Tuning Help me understand regulator break in

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igolfat8

igolfat8

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Oct 7, 2018
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What does it mean? I assume it’s after a certain amount of shots that the regulator settles in and becomes more efficient? Perhaps it would show up under a Chrono as lower SD? What is inside of it that requires breaking in? Springs, seals, mating surfaces? After its broken in does it wear out and require servicing? If so, how many cycles will it take before service is required? How do you know that service is requIred?
 
Great video to see the failure areas to know what needs to periodically be serviced and reolaced. He did not mention regulator creep having to waste the first couple of shots or what can possibly happen when constantly filling regulated guns way past 3000psi.

You learn the rest in real life the hard way that's what forums are for. Specifically the repair sub forum section.

It is my opinion to not introduce such malignant (typically dormant when new and broken in properly) cancer if the unregulated gun is already shooting great. It is definitely a failure point that can and will eventually fail likely at a least opportube moment when you don't know it failed till you missed your money shot not knowing it was the regulator's fault and not your crappy terrible shooting ability.

I break in by shooting at least 500 rounds before adjusting anything whatsoever on new guns.

I personally prefer unregulated guns so there are absolutely no surprises. No question first shot always hits perfect no iffs ands or butts.

I think it's best to store regulated guns right at the regulator set point and don't fill past 3000psi even if the gun rating is higher for better accuracy and less problems.

Manufacturers should design the poppets of regulated guns as though they are like unregulated guns that way they last longer.


 
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When talking of regulator break-in, generally we are talking about the valve seat wearing in so it seals more promptly and consistently. Ideally, both sides are perfectly flat and smooth but in practice many will have minor surface imperfections. One side of the valve seat is usually metal and the other side plastic. After cycling open and closed a number of times, the plastic side will become "ironed in" with the profile of the metal side which helps them form a better seal as they come together.

How long it takes for that to happen depends on a number of factors, chief among them:

1. surface quality of the mating surfaces - machining marks, scratches, dings, etc. will impede its ability to seal
2. geometry of the valve seat - a narrow sealing ring focuses the pressure and helps it seal, but may also lead to quicker wear depending on the nature of how the parts fit
3. hardness / toughness of the plastic - a softer plastic will break in sooner but will not last as long over the long haul

The term "regulator creep" deals with how a defective valve seat comes together and almost seals, but has small imperfections that allow air to slowly seep through until the output pressure builds high enough to fully squeeze the valve seat together. I've fixed a number of creepers by smoothing the surfaces. Not only does it remedy pressure creep, but dressing the metal side helps the plastic side last longer. Even the $15 paintball regulators from Aliexpress can be made to perform well if you don't mind the effort.

 
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By the way, I too prefer a properly tuned unregulated PCP over a poorly tuned regulated PCP with a bad regulator. However that does not mean I prefer it over a properly tuned regulated PCP with a good regulator. 

A lot of the problems attributed to regulators are an indication of a poorly tuned / poorly adjusted rifle or that we are asking the rifle to do something it is not suited to do. It isn't that regulators in general are so problematic, it's that we sometimes rely on them to clean up the mess when other things are out of balance. I think it's fairer to say it is a testament to how well they work that many times they manage to hide these other deficiencies.

Please, no one tell the chipmunk I brained at 57 yards on Saturday morning with a $300 DAR which had sat idle for a week that there was a regulator involved.

 
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I agree, the degree to which it affects the POI is what matters most. However for every post that links the problem to a chronograph reading, there seems to be 2 that say they notice the first shot is low (or high, depending on how much hammer strike is dialed in). That is, the POI is off by enough to be noticeable or meaningful.

So we blame the regulator. 

"It creeps up 10 bar when I let it rest for an hour", they might say. Meanwhile guys with their unregulated PCPs have a nice tight ES spanning a range of 30 bar easily. Why? Because theirs are properly tuned.
 
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If a gun has Reg Creep. Will the first few shots hit hi (or low? ) ? Or is it also possible that the first few shots could hit left or right of point of aim ?
Click to expand...

High or low will depend on how much hammer spring tension there is. There could also be some amount of lateral change depending on barrel harmonics but it would chiefly be seen as a high or low symptom.

Or if it is well tuned, there may be no observable difference.
 
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