Pull the trigger until it contacts the sear adjust set screw on the flat steel piece that was installed and hold. This is the trigger stop. Now run the 2nd screw, coated with gummy thread locker, in until the gun fires and then release the trigger. I then turn the 2nd screw in just a little more have just a little over travel after the gun fires.

Now see if the safety functions. Point the gun in a safe direction cock the gun and engage the safety. Pull the trigger and see if it fires. If it does fire you need to back out the safety screw until it does not fire. You may need to replace the factory screw will a longer screw to make the safety functional.

After everything is competed do the bump and slap test to make sure the gun does not fire. Do this test with the safety engaged and not engaged.

It is better to have a heavier trigger that is safe than a light trigger that is not safe. Once you see how everything works the adjustment maybe fine-tuned.

You can remove these modifications and return the gun to factory except for the holes in the plastic trigger bock.

This is a template of the trigger block. I use it to show approximately where I make the slots for the flat steel used for the trigger iron adjustment. I just drilled 2 holes side by side then filed the slot out.

The notched corner is the locator notch for the trigger block. The small rectangle is where you make the slot for the flat steel used for the trigger iron adjustment screw.

The set screws come from the bottom (trigger side) up to hold the flat steel in place.

 

[nobody1]

This post is useless if you want to deal with the Avenger trigger.

 

[EmptyTin_Tim]

Hey guys, has anyone just removed the middle adjustment screw? Seems to lighten the pull and my safety still works when engaged. Even bumped the cocked gun a few times on purpose in different spots and it still was safe/ did not fire.

Obviously not a match trigger but still better than stock. Any negative effects to this that you guys can see?

 

[LONESTAR .25]

Hey guys, has anyone just removed the middle adjustment screw? Seems to lighten the pull and my safety still works when engaged. Even bumped the cocked gun a few times on purpose in different spots and it still was safe/ did not fire.

Obviously not a match trigger but still better than stock. Any negative effects to this that you guys can see?

I'm interested to hear more

 

[EmptyTin_Tim]

I'm interested to hear more

It seemed to lighten the pull. The 1st stage is kinda floppy but I don't exactly have a wall in the 2nd. It just made the pull lighter. Might have been a trade off there?

I did that in Feb and haven't changed anything since. I can consistently hit a 2 inch spinner at 73 yards (no wind lol) so it's light enough but I just want a little more of a wall. It's not like it surprises me when it fires but it's no "glass rod break".

 

[LONESTAR .25]

Thanks, I just got a .25 and shot her Sunday in the wind and little rain. The range I was at only has 50 and 100 yards. Sighted in at 50. I would have preferred 35 for a start. Got her zeroed in nicely about 10 shots in. I used 28.5 g. Barracuda hunter extreme. Now I'm trigger picky, I didn't even notice any issues with it. May have been the wind and rain hitting me..lol

 

[EmptyTin_Tim]

I considered the .25. Glad it is working for you despite the wind and rain! A round nose diabolo pellet may do better groups but glad to hear those hunting pellets grouped up even with the stock trigger settings.