Tuning HELP - Need grocery list for bullet making

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ray1377

ray1377

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Jul 1, 2015
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New Albany, Mississippi, United States
Hi fellows
I understand this question has been asked a gazillion times here but I'm not so sure it's been specific for this gun. I finally got a big bore and am super stoked about shooting it.
But I quickly learned that big bore bullets are not cheap. I'm really interested in what all it would take for me to start making my own bullets for my AEA .457 Challenger.
I know I need lead, a melting pot, and bullet mold. But here in lies the real kicker. I need all the information I can get from anyone who owns and shoots a AEA big bore to help me decide which mold might be best for my gun. I do know it shoots great with anything I've tried from Mr. Hollowpoint. It favors the 300gr and the 260gr. Any information you men can shed on this subject would be super helpful and I would appreciate it a ton.

Thx
Ray
 
Although not strictly necessary, I'd recommend a PID temperature control on your melting pot. Makes it easier, at least for beginners to get the temperature right, while fooling around learning everything else. In a way, it's easier to cast high caliber projectiles than pellets, seems that the mold comes to temperature faster. I cobbled a PID control together and packaged it into an ammo box. I plug the pot into the PID control and set the temperature.

I use a chunk of a large stick to smack the sprue plate, no need for some fancy tool in my opinion.

I use a cheap hot plate to keep the mold hot when casting. It reduces the time for the mold to come to temperature. Cold molds produce wrinkled under weight projectiles. So I get better yield with the preheat.

You need a good digital scale to sort your output. In the beginning you may not recognize underweight samples or even overweight ones. Some of the indicators can be subtle. With experience, it becomes easier to cull out the bad ones, and chuck them back in the pot.

Although I've cast for many years, I'm not immune to accidents. Had a lead splash land on me my last session. It was a close call. Wear some kind of protective clothes is my advice. Splash landed on the fly of my shorts! Ruined my shorts in more than one way. Had to discard them. Fortunately no injuries.

Casting can be zen-like, but you need to pay attention to many things.
 
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ray1377 said:
Hi fellows
I understand this question has been asked a gazillion times here but I'm not so sure it's been specific for this gun. I finally got a big bore and am super stoked about shooting it.
But I quickly learned that big bore bullets are not cheap. I'm really interested in what all it would take for me to start making my own bullets for my AEA .457 Challenger.
I know I need lead, a melting pot, and bullet mold. But here in lies the real kicker. I need all the information I can get from anyone who owns and shoots a AEA big bore to help me decide which mold might be best for my gun. I do know it shoots great with anything I've tried from Mr. Hollowpoint. It favors the 300gr and the 260gr. Any information you men can shed on this subject would be super helpful and I would appreciate it a ton.

Thx
Ray
Click to expand...
I've had great luck with the process and found it to be very simple especially with larger calibers. The first time I tried I was cranking out nice looking projectiles, and it has been a very satisfying aspect of air gunning for me.

I personally use a pressure pour ladle which I believe helps fill out the molds. You need a lead thermometer, a pot to melt the lead in, the ladle, and some kind of a stick to tap the sprue / cut the base after you pour each time. I make sure my molds are nice and hot by the time I start pouring by leaving them on the back of the pot as it warms up. something like a hot plate would be nice if you're planning to use more than one mold in a session.
 
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I'll make this as simple as possible, as you asked a complex question with many moving parts.
Slug your barrel.
Buy a sample pack of slugs that are made by Lee with dimensions matching your barrel groove diameter.
Shoot slugs at your zero distance. Pick slug that groups best.
Buy the winning Lee slug mould and accompanying equipment to make your own slugs.

View attachment Sonnyslugs_2.0.3.xlsx
 
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Go PID straight out of the gate. Seriously, get a pot with PID. I picked up the rcbs pot recently and zero regrets other than I should have gotten it first.

Get a propane trigger ignite plumbing torch for heating molds. All other methods take forever and never get the mold hot enough. Torch that sucker.

Propane camping stove or hot plate and an old cast iron pot. Welding gloves too. Use this for melting ingots and remelting sprues. Don't toss them in the pot... if you do the temp drops instantly and your casting is on hold until it warms up again.

With this setup you can be up and casting quickly and efficiently. Can also switch to another mold very quickly.

Other items:
Eye protection
Mold mallet
Tiny ladle for scooping out dross
sprue plate lube
Silicone mat to not damage boolits as they fall
Lee single press and sizing dies
1" micrometer. Not calipers.
Molten lead resistant clothing. Cotton kinda works. Synthetics not so much.
 
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If you already have an accurate shooter slug in a couple of designs, weights, lengths and diameter, it would be best to stick with that and replicate it. If you want to experiment with diameter, an inexpensive Lee sizing die and a few dozen boughten slugs can really help you with finding the right formula for buying the correct mold, with the correct diameter of dropped slug.
 
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All great info so far gentlemen. But I have more questions as I learn the terminology and such. Some mentioned "sizing die", why do I need that if bullet (slug) mold is sized for my needs to start with? Am I missing something that must be done post process? I've seen different lead melting pots online. Is one with the bottom pour feature better than scooping and pouring off the top? What does "PID" mean? I'm assuming some type of tempature sensor device to keep the lead at a constant temp? Has anybody ever tried to use old tire wheel weights melted down to make bullets?
What is "sprue plate lube"? Some kind of special grease or oil that's resistant to high temps? What do yall do about the fumes from the lead? Pour outside in front of a fan? These are just a few questions that come to my mind. I'm sure I'll have more.
I do certainly appreciate all the good information so far. Keep it coming fellows.

