So a few days ago I noticed my R9 was starting to get a lot of "flyers" and was just shooting all over the place. I was pellet testing some but settled on the H&N FTT 8.64gr 4.50 head size. I had a sample pack of the different head sizes and it seemed to like those the best. Out of the box I had cleaned the barrel and started with some CPHP 7.9gr to break it in. Within a few shots at 10yds I started seeing some decent grouping and moved out to 20yds. Eventually I started testing and zeroed at 30 yards. All the pellets I tried were shooting decent groups but the FTTs were within a dime at 30yds rested on a sand bag. Once it began to shoot inaccurate I checked the stock screws and they all had come loose. Last night I removed the stock, and put loctite on the threads. This morning I cleaned the barrel with goo gone, the ran some dry patches through till clean. I was out of the FTT so I shot some CPHP at 10yds. It's pretty windy here in upstate NY but I tried to shoot between gusts. After about 50 rounds or so it is still shooting at random. I checked the scope mount, rings ect all check out. I am using a SWFA 10x42 fixed which is springer rated so I cant see that being an issue. I ordered some more FTTs and also a box of Crosman Premier 7.9gr to try out seeing that others had great results with them. Probably wont be able to shoot till next weekend now but any ideas that I over looked would be great! HELP! I love this rifle and wanted to try some Field Target in the spring, I wont even be able to hit the target, let alone the kill zone the way it is shooting now.
HELP! R9 Trouble
- Thread starter R9Airhead
- Start date
If I were still living in upstate NY id not want to be outside this time of year. I had a reminder on my FB page from 5 years ago where there was a lot of snow still on the ground and putting my truck up a ice pile to flex it out.
Upvote 0
Man i hate to tell you this"but sounds like a little over sized barrel?put a pellet in it at the breech and push it down slowly and in should make contact all the way through and the last couple of inchs should get tight,that's the chock.
Upvote 0
I'm taking it from your post that your R9 shot accurately at some point in, perhaps during the break in period. A couple ideas on things to check:
1. Check the scope - Your scope should never break, but that doesn't mean it hasn't. Sudden loss of accuracy would be the result. I have had this happen on my R9.
2. Barrel pivot tension - Check the tension for the barrel pivot bolt. Shouldn't be too tight or too loose
3. Breech seal - Possibly cut or leaking
4. Piston seal - Possibly defective or worn
5. Spring - Broken spring. Check to see if your gun making any unusual noises or feels differently when it's cocked.
My .22 R9 shoots many pellets ok, but only shoots the H&N FTT's really well.
1. Check the scope - Your scope should never break, but that doesn't mean it hasn't. Sudden loss of accuracy would be the result. I have had this happen on my R9.
2. Barrel pivot tension - Check the tension for the barrel pivot bolt. Shouldn't be too tight or too loose
3. Breech seal - Possibly cut or leaking
4. Piston seal - Possibly defective or worn
5. Spring - Broken spring. Check to see if your gun making any unusual noises or feels differently when it's cocked.
My .22 R9 shoots many pellets ok, but only shoots the H&N FTT's really well.
Upvote 0
Hammerhead ticked most of the boxes-one thing that will wreck accuracy is if the scope or mount is sliding. This is usually not an issue with the excellent scope stop holes in the compression tube and a stop pin scope mount. You can check for movement by drawing a pencil line for reference and watching to see if anything is sliding.
Upvote 0
A few comments.........
"the FTTs were within a dime at 30yds rested on a sand bag"
That's really good IMHO since I can't get my .177 Beeman R9 or .177 HW95 to group from sand bags! However when I sit on a "bucket" and rest the gun on cross sticks (hunter class field target style) my HWs shoot more consistently.........
"This morning I cleaned the barrel with goo gone, the ran some dry patches through till clean"
If the bore is "squeeky clean" it will take several pellets to stabilize the poi unless you want to go through the hassle of a bore clean every couple dozen shots.
"it began to shoot inaccurate I checked the stock screws and they all had come loose"
Loose stock screws is one of the MAIN causes of springer inaccuracy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v63d8PsklN0
The reason the stock screws can become loose is the fact that wood expands/contracts with changes in humidity so if adjustments are done during warm humid summer days the screws might be loose during the low humidity in the home during the winter months. Another issue may be over-torquing the screws which crushes the stock wood making it less stable.
According to Weihrauch the stock screw torque specifications are:
Front stock / rear trigger guard screws max. 2.5 Nm
Front trigger guard screw max. 5 Nm"
Nm converted into in-lbs & Ft Lbs:
2.5 Nm = 22.1 In Lbs = 1.8 Ft Lbs
5 Nm = 44.3 In Lbs = 3.7 Ft Lbs
I used these conversion charts and they might be of interest.......
http://www.convertunits.com/from/lbs+in/to/N+m
http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+lbs/to/foot+lbs
To solve these issues with my Beeman R9 and HW95 I turned some "posted screw cups" on my desk top lathe so that the screw heads are compressing on a steel sleeve around the screw instead of wood..........
LOL....I even put a steel post around my front trigger guard screw.........
