Hello. I just bought Hatsan Torpedo 150 Sniper spring-piston airgun. Main spring is completely dry and it's brownish color (rusted lightly?) as shown in the picture. Is there any way this could be normal? Is it safe to use as it is? Should I return it to the retailer? Or should I fix it myself (It's a new gun so I feel I shouldn't have to). Instruction manual has year 2008 written on it, so this gun may have been in storage, who knows where, for 13 years? Any thoughts are most welcome. Thank you.
Tuning Help, rusty main spring on new Hatsan?
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Safe yes. Greased no. The tube might be the same. Grease it up is all I recommend. It ain't a gem anyway.
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Yeah, not a gem, more like a rock. 
Is there any way to add some grease to the main-spring and the tube (temporarily) without taking the gun apart? Maybe some Moly spray through the hole where the spring is visible? Gun feels ”dry” and I feel like some lubricant is needed, but I don't feel like taking it apart just yet, because after few hundred shots I'm planning on doing a full maintenance anyway, if I decide to keep the gun. So should I just shoot the gun as it is, or how should I add (temporarily) some lubricant without taking the gun apart and without making things worse? Thanks.
Is there any way to add some grease to the main-spring and the tube (temporarily) without taking the gun apart? Maybe some Moly spray through the hole where the spring is visible? Gun feels ”dry” and I feel like some lubricant is needed, but I don't feel like taking it apart just yet, because after few hundred shots I'm planning on doing a full maintenance anyway, if I decide to keep the gun. So should I just shoot the gun as it is, or how should I add (temporarily) some lubricant without taking the gun apart and without making things worse? Thanks.Upvote 0
Try blowing some compress air down in there. Just to help remove the loose dust particles.
The swab some grease on it best you can.
BTW.Have you ran a patch through the barrel ?
The swab some grease on it best you can.
BTW.Have you ran a patch through the barrel ?
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Pyramyd Air sells something called 'tune in a tube' that you apply through the cocking slot with the action removed from the stock. I've heard it helps tame the twang most springers have. You squirt it on the spring coils with a nozzle that comes with it as I understand. I'm thinking of giving it a try myself. It doesn't take much.
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I looked into the barrel. It's not rusty and looks OK. Didn't clean it yet, but I will before shooting. Transfer port of the compression chamber is covered in thick oil. I guess I'll clean that too.
Maybe my main concern is this: Is it normal that a new gun has a rusty main-spring and what problems might it cause? And if the gun has been sitting in a forsaken storage for 13 years, what other problems that might bring along?
”Tune in a tube” sounds like a great option. I live in Finland so I have to try to find where to buy it. It's nearly impossible to even find chamber oil, moly paste or anything here. I found a product called ”Birchwood Casey Moly Lube” spray for airguns. Could it work anything close to ”Tune in a tube” if I sprayed that in through the cocking slot?
Maybe my main concern is this: Is it normal that a new gun has a rusty main-spring and what problems might it cause? And if the gun has been sitting in a forsaken storage for 13 years, what other problems that might bring along?
”Tune in a tube” sounds like a great option. I live in Finland so I have to try to find where to buy it. It's nearly impossible to even find chamber oil, moly paste or anything here. I found a product called ”Birchwood Casey Moly Lube” spray for airguns. Could it work anything close to ”Tune in a tube” if I sprayed that in through the cocking slot?
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"slot tune" applying correct lube into the slot your looking at.
Try here for time proven sthuff. https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251484.htm
Sitting that long perhaps order a piston seal also?
John
Try here for time proven sthuff. https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251484.htm
Sitting that long perhaps order a piston seal also?
John
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"... Could it work anything close to ”Tune in a tube” if I sprayed that in through the cocking slot?..."
Check to see that it is rust and not preservative grease which is an amber/brown color - may be dried grease. Beeman used to sell a very thick red grease - bearing grease for mainspring use; ARH sells "tar", a heavy grease, which has moly in it - moly spray won't do much unless the mainspring is rubbing on the wall of the tube. The heavy grease stays on the spring through the stresses and jolts of firing and it slows and dampens the the spring. A dry spring can break or shatter under those stresses so lather it up. Clean all the lube from inside the barrel, breech face to prevent contamination and dieseling which you will get for the first 100 or so pellets fired then it will start to calm down - you will smell it as burning oil...that's the break in period.