Thx
Ray
 
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ray1377 said:
Some mentioned "sizing die", why do I need that if bullet (slug) mold is sized for my needs to start with? Am I missing something that must be done post process?
Click to expand...
The size listed for a mold is more a suggestion. Pure lead, alloy, temp all change diameter. You are better off getting a sizer that is slightly small by a thousandth or so, they are not difficult to adjust in one ten thousandth steps, and unless you get expensive ones, the lee sizers are not necessarily the size they say they are exactly, I only use lee sizers and adjust them to exactly where I want them. People have been doing it forever.


ray1377 said:
What does "PID" mean?
Click to expand...
proportional integral something or other. a very fancy controller. Some say it is not required.... Unless you just don't care, or are an expert with lead, I personally would consider it a requirment.
 
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ray1377 said:
All great info so far gentlemen. But I have more questions as I learn the terminology and such. Some mentioned "sizing die", why do I need that if bullet (slug) mold is sized for my needs to start with? Am I missing something that must be done post process? I've seen different lead melting pots online. Is one with the bottom pour feature better than scooping and pouring off the top? What does "PID" mean? I'm assuming some type of tempature sensor device to keep the lead at a constant temp? Has anybody ever tried to use old tire wheel weights melted down to make bullets?
What is "sprue plate lube"? Some kind of special grease or oil that's resistant to high temps? What do yall do about the fumes from the lead? Pour outside in front of a fan? These are just a few questions that come to my mind. I'm sure I'll have more.
I do certainly appreciate all the good information so far. Keep it coming fellows.

Thx
Ray
Click to expand...
A PID is a digital controller that maintains temperature at some specific point. Keeps things more steady then the thermostats built into the pots. Occasionally hear about people wiring something up like this to their pots as a kind of modification.

to me it seems like an unnecessary complication that would be an obstacle to starting the process, even though would result in more uniformity in size. I would not let the lack of an added digital microcontroller keep you from diving in.

I'm just trying to enjoy myself though - not looking for supreme consistency, which maybe puts me in the "don't care" category as opposed to an expert with lead.
 
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You can buy a PID controller, thermocouple and solid state relay for under $30, that's what I did. I added a thermocouple socket for ease of use, a power cord and socket for the pot. Stuffed it in an ammo box to form a housing and convenient handle. If anyone is interested I can post the schematic for it. Wasn't very hard to wire. The PID will control the temperature and keep it at temperature. It has a digital temp reading for the set temp and the actual temperature.

If you cast indoors or are totally sheltered from any breezes, you can use a bottom pour pot. I found that I had to run the pot too hot, to avoid clogging the nozzle. It's a pain in the backside to clean it while hot. I ended up plugging the bottom pour and using a ladle. The ladle was far more tolerant to impurities than bottom pour, at least in my case. If a breeze kicked up, the bottom pour spout would freeze. If I was lucky I could use a torch to free it, otherwise had to use pliers and a paperclip to attempt to clear the clog.

This all happened with 99.9% from Rotometals. Other lead can be dirtier. Old wheel weights were a decent source of lead, the new ones usually are not suitable. Lead sheet is usually very pure, I bought some 99.9% flashing.
 
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100_1301-800x600 (1).jpg
 
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Here's some pics of my PID and melting pot. Not as nice as a slick all in one, but it works just fine. Front side, back side with the power cord, and socket for the melting pot and thermocouple. Lead pot with thermocouple type K. The TC sense element is connected under the pot using the nut that held the spout in place. Don't have to worry about the TC getting in the way, or being slowly attacked by molten lead. Standard 50 cal ammo box. The PID (Proportional Integral Derivative) controller is just the little square looking thing with the displays, just to the left of the lit rocker switch, on the first picture. 20lb Lee Magnum pot. Removed the mechanism for the down spout as it was in the way.
PXL_20240927_193847874.jpgPXL_20240927_193902103.jpgPXL_20240927_193942341.jpg
 
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How about some details on the best place to get bullet molds? I'm looking for something hollow point with a weight between 250gr and 350gr.
I've done a little net surfing but haven't found much in those weights. Seems like everything is 350gr and heavier.
Is there a good place to buy lead that's decent for bullet making at a reasonable price?

Thx
Ray
 
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New: Rotometals. Buy a half pig and get free shipping. You will get a guaranteed known metal. Think you can get blends there as well.
Elsewhere, search for closeouts.
Scrap plumbing lead? I found some lead sheet 99.9% on Amazon that wasn't outrageous. Needed it for something else, but have since melted some.

Casting larger caliber will force you to find less expensive sources. Buying in larger quantities will drop the price per lb. Prices vary between $4-$7/lb, if I recall correctly. Maybe less for surplus or scrap.
 
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ray1377 said:
How about some details on the best place to get bullet molds? I'm looking for something hollow point with a weight between 250gr and 350gr.
I've done a little net surfing but haven't found much in those weights. Seems like everything is 350gr and heavier.
Is there a good place to buy lead that's decent for bullet making at a reasonable price?

Thx
Ray
Click to expand...
Rotometals is fine. Price is tolerable, but not amazing. Molds from lee, arsenal molds, mp molds, accurate molds, noe molds. MP is the best bang for buck imo.
 
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