Homebuilt airguns
- Thread starter aldea6
- Start date
Awesome work. That's the kind of design I would like to build . I share the same idea than you about the valve behind the pellet, but I would like to change the design of the valve itself .I think that the poppet valve is very obstructive for a clean airflow; I'm looking for something that could be fully open , a bit like the 1/4 turn faucet for water lines . I wonder if a little electro-valve could do the job . I think that Daystate get that system on the Redwolf.....so we have to find something else if we want to be innovative 
. I prefer a mechanical system but at this time I don't have a very clear idea about this .Upvote 0
The trigger was from a Diana 48 and the barrel was a 20 cal Walther. the rest I built. I liked the pro sport so I decided to build one the best I could.
It did shoot good at 850 ft per second with a 14 gr pellet. I finally bought a air arms pro sport and gave this one to a friend of mine he was always after it, I have built quite a few powder burner rifles, But this was the first air rifle. Steve!
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very cool..
What size tube did you use , and what piston did you make .. any more pics of internals.. This is what I’m talking about.. it’s about all I do now.
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Sorry AGR it was about 15 years ago and no pictures, all I can remember is that I used the 48 chamber and made the piston used the 48 spring and buttoned everything and it was very smooth shooting, I cannot remember the size of the tube I used I remember it was slightly bigger than the 48 only a few thousands that is why I buttoned it.
Thats about all I can remember getting old and memory is not at its best anymore. Steve!
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This is a very simple shematic drawing of what I would call a "direct flow airgun" . All the usual parts of a PCP are there , the only difference is the electro-valve system instead of the poppet valve which , in theory, should give a better air passage . All this is only theory, I don't know if it's realistic , realisable or even if it has sone interest.
So the gun will be single shot , hand loaded like a springer. The trigger is only an electrical switch to open the electro-valve.
I need some deep thinking about this idea to see if it's really worthwhile .
Waiting your opinions...
So the gun will be single shot , hand loaded like a springer. The trigger is only an electrical switch to open the electro-valve.
I need some deep thinking about this idea to see if it's really worthwhile .
Waiting your opinions...
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Some details of the electro valve and what operating pressure past the reg are needed. Most electrical solenoids will only operate at lower pressures.
Dave
Dave
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Hi dave , sure , a lot of problems are to be solved . High pressure electr-valve is not a problem . One like this could make the job , 250bars max. pres.
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Yeah, the details in this type of valve is very important. I’ve researched quite a few (admittedly not all) and haven’t found something fit for purpose in this application.
Scott (previous post) has quite a bit of experience (and working gun) using electric control. I too have a working electric control system.
I highly encourage this type of designing and sharing of ideas. And having a place to share ideas helps keep innovation going.
Dave
Scott (previous post) has quite a bit of experience (and working gun) using electric control. I too have a working electric control system.
I highly encourage this type of designing and sharing of ideas. And having a place to share ideas helps keep innovation going.
Dave
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I sent a PM to Michael to see if creating a forum dedicated to airguns homebuilding was possible . Wait and see....
About the valve , I've selected the first I found which could sustain 250 bar. I think the outlet thread is 1/8 BSP , but I can make any reducer needed. Controling the opening time is crucial and for this an electronic device will be necessary , so a call to Scott will be helpful
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1/8 BSP may be the connection thread and that’s fine, but the orifice diameter will likely be a limiting factor. Before you go further with a valve like that, you need to find out the maximum operating pressure, which you have, AND the orifice size, which you have yet to do.
Opening time (dwell) is another issue.
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Yes , a lot of things to think about before machining the first part. It's certainly not a week-end project.....
About the orifice size , I think it will be the same size of the barrel bore , to keep a smooth air flow to the pellet . Smaller will create a restriction and wider will probably give some turbulences.
.About the orifice size , I think it will be the same size of the barrel bore , to keep a smooth air flow to the pellet . Smaller will create a restriction and wider will probably give some turbulences.
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I looked into that type of valve for airgun applications. For that type of valve with an orifice sized equal to the barrel bore, and at 250 bar, the valve would be huge.Yes , a lot of things to think about before machining the first part. It's certainly not a week-end project....
About the orifice size , I think it will be the same size of the barrel bore , to keep a smooth air flow to the pellet . Smaller will create a restriction and wider will probably give some turbulences.
The maximum orifice size shown for that small valve is 3.0mm. And I think that might be for the 100 bar version.
Power limit will be pressure x orifice area. That small valve can’t match the flow rate of a typical airgun poppit valve.
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I know you are trying for a ‘full flow’ valve with the least amount of turbulence. Putting a poppet directly behind the projectile with no stem in the flow path can easily create a full flow path. Any gains from there created by decreasing turbulence will be modest.
As Scott mentioned, valves that can withstand the pressure and are currently available for purchase are quite large. This leaves us designing our own, more compact solutions.
Dave
As Scott mentioned, valves that can withstand the pressure and are currently available for purchase are quite large. This leaves us designing our own, more compact solutions.
Dave
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So how does the Leshiy 2 work, is it electronic control? I know it's a hammerless direct to valve design, but is it a mechanically or electronically controlled system?
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