Here's a couple of things to consider — depending very much on your shooting scenarios:
Hawke Sidewinder 4-16x50 FFP
➊ The reticle does not have thick outside posts. ➠ This, in my mind, is critical for shooting at low magnification with an FFP scope:
As the crosshairs become really small and harder to see, these
thick outside posts usually serve to guide the eyes toward where the crosshairs intersect.
You could overcome this somewhat by turning on the illumination — if it is daylight bright, which I don't know if it is.
➋ It has a larger objective lens. ➠ It might provide a brighter image then the Arken — but that's only important if you (a) want to scope cam, or (b) shoot in dark building or dark FT lanes or squirrels in dark woods.
➌ The field of view is slightly wider — 32-8ft (compared to 30-7ft).
➍ It has a gridded reticle. ➠ That either clutters your view — or allows you to make better shots using holdoffs — depending on your preference to compensate for range and wind.
Arken EPL4 4-16x44 FFP ➊ It has a smaller objective lens. ➠ It likely has a longer SPR = Sharpness and Parallax Range — or what photographers call "depth of field."
The benefit is that the scope is less finnicky and demanding for your to adjust the parallax — it will be sharp and parallax free within a larger range. (This is the opposite of what field target shooters want when they use the parallax wheel to estimate the range for their shot.)
➋ It has a clean reticle. ➠ Clutterfree: Just crosshairs with subtensions, not Christmas tree or Santa Clause.
➌ It has a 0-stop. ➠ If you dial, this can be very helpful. Even moreso if you shoot farther where your elevation adjustment goes beyond the 8mil of a single turret revolution.
Matthias