hBN (Hexagonal Boron Nitride) vs fouling

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Healthservices said:
Now that maybe an idea. That way it has a medium to attach to and the wax will bond itself to the slugs. Then again if it will mix with alcohol and put a very thin coating onto the slugs maybe thats all it needs? 🤔

I don't have alcohol but I do have some wax.

Allen
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I've done mos2 ( Molybdenum disulfide ) and triwax and with great results too ... huh :unsure:
 
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Ive been using this for well over a year now and tried many application techniques and mediums, killing anfew barrels in thr process. Alcohol is the best to use. Tried oils, waxes and pastes no no avail. HBN in that size is smaller than the steel molecules. Fire lapping is crucial to get the crystalline structure to 'fracture' and embed itself in between the steell. You can electro statically coat too.

Which lube do you use for your pellets.

Here’s what I use.....
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Healthservices said:
Now that maybe an idea. That way it has a medium to attach to and the wax will bond itself to the slugs. Then again if it will mix with alcohol and put a very thin coating onto the slugs maybe thats all it needs? 🤔

I don't have alcohol but I do have some wax.

Allen
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Experts have said 90% or greater isopropyl alcohol
 
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SqrlHntr said:
Ive been using this for well over a year now and tried many application techniques and mediums, killing anfew barrels in thr process. Alcohol is the best to use. Tried oils, waxes and pastes no no avail. HBN in that size is smaller than the steel molecules. Fire lapping is crucial to get the crystalline structure to 'fracture' and embed itself in between the steell. You can electro statically coat too.

Which lube do you use for your pellets.

Here’s what I use.....
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
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Good to know! I guess I’ll mop the barrel again, let it dry then fire lap it by sending 10-20 coated rounds through it as you described. What method do you use to coat the projectiles? Thanks
 
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manabeknives said:
Thanks @Michael
I'll give it a try!
what diference doe the micron size make??
Thanks
MIke
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You'll just have to run the math. In my other hobbies I have precision oil bath bearings that have to have the exact film measurement or will not fit let alone work. 5 mic seems to be .0002. so on coated mating surfaces etc.it would double & in a bore with slugs or pellets it would be x4 if I'm thinking correctly.
small increases but unlike like a lot of products used in the game I suspect this is much more permanent. Nothing against it at all it but one must be aware I think
 
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Jaxjax said:
You'll just have to run the math. In my other hobbies I have precision oil bath bearings that have to have the exact film measurement or will not fit let alone work. 5 mic seems to be .0002. so on coated mating surfaces etc.it would double & in a bore with slugs or pellets it would be x4 if I'm thinking correctly.
small increases but unlike like a lot of products used in the game I suspect this is much more permanent. Nothing against it at all it but one must be aware I think
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excellent reply...Thank you
 
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I have been using it for over ten years now. I first got some to use a bullet coating for my powder burners, and applied it by tumbling. Small caliber bullets coated are so slick that they are hard to handle. I really could not see any accuracy improvement or lessened fouling, but then I have got to the point where I do not shoot firearms that much. I have added some into oil and greases and it is slick, used on sears and sliding surfaces. The main thing I can say is that it is cleaner to handle than Moly. Something else not mentioned here in any of the other posts is that the stuff is non toxic, just do not inhale if you should drop and create a dust cloud. It is used in many cosmetics to create a feeling of slickness, ie ladies lipsticks, shampoo and lotions. In those if you see an iridescent appearance then that is unusally HBN. Put a dab of HBN on your fingers and you will see how slick it feels.

I never tried applying to a bore by making a suspension in alcohol but see no reason why that would not work. There was at one time a product on the market called Danzac which was Titanium disulfate, similar to Moly, a suspension in alcohol for that purpose. I have applied to pellets by putting a little in a tin of pellets and shaking but results were not great as some would clump in the hollow bases and not in others, may have to try an alcohol suspension and apply to some , drain and dry and see how that works. I would think as slick as it makes pellets it might increase velocity due to less friction.
 
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I just finished cleaning, mopping (with hBN suspended in alcohol), and fire lapping 15 pellets (that were coated with hBN suspended in alcohol). It's hard to describe how slippery this stuff is!

One thing to note is that when coating the pellets (in hBN suspended in alcohol) that after they dried there was quite a bit of build up inside the skirts. I may use these to "reapply" a little hBN after cleaning, but I don't think I'll shoot them that way. Perhaps a dry powder application would be better if someone wanted to actually shoot hBN coated pellets (unless you have a tumbler with fine medium to help ensure the material doesn't build up in the waist/skirts).

*As @jkingrph stated above - even though the powder is non-toxic I wouldn't suggest inhaling any of the nano particles ;)
 
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Michael said:
I just finished cleaning, mopping (with hBN suspended in alcohol), and fire lapping 15 pellets (that were coated with hBN suspended in alcohol). It's hard to describe how slippery this stuff is!

One thing to note is that when coating the pellets (in hBN suspended in alcohol) that after they dried there was quite a bit of build up inside the skirts. I may use these to "reapply" a little hBN after cleaning, but I don't think I'll shoot them that way. Perhaps a dry powder application would be better if someone wanted to actually shoot hBN coated pellets (unless you have a tumbler with fine medium to help ensure the material doesn't build up in the waist/skirts).

*As @jkingrph stated above - even though the powder is non-toxic I wouldn't suggest inhaling any of the nano particles ;)
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I hope it works for you. But it didn't for me in my benchrest accuracy quest.

I've tried HBN, moly, tungsten, teflon, and graphite. Treated barrels and pellets. Most increased muzzle velocity. None improved accuracy/precision; in fact they mostly worsened groups. And all but graphite resulted in finding lead particles on my cleaning patches much sooner and in greater amounts than if I used nothing or a simple lubricant like WD-40. Perhaps the HBN and other lubes don't prevent lead particles from forming but make them less likely to cling to or fill the grooves?
 
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Airgun-hobbyist said:
Just curious as to any gain in speed. Would you mind doing a chrono reading and see if it is any faster?
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different chronograph and different conditions, but it looks like I lost on average about 7 FPS

IMG_8254.jpeg

IMG_8414.jpeg
 
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These videos were sent to me by a friend. The videos depict how lead is still present after hBN treating a barrel, however the lead does not bind to the metal bore as it does to an untreated bore.

400 rounds of JSB & JTS pellets

Same bore after 2 swipes with a nylon brush and 2 dry patches (no cleaning solvent)
 
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A borescope is the only way to tell if a barrel is clean. You can have lead stuck to the barrel so severely that a brush or cleaners won't remove it. The only way you know it is by loss of accuracy or borescope. My Wolverine barrel was HORRIBLE after firing soft lead and then hard lead. Jsb then Crossman premiere. I cleaned, cleaned, and even brushed, brushed, and cleaned more with every cleaner recommended to me. The patches were coming out clean every time. Then, I had it checked with a borescope. If you look closely, you can see the difference in the shade or shine
of the lead.
So all you guys that say, I tried this, and then I tried that, and it didn't work. Well, maybe, just maybe, you had an unseen variable throwing a wrench in the spokes. Some things you can not unsee!!!!! (Dirty barrels and fat chicks with plumbers crack)
 
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