Does anyone make or know something that will make an after market hammer for the flashpup. I am trying to make it quieter by getting rid of the loud hammer strike noise. Already have depinger installed next will be heat string on spring but want the hammer done to.
Tuning Hatsan flashpup hammer
- Thread starter robertnadia84
- Start date
I have been experimenting with quieting the hammer end of the Flashpup gun. What you might try is to take out the hammer spring spacer and replace it with a couple 8mm o-rings or something like that. I was playing with various ways to reduce spring tension for lower the velocity out put of the gun. I found that purchasing a shorter 4mm hammer adjustment screw gave me more downward adjustment. The stock 4mm screw is 20mm long. ACE hardware sells a 12mm long 4mm screw. This will put the hammer screw below the 2mm locking screw depth so that 2mm will need to be set aside so it doesn't end up down in the gun.
Anyway while I was doing this I experimented with different types of spring spacers and found I could take a little more "ring" out of the set up by having something in the hammer that absorbed. This is similar to the Benjamin Bulldog that have a plastic piece inside their hammer spring. People think that piece is a spring guide but it is not, it is a noise dampener for the spring. When you take the piece out the ring in your ear from the Bulldog hammer spring is crazy loud. Anyway Crosman told me that piece was a sound attenuator for the hammer spring on the Bulldog, so I figured why not make something that, that would fit in the hammer of the Hatsan. I have not tried it but possibly a piece of heat shrink tube on one end of the out side of the spring may work too.
Anyway while I was doing this I experimented with different types of spring spacers and found I could take a little more "ring" out of the set up by having something in the hammer that absorbed. This is similar to the Benjamin Bulldog that have a plastic piece inside their hammer spring. People think that piece is a spring guide but it is not, it is a noise dampener for the spring. When you take the piece out the ring in your ear from the Bulldog hammer spring is crazy loud. Anyway Crosman told me that piece was a sound attenuator for the hammer spring on the Bulldog, so I figured why not make something that, that would fit in the hammer of the Hatsan. I have not tried it but possibly a piece of heat shrink tube on one end of the out side of the spring may work too.
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I don’t have any spacer what so ever on my flashpup now to take out. But I did hear of some people running heat shrink on the spring itself to help with the noise. I think the main noise we hear is the hammer hitting the valve. How does it sound with the shorter adjustment screw? And I more try the heat stink tubing n see how it sounds after that to.
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When I ran the short 12mm long hammer adjusting screw I dropped in a thick 8mm o-ring between the spring and adjuster and it sounded more dull, but not a lot, like when you put in a depinger a gun. On some guns the depinger makes a huge difference and on others it just kind of dulls the sound. There was still a "clink" sound. I have had the air tank off my gun and it seems like and end cap for the valve stem could be made. It's one of those issues that once you start quieting the gun down you realize just how loud the hammer is. Besides a de-pinger I have a Donny FL adpater on the QE. The Donny FL KOI with the QE running subsonic velocity, it amost seems to magnify the hammer strike sound.
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Yeah I think am gonna look at some good drill bits n find ways to do this. With out a drill press gonna be a fun one. Mite even just make the hole hammer top peek. Not sure yet but would like to know what it sounds like with it done.
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It would seem the entire hammer could be turned out of a piece of Delrin plastic and that would be impact durable.
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The problem with that is finding someone that will turn one. At the moment I don’t know anyone with equipment to make one.
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There probably is only so much that can be done with the gun. The way it is made is not conducive to sound deadening. The receiver walls are also very thin which does not lend itself to sound attenuation. I notice if I knock on the side plate of the cheek piece, between the adjusting screw it sound like an amplified mega phone. I have actually thought about putting stick on archery sound absorbers, just to take some of the hollow sound out of it. Detuning the gun has been a challenge but I think I finally got it figured out. Made a couple videos to show a friend who has the same gun some of the issues I was having.
https://youtu.be/l8Vu6bBM0o4
https://youtu.be/t2yc7GL18ds
https://youtu.be/l8Vu6bBM0o4
https://youtu.be/t2yc7GL18ds
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Highly doubt a plastic hammer would have enough weight to open the valve. I’ve just never heard of that light a hammer. Especially not on a Hatsan.
possibly machining a delrin or peek plug and pressing it into the place where the hammer impacts the valve might help.
That’s pretty common on the RAW/theoben hammers
possibly machining a delrin or peek plug and pressing it into the place where the hammer impacts the valve might help.
