Hatsan - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

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Bear-of-Grayling said:
The first 135 received was early in the production. Better finishing through out however the next one .25 was very nice also. The first one had a very slow leaking Vortex gas ram. Did not notice it until after the warranty expired. Could have been what you are talking about. Not sure. Hatsan sent a new Vortex ram to me that only cost $40. Neither has ever been an issue for me since and they are stored standing up in a safe. Same with several other Vortex 95’s and never a problem. Maybe the issue was early on. No matter as when they give out (and sooner or later they will) they will be replaced with springs anyway. Gas rams have seals and seals expire. Springs don’t. They rarely break. They can be tuned as smooth as gas rams. Everything is a trade off.
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I don't know anything about the gas rams but I beg to differ on springs not wearing out because the one in my Diana 34 wore itself out into four pieces loaned out to my neighbor. I cant tell you how many pellets have been through it but north of five thousand is accurate. I didnt know springs were a wear item until I started researching the topic. The gun is down waiting on my Macarri tune kit. Just a spring is twenty dollars plus eight shipping but they are out of stock and I wanted the full tune kit anyway. If you are a high count shooter I would get a spring and piston seal from the vendor of your choice to have on hand. Maybe checking velocity with a chronograph may alert you to a pending failure, others with more experience might chime in and enlighten us.
 
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Pneumaddict said:
Good guns. Cheep, hevy, n’ tha blooin iz turible. Soft metil n’ tha scroos two. Bilt like a tank tho.
Nise would on tha spensive wons. To dang hevy too hunt wit. I got for uv em. Tha big mod 125 in 25 kaliber is sho nuff bad medasin four skwirls!
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I'm going to adopt this method of writing. Instead of worrying about misspellings, I'll spell everything wrong on purpose. Brilliant!

I own a Hatsan 95 and I just finished experimenting with the longer trigger screw modification. I'm very pleased with the result. Got the weight down to just under 3 lbs which is so much better than it was. Those Quatro triggers are ridiculously heavy out of the box.
 
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Bear-of-Grayling said:
Started playing around with Hatsan’s around 2013 maybe before. First bought the 95 springer in .177. Now have a cabinet full of different Hatsan models. These are/were well made, accurate and hard hitting rifles. They are also everything everybody says about them. Quality is all over the place. Some good enough out of the box. Some not.

I like the model 95 but the size to weight ratio is just not right to me. So, I made them into carbines. Top .177 Spring / Bottom .22 Vortex. Prefer the spring over the Vortex. Polishing the piston and internals, then lining the piston with blister pack plastic and polishing the spring ends smooths the behavior as well if not better than the Vortex. The potential of the trigger is not being realized because the 2 adjustment screws are about 1/16 of an inch to short. These triggers can be gotten safely to a couple pounds or even much less if desired. There are plenty of videos out there that will help someone go through one of these.

These Hatsan’s are a bargain in the box that is full of potential. German steel and Turkish Walnut. At a very good price. (not much more than a Weihrauch tuning kit) However, if one just doesn’t like to tinker, then this may not be for you.
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The Hatsan 135 QE Vortex has become a favorite. Own one in .22 and one in .25 caliber. Webley once made this “beast” (it is a huge rifle but not as heavy as it looks) in England but they gave it up and it went to Turkey under Hatsan. Fully adjustable Turkish Walnut stock, the trigger is a 4-lever (hence Quattro) as is the German “Rekord” trigger. Accurate, powerful and under $300.

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The last Hatsan a friend bought and the metal work and stock were very rough. Also the stock had no figure at all. Parts are almost impossible to get. Service is out the window. They won’t even get back to you no matter how much you pester them. Hatsan seems to be putting all their effort (and nice wood) into their PCP guns. Wouldn’t buy one now that wasn’t in my hands. These are/were good learning and project guns!
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I'm curious. Besides shortening the stock and making them carbines, what have you done to the stocks to improve appearance and to help seal them against water damage, etc?
 
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razor62 said:
I'm going to adopt this method of writing. Instead of worrying about misspellings, I'll spell everything wrong on purpose. Brilliant!

I own a Hatsan 95 and I just finished experimenting with the longer trigger screw modification. I'm very pleased with the result. Got the weight down to just under 3 lbs which is so much better than it was. Those Quatro triggers are ridiculously heavy out of the box.
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I also am interested in tuning the trigger. I bought M3 x 10mm grub screws as suggested in another discussion. They also mentioned removing the rear screw entirely which I've read about twice also.
 
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Ant-knee said:
Update to my vortex fix. I just pulled out the Mod 87 after a couple months of sitting, and the piston was empty again. I filled and put more Pel-gun oil it. We'll have to see how long that lasts. At 150bar fill, it was shooting 9.57gn Hunter Extremes at 955fps. Giving over 19fpe.
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I was thinking Lucas power steering stop leak fluid .. maybe that would recondition the ram seals or slow the leaking down some ..lol still throw that in if you replaced the seals for good measure..😏
 
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SAA_Gunslinger said:
I also am interested in tuning the trigger. I bought M3 x 10mm grub screws as suggested in another discussion. They also mentioned removing the rear screw entirely which I've read about twice also.
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Don't remove the rear screw. Just tighten it all the way. That's your second stage screw and it's fine.

