Has Anyone tried Joe Wayne Rhea's method for gun stock refinishing?

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Gerry52

Gerry52

Member
Oct 13, 2017
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Oceanside,California, United States
Watched this video yesterday in the hopes of refinishing my Royale, walnut stock. I want a high gloss finish on it. Yes, I'm aware of how popular Tru Oil method is but Joe's method seems a lot less trouble free & results are better than Tru Oil imho. Anybody done this? Please let me know your results. TIA
P.S. I'm NOT an experienced woodworker but am a "jack of all trades".

 
I really like oil based finishes, like Tru-Oil, especially if it's thinned down. Its readily available and easy to apply. I think there's some better finishes. I personally like General Arm-R-Seal. It comes in either satin, semi. or gloss. One cautionary note about oil based finishes is that you NEED to be careful of how you dispose of used rags. Spontaneous combustion is something that can happen if you're not careful.

If you're not an experienced finisher, Zinsser Seal Coat and or shellac it maybe a better product for you. Super easy to apply, with wipe or brush it on. Zinsser also sells Shellac that comes in a spray can. And the used rags won't spontaneously combust.

If you want a really pro look on your stock, check out Mylands Melamine Lacquer.
 
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Mr.H said:
I really like oil based finishes, like Tru-Oil, especially if it's thinned down. Its readily available and easy to apply. I think there's some better finishes. I personally like General Arm-R-Seal. It comes in either satin, semi. or gloss. One cautionary note about oil based finishes is that you NEED to be careful of how you dispose of used rags. Spontaneous combustion is something that can happen if you're not careful.

If you're not an experienced finisher, Zinsser Seal Coat and or shellac it maybe a better product for you. Super easy to apply, with wipe or brush it on. Zinsser also sells Shellac that comes in a spray can. And the used rags won't spontaneously combust.

If you want a really pro look on your stock, check out Mylands Melamine Lacquer.
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Mr.H, the Minwax poly wipe is water base. I'm not as concerned about getting the application right as doing the prep work correctly. As in painting, prep is as or more important than the painting. Thanks for the info.
 
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Most water based finishes can raise the grain of wood. The Zinsser Seal Coat can lock in subsequent water base poly applications

If you are unacquainted with “raised grain”, take a scrap piece of hard wood, maple or walnut. Sand the surface with 80 grit, then 120, then 180 or 220. Use a small wood block and wrap the sandpaper around the block.
After you’e gone through the grits, wipe off all the dust. Microfiber cloth works well for this. Now run your fingertips over the piece of wood. It should feel very smooth.

Now take a fairly wet (water) rag and wipe it over your sanded piece. Let the wood block air dry. Once dried, run your fingers over the wood. It should feel somewhat “fuzzy”.

Most consumer grade water based polyurethanes will “raise” the wood grain, resulting in a rough feeling finish.

I’m not a big fan of water based poly.
 
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Gerry, I watched the video. The Min Wax Poly Seems easy.

I recently finished my ‘first and only gun wood stock’ project with True Oil.

Watched a lot of YT videos B4 I tried my luck. I have an FX Royale 400 .22 ST barrel from SPAW with Walnut stock. This was a 3-week OCD trial and error learning experience for me.

I probably sanded and applied 9 or 10 True Oil coats before I called it “good.”

Also used 000 and 0000 Steel Wool in between sanding and applying the True Oil.

I wanted a glossy finish. Came out nice.

Would be happy to talk live if needed.

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I've done similar solution to Joe's to touch up the stock before with thinned Minwax. Joe's way does work. Like he says, he's not taking off the original finish. He's simply cleaning off the oils and then scuffing it to let the new finish adhere better. Painter's and finisher's going over a previous layer of paint almost always sand/scuff the previous layer to promote better adhesion. You can really use any type of wood sealing product that you like, so long as it is compatible with the original sealer.

I also did a complete strip and refinish. I watched a lot of woodworking/refinishing videos and came up with the method and finish product for the look that I thought would give me the best result and look I was after. This is stripped of all old finish, sanded, stained, and finish coated.


IMG_20230204_111439172_2~2.jpg
 
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tommyb said:
Gerry, I watched the video. The Min Wax Poly Seems easy.

I recently finished my ‘first and only gun wood stock’ project with True Oil.

Watched a lot of YT videos B4 I tried my luck. I have an FX Royale 400 .22 ST barrel from SPAW with Walnut stock. This was a 3-week OCD trial and error learning experience for me.

I probably sanded and applied 9 or 10 True Oil coats before I called it “good.”

Also used 000 and 0000 Steel Wool in between sanding and applying the True Oil.

I wanted a glossy finish. Came out nice.

Would be happy to talk live if needed.

View attachment 410157

View attachment 410158

View attachment 410159
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Thanks pal. Yours looks beautiful! If I need more assistance I'll get in touch.
 
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Oil base products MAY be somewhat available in small pockets of this State, but in general, the laws were in effect in the mid-1990's.
Southern Komiefornia in particular is not oil base friendly at all. Most company's will not ship to this State due to the blurring of the exact laws set forth. Some places okay, others not. One needs to call the local jurisdiction to verify.
 
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