That’s pretty common on the RAW/theoben hammers
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Maybe but Delrin comes in different grades and is a very dense heavy plastic that is turn-able on a lathe. They use it to make very large pulley sheaves, for the load blocks on industrial/construction cranes, as it is softer on the wire rope than metal sheaves. I would envision a bi-metal plastic and composite unit similar to the typical plastic insert like you are describing but switch it up for durability. Something with a metal striking surface surrounded by a sound attenuating composite would be nice. Even a brass hammer with a steel striking insert would be substantially quieter than the steel bell hammer, ringing inside the receiver. The problem is the Hatsan is a budget friendly gun design that was not made with quietness in mind, even with the QE system. The simplified receiver, hammer and spring design do their job but are noisy. I think to accomplish any substantial quieting of the current design would require specifically designed, new drop in parts, because only so much can be accomplished by modifying what is there already.
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The hammers are a pretty solid chunk of steel… not hollow at all. Think the flash hammer is around 63-64grams
possibly you could drill a hole in the front and press a small piece of delrin or peek.
other than that, have you thought about adding a regulator? That would really allow you to tune the the hammer to the valve. That would help more that modifying the hammer.
possibly you could drill a hole in the front and press a small piece of delrin or peek.
other than that, have you thought about adding a regulator? That would really allow you to tune the the hammer to the valve. That would help more that modifying the hammer.
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The regulator is something I have been thinking about for the gun since I bought it I just hate to pay 100bucks for one. My hammer come to find out does have the insert thanks from the owner before me. And with the reg I can take the depinger out if I pick one up and also have a better shot string.
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I don't know that I would consider a piece of 16mm round stock steel bored with a 60mm deep hole on the back, to accommodate the 20mm long adjuster, 4mm long spring spacer and approximately 25-30mm long of smooth bore countersunk area to allow the spring to move smoothly, a solid piece. Steel is prone to ringing and some shapes and extensions (springs) can amplify the sound waves.
Possibly boring clear through like on a Benjamin hammer, and then threading in an adjuster from the front of the hammer that would be accessible from the back, through the spring.
A regulator would be cool but adding a $100 option to what is essentially a $100 gun is kinda going the wrong direction. I know people are willing to spend $300 all day long on these but if you look at the labor, material quality and build quality, the majority of the cost on these is shipping and importation fees. I think keeping the cheap airguns cheap is best. I did spend $80 ordering a second barrel from HatsanUSA, that I am sure isn't worth much more than $10 but I need it for an experiment to check consistency on their manufacturing of bore diameter.
Possibly boring clear through like on a Benjamin hammer, and then threading in an adjuster from the front of the hammer that would be accessible from the back, through the spring.
A regulator would be cool but adding a $100 option to what is essentially a $100 gun is kinda going the wrong direction. I know people are willing to spend $300 all day long on these but if you look at the labor, material quality and build quality, the majority of the cost on these is shipping and importation fees. I think keeping the cheap airguns cheap is best. I did spend $80 ordering a second barrel from HatsanUSA, that I am sure isn't worth much more than $10 but I need it for an experiment to check consistency on their manufacturing of bore diameter.
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Yeah I have seen hammers drilled all the way throw then also around the outer edge. I wonder how that would change the sound or weight by doing either or both. I already have a peek insert in my hammer. Would be worried about drilling behind it removing material would weaken the peek. Even drilling muti holes around the outer edge could possibly change the sound. If anyone has any exp doing so would like to hear the results.
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Sorry this video is made for a friend who is kind of a beginner but I have a few places in it where I shoot my gun and I am wondering how it's noise level compares to where you are at with yours? I also want to do something about sound deadening portions of the stock, maybe with some stick on Limbsaver archery noise eliminators. The cheek piece is like a little loud speaker.
https://youtu.be/uM0IW2P-x7U
https://youtu.be/uM0IW2P-x7U
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Just keep in mind, if you lighten the hammer, you have to increase HS tension. Or get a stronger spring.
Or increase the hammer strike length. So it can gain more speed.
Regulator is far and away the best way to increase the performance on a cheap gun. Sound profile changes, when properly tuned. Shot count increases.
if you have a good barrel, and want to take the time. Hatsan will respond well when the power is tamed. They tend to come from the factory shooting very hot.
Or increase the hammer strike length. So it can gain more speed.
Regulator is far and away the best way to increase the performance on a cheap gun. Sound profile changes, when properly tuned. Shot count increases.
if you have a good barrel, and want to take the time. Hatsan will respond well when the power is tamed. They tend to come from the factory shooting very hot.
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I would expect someone capable of machining a new hammer would consider weight and spring tension and possibly install tungsten inserts to maintain weight and also cause a change in sound profile, since it is more dense than steel.
No doubt a regulator will change a cheap gun, making it quieter and more functional but then it ceases to be a cheap gun unless you were able to obtain a used one and built it up.
I have adjusted my Hatsan from 500 to 1300 FPS shooting six brands and fourteen different weights of pellets, having run around 4,000 pellets through it in the last two months. I have quite a bit of log book information that I have collected so that I can make future predictions with it. When the new Hatsan barrel arrives today, if it is made correctly to caliber specifications, that information will change and I will need to start over.
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