Take the front screw out. File the trigger housing down about 1/32" and put it back in all the way snug.

Check your static trigger adjustment. Keep filing under the first stage screw until the trigger is ALMOST right. It will get lighter when you cock it and it's under tension.

If you remove just a little material under the head of the first stage screw it will go down plenty and your trigger will break perfectly. No need for longer screws. Just a few strokes of a file will do it.
 
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Bedrock Bob said:
Don't remove the rear screw. Just tighten it all the way. That's your second stage screw and it's fine.

Take the front screw out. File the trigger housing down about 1/32" and put it back in all the way snug.

Check your static trigger adjustment. Keep filing under the first stage screw until the trigger is ALMOST right. It will get lighter when you cock it and it's under tension.

If you remove just a little material under the head of the first stage screw it will go down plenty and your trigger will break perfectly. No need for longer screws. Just a few strokes of a file will do it.
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Okay. I'll try that today. Thanks for the help!
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
Well being im butterfingered. It's easy to replace the screw then the trigger if you somehow goof it up ..lol
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You can't goof up. You don't do much except flatten out the casting marks on the outside of the housing.

The worst that can happen is you go a little too far and have to back the screw out a half turn.

The long screws stick out or you have to shorten them and dress up the threads so they go back in. This way you just take the existing screw down another turn or so by filing the housing. Simple, easy and no risk at all.

The newer triggers are all "stepped" under the first stage screw. You just clean up that "step" a little so the screw goes down a little farther. It's a simple 2 minute fix that only requires a few strokes of a file on the outside of the housing.

The Allen wrench points to the surface you need to file. This is an older trigger blade without the "step" but it works the same. Instead of a longer screw you just take the existing one down a bit more by lowering that seating surface.

20240803_175650.jpg
 
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Can't speak for the rammers, but I found the trigger cassette on my springer to be very soft and a pain the ass when putting the trigger mech back together. Just removing the pins once or twice widens the holes and they slip out very very easily on the rebuild. The safety lever inexplicably bent at some point, which also added to the frustration of reassembly.

As mentioned, potentially good guns, but you need to have one to inspect before buying, and patience if you intend to fiddle. Or buy one already sorted.

Good points on filing the trigger housing for trigger adjustments. I was too dumb to think of that approach:(
 
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Keene said:
Can't speak for the rammers, but I found the trigger cassette on my springer to be very soft and a pain the ass when putting the trigger mech back together. Just removing the pins once or twice widens the holes and they slip out very very easily on the rebuild. The safety lever inexplicably bent at some point, which also added to the frustration of reassembly.

As mentioned, potentially good guns, but you need to have one to inspect before buying, and patience if you intend to fiddle. Or buy one already sorted.

Good points on filing the trigger housing for trigger adjustments. I was too dumb to think of that approach:(
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The silly pins float to the right when shooting. They will walk right into the stock and out if you let them.

I take them out and smack the "left" side with a hammer to fatten them a little. Then put them back in from the left. Problem solved.

If you cock a H@t$an hard and bump against the end of the stroke you will bend those pins and spread apart the trigger housing. Sooner or later it destroys the trigger. If you cock them gently just to the point the sears latch they last a long time.

The triggers are a great design. The materials used are inferior. Be gentle with cocking them and they last much longer. Get excited and start slamming the cocking rod into the trigger and things won't last 1k shots.

Here is the pins on the left side. The heads mushroomed out a little with a hammer.

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Here is the right side. You can see the dimple where the pins walk out and press into the stock.

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Here is the new "stepped" trigger blade. You can see the bright metal where I filed it under the first stage screw. .

20241102_091321.jpg
 
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Keene said:
Can't speak for the rammers, but I found the trigger cassette on my springer to be very soft and a pain the ass when putting the trigger mech back together. Just removing the pins once or twice widens the holes and they slip out very very easily on the rebuild. The safety lever inexplicably bent at some point, which also added to the frustration of reassembly.

As mentioned, potentially good guns, but you need to have one to inspect before buying, and patience if you intend to fiddle. Or buy one already sorted.

Good points on filing the trigger housing for trigger adjustments. I was too dumb to think of that approach:(
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Ya in the pics I mentioned above I showed the dummy pins I used to hold it all together in place then simultaneously knock them out as you put the right pins in .. lol

That hatesn trigger is a pain

.
 
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I had a Hatsan 105 torpedo, 22cal. Gas Ram, The thing was very heavy, quit the effort to cock. It broke all 3 scopes I put on it. The triggers geometry(?) seemed off and I could'nt find a hold that worked well. I sent it back. I got a Hatsan Flash bull-pup,22 cal. 4 or 5 years ago. It's very accurate. Speed was around 880 with 18gr pellets so it hits hard. I messed with adjusting the trigger and ended up with a single stage trigger that surprised me by how well I can shoot it. It has never leaked. Oh,the magazines don't work so it's a single shot. I LIKE IT !lol
 
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