By the way, I also put a bit of blue thread locker on my stock mounting screws even though I have no screw loosening without the struff.
"I am using a SWFA 10×42 fixed which is springer rated so I cant see that being an issue."
Try shooting with iron sights or another "known good scope". If the issue goes away then you know it's a "scope issue". Also, if you are indeed shooting from sand bags, make sure to place an open hand "palm up" between the sand bag and the stock forearm. Also, make sure the the butt of the stock isn't resting/touching the bench.
"the FTTs were within a dime at 30yds rested on a sand bag"
That's really good IMHO since I can't get my .177 Beeman R9 or .177 HW95 to group from sand bags! However when I sit on a "bucket" and rest the gun on cross sticks (hunter class field target style) my HWs shoot more consistently.........
"This morning I cleaned the barrel with goo gone, the ran some dry patches through till clean"
If the bore is "squeeky clean" it will take several pellets to stabilize the poi unless you want to go through the hassle of a bore clean every couple dozen shots.
"it began to shoot inaccurate I checked the stock screws and they all had come loose"
Loose stock screws is one of the MAIN causes of springer inaccuracy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v63d8PsklN0
The reason the stock screws can become loose is the fact that wood expands/contracts with changes in humidity so if adjustments are done during warm humid summer days the screws might be loose during the low humidity in the home during the winter months. Another issue may be over-torquing the screws which crushes the stock wood making it less stable.
According to Weihrauch the stock screw torque specifications are:
Front stock / rear trigger guard screws max. 2.5 Nm
Front trigger guard screw max. 5 Nm"
Nm converted into in-lbs & Ft Lbs:
2.5 Nm = 22.1 In Lbs = 1.8 Ft Lbs
5 Nm = 44.3 In Lbs = 3.7 Ft Lbs
I used these conversion charts and they might be of interest.......
http://www.convertunits.com/from/lbs+in/to/N+m
http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+lbs/to/foot+lbs
To solve these issues with my Beeman R9 and HW95 I turned some "posted screw cups" on my desk top lathe so that the screw heads are compressing on a steel sleeve around the screw instead of wood..........
LOL....I even put a steel post around my front trigger guard screw.........
By the way, I also put a bit of blue thread locker on my stock mounting screws even though I have no screw loosening without the struff.
"I am using a SWFA 10×42 fixed which is springer rated so I cant see that being an issue."
Try shooting with iron sights or another "known good scope". If the issue goes away then you know it's a "scope issue". Also, if you are indeed shooting from sand bags, make sure to place an open hand "palm up" between the sand bag and the stock forearm. Also, make sure the the butt of the stock isn't resting/touching the bench.
Upvote 0
I believe everyone covered everything either something loose of scope internally shifting it i a springier , I have had scope fail with them before .They are pretty violent just like a semi automatic centerfire , while Swfa is a tough scope , try shooting ith no scope or another . LOU
Upvote 0
If you have done all the above suggestions and found everything on the up and up, remember this. The 177 is a small pellet with not such a high ballistic coefficient. It does not take much wind to throw it off base.
I actually sent a scope back for repair a few years ago because I thought it was broken. The actual problem was what I call a "ghost wind." One that didn't show up in tree movement but was definitely there and just enough to give me grief.
If all else fails, wait for a completely calm time and try again.
I actually sent a scope back for repair a few years ago because I thought it was broken. The actual problem was what I call a "ghost wind." One that didn't show up in tree movement but was definitely there and just enough to give me grief.
If all else fails, wait for a completely calm time and try again.
Upvote 0
LOL......even the shooter can have "ghost wind" at times. For example, I've had a "sick" .177 R9 "cure itself" over night without doing anything. It was simply a matter of fact that I had a "bad shooting form day" followed with a "good shooting form day". With a recoiling springer shooting form consistency is key and at times I'm not too consistent.
Here is a casual target I shot a while back checking out the trajectory (not group size) of a certain tune. Since I know I'm not the most consistent shooter I shot three 5 shot bulls at each distance from 10 yards to 30 yards and two 50 shot groups (165 consecutive shots). LOL...sitting on a bucket resting the gun on cross sticks I had weird things happening like one 45 yard group that was almost as tight as the 30 yard groups.......
The bulls are a 1/4" diameter inside a 1/2" diameter circle. The heavy dashed lines are 1" apart. The light dashed lines from 13 yards to 50 yards are 1/4". The light dashed lines from 10 yards to 13 yards are 1/8" apart,
Here is a casual target I shot a while back checking out the trajectory (not group size) of a certain tune. Since I know I'm not the most consistent shooter I shot three 5 shot bulls at each distance from 10 yards to 30 yards and two 50 shot groups (165 consecutive shots). LOL...sitting on a bucket resting the gun on cross sticks I had weird things happening like one 45 yard group that was almost as tight as the 30 yard groups.......
The bulls are a 1/4" diameter inside a 1/2" diameter circle. The heavy dashed lines are 1" apart. The light dashed lines from 13 yards to 50 yards are 1/4". The light dashed lines from 10 yards to 13 yards are 1/8" apart,
Upvote 0