Help identifying version of Diana 34

[ratatatat]

Hello. I am considering purchasing this Diana 34 that was advertised on Craigslist. Can any of you possibly ID the version from these pictures? From what I can tell many different versions have been produced over the years. Do you think it's worth $175? I know very little about these airguns so any help would be greatly appreciated! -Robert

? 

 

[shambozzie]

Look like you have the early version with the t01 trigger. The gun should have a metal hood over front sight and a push/pull safety. You have one of the best Rws triggers made with ball bearing. Once adjusted property can be very nice. Get an Rws lockdown mount for scope to offset bbl droop. A good cheap scope like the utg 4-16 will do fine. Clean the bbl very good, check all screws for tightness and you should be good to go . Jsb 8.4 or 10.3 should do well. Nice find . I see this is your first post. Welcome to the forum . 

 

[SteveV]

Possibly a TO1 version? The Diana logo is stamped, no butt plate, it would be worth that much to me.

Lot's of tune kits & parts still available, I'd say go for it -

 

[ratatatat]

Thank you so much!!!!

 

[Guest]

$175. Is a bargain for sure. Lucky you.

Mitch

 

[ratatatat]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go! 

 

[Guest]

If you look at the left rear of the receiver down just above the stock edge, you should see a set of numbers in 2 digit format. That will be the month and year built and go a ways in anything for your rifle parts wise should you need it. I have one dated 06 02, so June of 2002 but where the front of your stock is curved, mine is angled and not sure when they changed that.

Maintenance is as easy as wiping down the outside, stock included, after shooting with a bit of Ballistol. For the barrel, everyone has their preferences, mine is a Hoppes bore snake minus the bristles with Hoppes #9 on about 2 inches of the end. Couple pull-throughs and I have a clean barrel. You likely already know to check your stock screws, if not, you do now and springs have a habit of making them loosen over time so something to keep an eye on.

Pic of my T01 34 so you can see what I meant about that stock

.

 

[ratatatat]

If you look at the left rear of the receiver down just above the stock edge, you should see a set of numbers in 2 digit format. That will be the month and year built and go a ways in anything for your rifle parts wise should you need it. I have one dated 06 02, so June of 2002 but where the front of your stock is curved, mine is angled and not sure when they changed that.

Maintenance is as easy as wiping down the outside, stock included, after shooting with a bit of Ballistol. For the barrel, everyone has their preferences, mine is a Hoppes bore snake minus the bristles with Hoppes #9 on about 2 inches of the end. Couple pull-throughs and I have a clean barrel. You likely already know to check your stock screws, if not, you do now and springs have a habit of making them loosen over time so something to keep an eye on.

Pic of my T01 34 so you can see what I meant about that stock

.

Thank you! Mine was born on 03 94

 

[ratatatat]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go!

Thank you !!!! 


If you look at the left rear of the receiver down just above the stock edge, you should see a set of numbers in 2 digit format. That will be the month and year built and go a ways in anything for your rifle parts wise should you need it. I have one dated 06 02, so June of 2002 but where the front of your stock is curved, mine is angled and not sure when they changed that.

Maintenance is as easy as wiping down the outside, stock included, after shooting with a bit of Ballistol. For the barrel, everyone has their preferences, mine is a Hoppes bore snake minus the bristles with Hoppes #9 on about 2 inches of the end. Couple pull-throughs and I have a clean barrel. You likely already know to check your stock screws, if not, you do now and springs have a habit of making them loosen over time so something to keep an eye on.

Pic of my T01 34 so you can see what I meant about that stock

.

Thank you!!!

 

[ratatatat]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go!

Thank you!

 

[ratatatat]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go!

Can you tell me if the piston chamber seal is leather or synthetic on this old Diana? I'm guessing leather but want to be sure before I apply oil. Thanks again!

 

[shambozzie]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go!

Can you tell me if the piston chamber seal is leather or synthetic on this old Diana? I'm guessing leather but want to be sure before I apply oil. Thanks again!

The piston seal is synthetic.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Well, I was able to snag it for $150. This thing is built like a tank and it weighs a ton. Everything about it seems solid. Put a few rounds through it when I got home and it seems to be very accurate. I would appreciate any tips concerning cleaning and maintenance for those of you who are familiar with these rifles. -Robert

Good price ! Remove the stock and clean and degrease the three machine screw fastners. Then use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads and torque to 25 inch/lbs. How does it shoot now ? After firing, open the action and gently blow into the bore breech. If a light wisp of smoke comes out your compression chamber is adequately lubed. If no smoke is present use 1-2 drops of RWS chamber oil. Many will disagree with lubing the chamber on a springer but the manufacturer recommends it. Do not use more than a drop or two ! Do this every 1000 shots. Use 3-5 drops of RWS spring oil on the mainspring every 1000 shots. Clean the barrel from the breech end only ! I use Safari Charlie cleaner in the bore. It's a aerosol spray. Experiment with pellets to find the most accurate. Check stock fastners after first 100 shots to see they remain tight. If so, you're good to go!

Can you tell me if the piston chamber seal is leather or synthetic on this old Diana? I'm guessing leather but want to be sure before I apply oil. Thanks again!

As was stated, it is synthetic. I wouldn't oil the seal if your getting a tiny wisp of smoke after firing. By tiny I mean just barely any. That is a properly lubed seal. If none at all just do one drop. I usually work the action several times before firing. You will get a couple of shots that may produce a loud crack after firing. My .22cal M34 from the factory dieseled probably eight times before settling down. I probably won't even think of using chamber oil until at least 1000 shots.

 

[thumper]

I'm far from a Diana/RWS expert, but that's my favorite version of the Mod. 34. That should be a very good gun and serve you well for a long time. Congrats on the sweet deal, and welcome to the nuthouse!