How do you clean your RAW’s poly barrel?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
igolfat8

igolfat8

Member
Oct 7, 2018
3,449
3,157
67
OH, United States
When my .22 LRT was new I got zero fliers. Now my accuracy has gone to crap and I’m getting a lot of fliers. I clean faithfully every 50-75 shots using a Patch Worm and patches wetted with bicycle chain wax then lube my MRDs with spray beeswax which I allow to dry thoroughly before using. I’m thinking it’s either my cleaning solvent or beeswax or the combination of the two may be causing my fliers? These poly barrels foul quickly and I typically see a lot of silver sparkles during cleaning. I need to try something different so I’m open to suggestions that is working for you.

I remember receiving a paper from AOA with a Red Wolf that I used to own, that suggested lubing pellets if you are shooting above 900 FPS. My current RAW tune is 949 so that’s why I’m lubing my 25.4’s.
 
Poly barrels should foul quite a bit less than traditional land & groove barrels. If you have a lot of build up I'd remove the barrel and hit it with a Dewey rod/brass jag + JB Bore paste then JB bore bright. 

rsfrid offered good advice. Alternatively, if you don't have a rod/jag/brush or don't trust yourself, then I'd pull the barrel off and use your Patchworm and Kroil to dislodge the fouling. 

I use Gunzilla as a lube on all my pellets regardless of speed. But yes if you're shooting over 920 fps I'd definitely recommend a lube.

-Michael
 
Upvote 0
IMO, any barrel that fouls to the degree mentioned here, needs to be cleaned with a rod and brush. There is no breech seal in a RAW, so no worry there. Since we're dealing with only soft lead, powerful solvents aren't needed. As to the poly vs traditional rifling and fouling, I don't know. From my handgun experience, poly barrels and lead bullets fouled more than conventional rifling. I expect that might depend on the specific bore profile more than any inherent traits of either process. In the hangun barrels I mentioned, I think the bullet obturation sealed the bore faster and tighter than most conventional barrels, thus heat and lead transfer occurred more readily. Those barrels were designed for jacketed bullets.

To the OP, if a good cleaning doesn't solve your accuracy problem, it is very possible that the hammer assembly needs cleaning and lightly lubing. A dirty hammer assembly in the RAW can cause this exact result. The maker recommended to me a light lubrication with synthetic oil.
 
Upvote 0
I never had a leading problem with my poly barrel. I cleaned it with a couple of patches moistened with Ballistol, then dry patches. Usually no more than 3 each. I tried lubed vs dry patches. No differenct IMO. Ditch the wax. Oh, if you haven't cleaned the hammer, do so. Sometimes it gets greasy which affects the uniformity of it's travel. Lube it with a very light coat of a very light oil.

Here's the assembly sequence:

TM Hammer Stack.1651760073.jpg

 
Upvote 0
I use a Patchworm kit with felt buttons and Ballistol then dry patches, but, have had my barrel polished. After a tin or so shot through, my barrel is not very "dirty". As long as your accuracy is there, I wouldn't be too overly concerned. As Michael pointed out, polygonal barrels should not lead up as quickly as regular barrels due to them having smoother less aggressive lands. I do not lube my pellets. Keep shooting it, it will smooth out most imperfections all barrels have.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu