Homemade bigbore 50.

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Wow even more impressive a short barrel with those kind of speeds!!Texans run 34inch barrels to get fps.... Green Mountain does seem to make a barrel better than it should be for the price... Helium is 30% faster if you wanna make any world record airgun fps recordsšŸ˜ From experience with my 50 Texan recoil is really hard on mounting anything to the frame. Lots of vibrations like really big powder burners.. Your rig with 650s will recoil like 12 gauge slug.. I have found with the .510 diameter slugs under 300 grain have no B.C after 100 yards the 450 grain slugs fly just as flat with much .more powder. I think my next airgun will be from youšŸ˜ I.gotta.start saving money... Keep up the good.work
 
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Reedmosser said:
Wow even more impressive a short barrel with those kind of speeds!!Texans run 34inch barrels to get fps.... Green Mountain does seem to make a barrel better than it should be for the price... Helium is 30% faster if you wanna make any world record airgun fps recordsšŸ˜ From experience with my 50 Texan recoil is really hard on mounting anything to the frame. Lots of vibrations like really big powder burners.. Your rig with 650s will recoil like 12 gauge slug.. I have found with the .510 diameter slugs under 300 grain have no B.C after 100 yards the 450 grain slugs fly just as flat with much .more powder. I think my next airgun will be from youšŸ˜ I.gotta.start saving money... Keep up the good.work
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I do have some 388 grain Nielsens' that I've yet to put through the chronograph but they do have much more recoil than these 250's. I'm considering using sabots as well. I made it to take different caliber change barrels and I'm curious to see what I can push a smaller caliber at.
 
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TheBeardedGunsmith said:
I couldn't find any info on the valve design of my hammer and didn't have the nerve to open up my brand new gun. I just did as much research as I could online of air valves that can dump large volumes of air quickly. The first valve that I designed wasn't a balance valve. It worked well but required way too much force to open it, and that's when I learned about the balance valves. It was the most difficult part to machine of everything.
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Yea that isnā€™t a valve most would choose to make for their first airgun. I asked if you used the hammerā€™s valve because it is also a balanced valve. You should take a look at it, the hammer is a lot easier to take apart than you think.
 
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N.O.E molds has a really nice .257 112 grain mold with a really modern design B.C like .4. Also.for a 30 cal Lee make a 230grain basically VLD designed .6 B.C.. Availability of molds kinda dictates caliber. So a 10 twist .257 green mountain barrel and a 30 cal green mountain barrel 7 twist. With that powder I'd go high B.C fast twists.. You need to buy a cold shot Moab adjustable base now!!!!!!Your going to need to shoot those fast high B.C slugs real far...144 mils will.get you way out there. I.definitely want see 30 cal 7 twist. Think green mountain has them on sale lol no pressure. I'd like you to try 650's when your ready. They are basically the standard647 grain ball ammo in a cast design. They shoot in the windšŸ˜„
 
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I'm awaiting the warm weather to officially put it on paper. I've shot it at 25 yards and it groups tight but I don't consider that much of a distance to really get a feel for accuracy. I'm also wanting to see if my bullet drop matches what I've come up with on a ballistic calculator that the same friend that cast the 250 grain slugs came up with. I'm definitely going to have to cast my own though because the .510 diameter bullets aren't cheap from what I've found so far.
 
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TheBeardedGunsmith said:
Yeah its definitely a proof of concept platform more than anything. The clamp is really the only thing mechanically hokey. It's difficult to build pretty guns.
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Wasn't trying to put it down or your work, I apologize if it came off that way. I just know the kind of power it's putting out and I'd be a little nervous to handle it at first.

Maybe slip a bracket under the barrel that goes down around the tube and has a set screw on the bottom side so when it's tightened down, it'll pull that all together. That would eliminate the hose clamp and clean it up alot.

A nice powder coat in black would finish it off well.

Does the side lever breech also cock the hammer, or is that done via the side slot in the tube?
 
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TheBeardedGunsmith said:
Short video clip

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Yeah, that's awesome! I hope you didn't just shoot through your wall!

I see how you have the clamp setup now. Can you machine a bracket that attaches to the top of the breech and goes down around the tube and do the set screw tensioning deal like I mentioned? I think thats totally doable. Could even make it a picatinny side rail for lights or maybe an ammo holder?
 
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Boostcreep said:
Yeah, that's awesome! I hope you didn't just shoot through your wall!

I see how you have the clamp setup now. Can you machine a bracket that attaches to the top of the breech and goes down around the tube and do the set screw tensioning deal like I mentioned? I think thats totally doable. Could even make it a picatinny side rail for lights or maybe an ammo holder?
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I actually added a mount since I made that video. It's the mount that the hose clamp is going through but I have an idea for a permanent way to afix it that will look good.
 
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Don't mind my temporary pins in my side lever

20230308_223504.jpg


20230308_223446.jpg
 
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