FX HELP! FX Dreamline 2019 AMP regulator creep

Dear mates, I filled up my Dreamlite .22 day before and the regulator pr was around 135bar. I DID NOT fire it that time.
After 20 hrs, I realized that the regulator pressure itself has moved up to 140 bar.
I fired the first shot and the pressure went down to 120 bar. Till other four consecutive shots it remained there. I left gun under observation.
After one hour, I realized regulator pressure moved upto 135 bar. Then very slowly to 140 bar in other 12 hours.
Have seen 910 Airgun video several times and earlier gone through this pain of adjusting regulator by degassing the rifle (as internal plenum installed).
There is .....😟😟😟
1. External AMP adjuster screw.
2. Piston travel adjuster (brass one with two small o-rings) whose travel controlled by a steel ball and the ball's movement further controlled by allen screw.

I received the gun few days back to rectify the similar creep and the person assured of having changed all O Rings and set regulator pressure between 130 - 135 bar. This has become a PAIN to repeatedly open the rifle and work on regulator.

I will be very greatful if someone can guide what to do.... which screw to tighten or loosen.
Don't want to courier the gun again and
again. Please help.
 
You have to polish up the two mating surfaces between the piston top and the bottom of the adjuster screw. The closer you can get those two surfaces to match each other the better. Mine creeped 5 bar over time, and I pulled those parts, changed orings, made sure everything wad clean and really polished up those surfaces with polishing cloth (not sand paper) and it made my regs solid.
 
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The newer AMP regulators with a brass piston seem to get more favorable reviews than the earlier FX regulators, but Huma still picks up business from people who have had bad experiences.

If your current regulator is externally adjustable, I think you can retain that feature with a Huma. See their FX category at
I'm seeing an adjustable one for both the tubed Dreamline and the bottled Dreamline.

Though if you have a little DIY skill in you, might as well try fixing your current regulator. Remove the piston and use progressive grits of sandpaper to flatten and smooth the small end. You need to completely remove the dimple in the end, in which case I'll disagree with the advice to avoid sandpaper. You just don't want scratches so deep that they cause you difficulty removing them with finer grits as you finish up. I like to carry it out to at least 2000 grit, and check my work as I go with a 5x or 10x loupe.

Regarding technique, this job can be done by hand. Just place the sandpaper against a flat backing like a piece of thick glass or scrap of granite and rub the part against it. Rotate/reposition the part in your hand frequently so you don’t develop an angled surface. It's fine if you end up with a slightly convex surface...the repositioning thing will help you achieve it.

Also, if the seat is one of those particularly sharp cones, I like to go ahead and blunt it ever so slightly and polish it. Doing so may result in a slightly longer break-in period but it will pay off in longevity.
 
Higher the micron number the softer the polish.

That's backwards. Micron is a description of the average particle size. A larger number is more coarse.

The product description on Amazon has conflicting statements [1] so that makes it confusing.

The coarsest in the pack is 30 microns which is equivalent to about 600 grit. How coarse you want to start of course depends on a number of factors but in my experience, a regulator that is worn to the point of creeping objectionably will be dimpled enough that I prefer to start with something more coarse...usually in the ballpark of 300 grit. If in doubt, start with a lighter abrasive and check your work and move to something more coarse if material is coming off painfully slow.

[1] One statement reads:
"Each grade is color coded for easy identification and is listed here from finest to coarsest. Micron / Color / Abrasive 1 / white Aluminum Oxide 2 / aqua Aluminum Oxide 3 / pink Aluminum Oxide 9 / light blue Aluminum Oxide 15 / gray Silicon Carbide 30 / green Silicon Carbide"
^ which is a correct statement

and another statement reads:
"Work in sequence from coarsest to finest grade (1-30)."
^ which is incorrect.
 
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