Homemade PCP receiver
- Thread starter bsahogger
- Start date
Exactly, drill chuck shanks have Jacobs taper and not reliable for side loads when milling. Don't
Another thing, don't run a keyless chuck in reverse. It will get tight as a bull's arse. You'll have fun getting your chuck loosened.
Nice work, M
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Ha! Don’t worry, I do it from time to time myself out of convenience and I seem to be getting along just fine, lol. You do you.
I think if you come up with a tubular solenoid, you could design to be able to switch between spring/solenoid type hammers. Solenoid city has the best selection, albeit pricey.
Dave
I think if you come up with a tubular solenoid, you could design to be able to switch between spring/solenoid type hammers. Solenoid city has the best selection, albeit pricey.
Dave
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Agreed, I'm a huge fan of chucking reamers also, if you have them, rigid is good, keeps the runout down.
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I'm not a fan of the chuck but if you checked the TIR of the chuck first with a ground dowel rod you should be 'ok'.Ok ok, collets only from now on (or I'll crop the chuck outta the pic if I use it again)
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Got going on the bolt today. I decided to use a Crosman bolt that comes with their steel breech, since it fits the back of the barrel that I'm using. Quick drill & ream into the main bolt:
Cross drill/tap for the bolt handle (no collets for tapping! I prefer it if the tap can slip in the chuck if things awry):
Decided to give the front part of the bolt a little set screw:
Bolt complete for now, I'll make a fancy knob for it at some stage:
With bolt in place gun can now shoot. I flick a 1/4" rod into the back of the receiver to hit the pintle:
First group at 7yds, already looking better than my FX Dreamline. One pop with the 1/4 rod, bottom hole, then a harder pop, top hole:
Small issue which ended shooting session, the second shot went through the 3/4" plywood. I'll have to rig a decent back stop:
Sorry, but if your manometer doesn't glow in the dark we can no longer be friends:
Cross drill/tap for the bolt handle (no collets for tapping! I prefer it if the tap can slip in the chuck if things awry):
Decided to give the front part of the bolt a little set screw:
Bolt complete for now, I'll make a fancy knob for it at some stage:
With bolt in place gun can now shoot. I flick a 1/4" rod into the back of the receiver to hit the pintle:
First group at 7yds, already looking better than my FX Dreamline
. One pop with the 1/4 rod, bottom hole, then a harder pop, top hole:Small issue which ended shooting session, the second shot went through the 3/4" plywood. I'll have to rig a decent back stop:
Sorry, but if your manometer doesn't glow in the dark we can no longer be friends:
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Very cool!… I tap on the Bridgeport too…always square, and works great!…looking forward to seeing the finished product. John
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Didn't have much time today but did manage to get the pic rails on. Got some tubular solenoids on order, once they come in I'll bore the hammer port larger to accept said solenoids, then the experimentation with the electronics shall commence.
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With a metal working machine or two at your disposal, why not take that experiment a little bit further and press fit the FX barrel liner in a machined aluminum tube (with the end machined to the barrel's o-ring and receiver specs)? That would eliminate barrel liner whip and allow it to attach to the experimental receiver and also the Drreamline.
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I personally don't know of anyone that would be able to machine (ream) the inside of an aluminum tube over that length to that kind of accuracy. Also, the FX 'liners' are twisted so the OD is not smooth, that would make a press fit difficult.
Bottom line when it comes to FX Dreamline POI shifts is this: FX made the thing as cheaply as possible, worse than low end guns like Marauders. The gun does not have a barrel, it has a flimsy little tube, supported by comical little plastic discs. I've even read reports of the .177 barrels being cracked open the inside due to the tight twisting when they form the grooves. Rip the whole barrel assembly out, toss it, fit a steel barrel with at least a 5/8" OD & you'll shoot dime size groups at 50yds all day, no POI shifts.
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I wouldn't necessarily go for superior straitness or precision press fitting. Just a decently strait and tight enough sleeve fit that the application of sleeve adhesive would lock up both metals rigidly upon curing. I'd bet that it would be comparable to these guys putting FX liner's into these carbon sleeves, whose internal straitness are not precision ground like the outside dimension, or the gunsmith who reams out an old barrel for a new liner. Can't be any worse than the factory straw...
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Bingo.
FX peddles cheap junk for exorbitant money.
They used to make guns with real barrels.....
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Yep, they figured out that if you make a quality rifle folk will have no reason to buy another. Now they make as many models as possible (more than any other manufacturer), engineered as poorly as possible, then regularly bring out a "new" version of each model (Mk1, Mk2, Mk3 blah blah). So you have a current version of a model & you realize it has flaws, but hey you can't wait to sell it in order to buy the "new improved" version. Hey as long as folk fall for it & they sell lotsa their junk rifles, good for them.
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Busy week, just now finally having time to bore out the receiver to accept the solenoid which arrives today. Think I know how I'm going to do the stock, that'll probably have to wait until next week.
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You discussed an electronic hammer. I’ve done a few builds with electronic hammers and settled on a circuit configuration that I now use on all of them. I use solenoids from Circuit City (Magnetic Sensor Systems). My circuit design is shown below and a link to the solenoid that I prefer:
SOTUH02305106P - -S-20-90-22H
The circuit that I use is analog (no computer). The hammer strike can be controlled three ways. A mechanical stroke adjustment can be built into the design. Stroke of 1/8” to 1/2” is a good adjustment range. A higher energy hammer strike with the longer stroke might use more capacitance. Increased capacitance can also increase dwell. For on the fly hammer adjustments, the dc-dc boost converter has an output voltage adjustment pot.
By default, the circuit allows multi cycling, like a semi auto, but unless we have an auto loader mechanism, we don’t want that. So I have an electrically latched relay in the circuit so that the on/safe switch must be cycled each shot. It’s like an auto safety so that you can’t accidentally fire it multiple times.
SOTUH02305106P - -S-20-90-22H
The circuit that I use is analog (no computer). The hammer strike can be controlled three ways. A mechanical stroke adjustment can be built into the design. Stroke of 1/8” to 1/2” is a good adjustment range. A higher energy hammer strike with the longer stroke might use more capacitance. Increased capacitance can also increase dwell. For on the fly hammer adjustments, the dc-dc boost converter has an output voltage adjustment pot.
By default, the circuit allows multi cycling, like a semi auto, but unless we have an auto loader mechanism, we don’t want that. So I have an electrically latched relay in the circuit so that the on/safe switch must be cycled each shot. It’s like an auto safety so that you can’t accidentally fire it multiple times.
Tubular Pull solenoid, S-20-90-H page 1, Magnetic Sensor Systems
MSS Tubular Push Solenoid
www.solenoidcity.com
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