HFT Scope Holde Over

[oldsparky]

I am shooting a 177 Wolverine 10.34 JSB 900fps. I have been using a scope with 1 mil dot reticle. It was still a lot of Kentucky windage splitting distance between dots. I mounted a Hawke 1/2 mil 6-20 today. I sighted in at 30 I will include a crude drawing of my holdovers I wish my 40,45 was on the hash mark and the 55 was on the dot. I still feel like I am guessing some because of splitting dots. I will play with it a little tomorrow. But wondered if I may get an idea tonight on the forum. How could I get this easier? By sighting the 55 to the dot? 

 

[Odoyle]

You need to borrow someone's 4.5-27x50 (if no 16x limit) or the 2.5-15x50 (if the 16x limit is enforced) Alpha6 scope judging by the need of clearly useable holdover reference points specifically based on your needs based on what I see and hard to holdover in between the reference marks.

 

[Motorhead]

Above pics are showing HOLD UNDER ....

In Field Target we zero at pellet flight APEX which generally falls in the 24-28 yard distances. In closer as well out farther from your ZERO, your HOLD OVER which has the horizontal cross hair ABOVE your target. Closer you move IN from zero the HOLD OVER INCREASES and does the same in reverse having HOLD OVER INCREASE further out you go.

 

[Odoyle]

That's exactly right but just merely showing pictures of what the reticle Looks like.

That was a good one!

 

[steve123]

I am shooting a 177 Wolverine 10.34 JSB 900fps. I have been using a scope with 1 mil dot reticle. It was still a lot of Kentucky windage splitting distance between dots. I mounted a Hawke 1/2 mil 6-20 today. I sighted in at 30 I will include a crude drawing of my holdovers I wish my 40,45 was on the hash mark and the 55 was on the dot. I still feel like I am guessing some because of splitting dots. I will play with it a little tomorrow. But wondered if I may get an idea tonight on the forum. How could I get this easier? By sighting the 55 to the dot? 

It just comes down to practicing with your 1/2 mil scope. But keep in mind that if it's SFP scope the hashes will change in mil value depending on the magnification you have it on. 

Half of .5 mil is .25 mil which is slightly over 2 clicks worth of hold. .25 mil at 40Y is about .4". Usually the waver of me and my rifle, how steady I can hold it, is more of a problem than that .4". Or .45" at 50Y. Throw in windage needed and that .4" is getting lost in the noise for holding over/off.

Even still, we can discern .1 mil with a little practice. 

Well and this exactly why I like reticles with ALL .2 mil hashes in them because seeing .1 mil becomes easy and is a non issue. 

Also why I like FFP so I don't have to think about which magnification I'm on. 

 

[oldsparky]

I have been able to shoot this with the Hawke scope quite a bit now. I was very reluctant buying this scope. I have heard a lot of people knocking the brand. And I have not had great luck with inexpensive optics. But I really like this scope so far. The parallax seems to come in and out of focus in a short range making me think it will be good for ranging. The reticle is nice and crisp I wish it was a little bolder, but its pretty good for my eyes. One feature I l really ilke for a inexpensive scope is the focus lock ring. I don't care for the fast focus eye pieces at all.

I had it in my mind to use even yardages. I was thinking 20 -30 -35 -40 and so on but once I realized the reticle marks are constant and even if they are on a uneven yardage lie 47 yards who cares???? Seems like I was getting tunnel vision in that area. My dope card was a mess. I think I needed a slap upside the melon. 

 

[FrankinFairfield]

You need to borrow someone's 4.5-27x50 (if no 16x limit) or the 2.5-15x50 (if the 16x limit is enforced) Alpha6 scope judging by the need of clearly useable holdover reference points specifically based on your needs based on what I see and hard to holdover in between the reference marks.

HFT shooters know there is a 16X limit.

If a POS shoots at a higher magnification and “I” am aware of it “I” will make sure everyone else is aware of it, too!

I know at some local matches, the rules are over-looked.

 

[scotton]

If you are finding yourself in a quarter-dot situation quite often, find another place to aim. If I am looking at a 1 1/4 dot hold over, it is easier to aim 1 dot low at the top edge of the kill zone instead of trying to aim at the middle of the kill zone between a dot and a dot and a half. And remember that for the close and far targets, you aren't shooting a laser beam. You are shooting a catapult. The pellet is rising on it's way to the zero and falling past the zero. So on in-between dot shots, it tend to aim at the bottom of the kill zone on close targets so that the fudge factor is upwards, and the top edge of far targets since my misses tend to be low.