Check to see that it is rust and not preservative grease which is an amber/brown color - may be dried grease. Beeman used to sell a very thick red grease - bearing grease for mainspring use; ARH sells "tar", a heavy grease, which has moly in it - moly spray won't do much unless the mainspring is rubbing on the wall of the tube. The heavy grease stays on the spring through the stresses and jolts of firing and it slows and dampens the the spring. A dry spring can break or shatter under those stresses so lather it up. Clean all the lube from inside the barrel, breech face to prevent contamination and dieseling which you will get for the first 100 or so pellets fired then it will start to calm down - you will smell it as burning oil...that's the break in period.
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There is reddish substance on the piston seal (I looked in through the transfer port of the compression chamber) and there is also reddish oil on the cocking arm release button. So it may not be rusty, but all the lubricant on the main spring has turned to ”dust”?! I rubbed the main spring with wooden stick and brownish ”dust” comes off quite easily. Under the ”reddish dust” the spring is a clear metal color. Hmmm... I'm still not sure what to do. So I quess my options are 1: Clean it, try to add some grease on the spring, shoot it, and hope the mostly dry spring won't snap. 2: Disassemble it (loosing warranty) and give it proper lubrication and maybe new piston seal. 3: Return it and get my money back.
(Btw, this topic was moved to ”PCP - Tuning and repair”, it might fit better in ”Springer - Tuning and repair”. Thanks.)
(Btw, this topic was moved to ”PCP - Tuning and repair”, it might fit better in ”Springer - Tuning and repair”. Thanks.)
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When purchasing a new gun of this type a reasonable expectation would be: No cosmetic damage or flaws; Remove the factory applied preservative from all surfaces; Clean the barrel and lubricate all joints then wipe down exposed metal with a thin coat of oil. Check basic operation/safety; etc. then go use it and test for function and accuracy. If you have a "gut" feeling that you have received something less than you paid for, you'll never be happy so return it.
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Build date is the first 4 numbers on the left side of the breech block...something like 02 16 or similar. Will give you an idea how old the rifle is. Simple lube tune through the cocking slot can be done easily enough with the above mentioned Air Venturi Tune in a Tube, moly paste and a brush small enough to fit in there or I've seen where some shooters lump some moly on something like a zip tie and help spread it farther inside. Once done, shooting helps spread it around.
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First four numbers are 0120. Does this mean the gun is actually manufactured in January 2020?
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I got an answer from my local official Hatsan repairer. He said all Hatsan springs look like that and it's normal. He couldn't tell me why they are all covered with reddish dust, but he said they are meant to be dry and without any lubrication. So is covering springs with brown dust something Hatsan does these days for all their springs? I know some people prefer dry springs and I get that, but brown dust... What could be the purpose of the rust like ”dust” on the spring?
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Yes. As far as supposed to look like that I can't honestly say. Been a couple years since I bought a Hatsan so maybe they have some new type of dry lube they use on their internal parts??? Also never heard of the Birchwood Casey spray lube you mentioned so again, can't honestly say whether it will work well or not.
Last rifle I bought from Hatsan was a refurbished Hatsan AirTact .25 with the intent to try sticking a Hatsan Vortex gas ram in and this is what I found once I got it open. Looks like a combination of your rusty brown stuff or just flat bone dry along with whatever the clumpy gunk that's also on there.
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Thank you everyone! I'm just gonna go shoot the gun and if it doesn't work properly I'll reconsider what to do with it. If it works ok I'll leave it as it is. Maybe the reddish brown rusty dusty clumpy gunk works just fine.
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Hatsan actually works surprisingly nicely. I especially like the trigger. I shot a couple of dozen pellets (Predator Polymags) from 20 and 40 yards, and groups (five shot groups) were the size of a matchbox. Good enough for me. It's not too hard to cock for me (and I'm not a big guy). Pellets went through an inch thick pine plank and dented the next plank behind it. Pellets also went through five layers of thin metal. Ok power I think, though I expected a bit more from a gun this heavy. Maybe it will give more power in summer when it's not freezing cold like it was when I was shooting.
I added experimental scope mounts so I can aim with ironsights or with a scope (the cheapest airgun scope you can find).
There is some problem with the anti bear-trap safety mechanism. It jams sometimes, I don't know why. I have to use it more to find out what's going on. The gun also spills out oily stuff from the compression chamber port and from the back of the tube where the spring is located. The spring still seems completely dry but there is generous amount of lubricant somewhere (around the piston probably?).
I added experimental scope mounts so I can aim with ironsights or with a scope (the cheapest airgun scope you can find).
There is some problem with the anti bear-trap safety mechanism. It jams sometimes, I don't know why. I have to use it more to find out what's going on. The gun also spills out oily stuff from the compression chamber port and from the back of the tube where the spring is located. The spring still seems completely dry but there is generous amount of lubricant somewhere (around the piston probably?).
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