Whats the point of oil bleed just to close it an open it once your done bleeding moisture , or oil goes first like what.
I just poured in my 6 remaining ounces in im 4 ounces short man dang is it a waste? is it really that big of a risk, as when I tilted my compressor way far foreward a good small mouthfull worth came out that would of mixed in if I didnt tilt it, I dont know I dont want to be wasteful, Both are fully synthetic compressor oils.
Yea I read up about it an its a no go, But I just changed oil to secolube 500 filled it 10 oz and im surprised like what is going on the oil is already the same color of my husky oil I changed out Whatt only 15 minutes in 1st oil change I spilled the remained of the husky once I drained it, Dont matter I probably wont be using that again. But should I keep runnning my black grey oil or change it I dont know Its secolube I though after the first change you get all the metal out, But I still have it coming an 15 minutes in an oil is black/grey WTF is going on here secolube aint cheap.
For real Im waiting I dont wanna risk it but its only 15 minutes old like wtf I was a taken back when I looked at the oil level it seemed like 10 minutes it was already the same color as the husky full synthetic I had in for like 50 minutes. So I dont know what is goin on, But im a bit pissed off cuz secolube aint cheap an I just poured 10 ounces down the drain if the answer is what I think it is, I swear I dont know if my 3rd change gets dirty stupid fast thats 20 ounces of secolube gone.
I only fill guns, a 3-5 minute session, at some point, after a minute, or so, I open each of the system's three pressure release screws, one at a time, in no particular order, for a quick second, just to expel moisture.
How dirty oil gets must relate to manufacturing practices, I wouldn't stress, some machines are just dirtier inside than others. Used a less-expensive HUSKY Synthetic blend air compressor oil for my one-hour break-in, turned dark/cloudy, then used HUSKY Full Synthetic, after 20+ hours run time, still clear. There's a recent thread from a member who was also concerned that his compressor oil turned dark as soon as compressor ran after oil change. In your shoes, I run, as is, oil protection is still good, and majority of manufacturing debris went out with initial oil change.
Hmm I didnt know to bleed the oil one constantly , Il be doing that, I seen some guy one youtube say he sprays his bolt an whatever I do that aswell It keeps that part cooler where it gets the hottest, But it does introduce more moisture if you do it thats for sure. Alright how long should I be good on this 2nd oil for, I need to get an vibrating meter, I seen you talking about that some old posts Imma need one of those for sure.
Hold on, you've lost me, I'm not sure what you refer to as oil bleed screw. My reply answered two separate questions, second part doesn't apply to oil bleed. Please show oil bleed screw.
So you dont get the oil one? just the 2 moisture ones 1 on the copper one an one on the pump.?
No, no idea what oil bleed screw is, only two on compressor and one on copper-colored filter. Picture would help.
What? its one of the only 2 bleed screw ins you get they on both sides of compressor one is moisture, One is moisture from oil I guess.?
My compressor never came with an Owner's Manual, so maybe that's how they label the pressure release screw on the compressor side where fill whip attaches. My apologies never heard anything referred to as oil bleed screw but doesn't mean manufacturer didn't call it that. Filling tanks and guns is different, I can only share my SOP on filling guns. To repeat, at least for a second, I open each pressure release screw, one at a time, during the 3-5 minute fill time. I guess, if I ever picked up an SCBA tank, I'd maybe do the same, every 3-5 minutes during the longer fill time.
