Any process or tips you do to better your out of the tin pellets or any projectile like a wash, sort, lubes, ect..
How do you get the most out of your pellets
- Thread starter Hateful McNasty
- Start date
I sort by weight occasionally but thats about it. If one feels particularly off when I load it, I'll either shoot it away or put it on a spinner instead of paper.
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I’ve tried all the above and not had any success worth my efforts. I think the more you handle pellets, the more likely you are to somehow damage them more than they were. Weighing is probably the easiest way to sort the really bad ones out but in my experience it’s not been worth it. The precision target shooters will probably have the best input.
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I did all the above and finally settled with resizing to barrel/liner. Don't forget to polish the skirt bottom cone edges...
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Take pellet out of tin, shoot rifle. 
job done.
To be honest, a light barrel polish has always helped, less pellet fussy.
job done.To be honest, a light barrel polish has always helped, less pellet fussy.
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When used for competition ... SKIRT truing.
* This IS NOT flaring or increasing diameter, it is making sure the Roundness and angles are uniform.
* This IS NOT flaring or increasing diameter, it is making sure the Roundness and angles are uniform.
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You can also use the head (dome) of a like pellet to "true" the skirts! Not as precise as the tool Motorhead mentioned but works great in the field!
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I tend to just send them. Usually using 16gr aa dome pellets. Even if deformed, accuracy suffers so very little if any.
If you WANT to improve them, then I'd recommend washing then lubing with pledge
If you WANT to improve them, then I'd recommend washing then lubing with pledge
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I did a test and made a post awhile back to see how big of a deal bad skirts were. I beat and squished the heck out of those things to the point where some didn't even have a skirt any more. My groups went from like 0.4" to about 0.6" (10 shots) at 30yds. Not a significant enough jump for normal use to justify putting much effort in at normal springer ranges.
Edit: Found the post
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I could see that.. i may test that out ..
Honestly being the skirt just flares out from air pressure when shot id figured it would ld just form / seal tight to the barrel id anyway.. so i looked harder to best head size to fully engage proper rifling..
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If I you are competing in matches, then every little bit helps.
Sqwirl57 & spinach nailed it! For the average shooter plinking or punching paper its load, shoot, repeat.
Sqwirl57 & spinach nailed it! For the average shooter plinking or punching paper its load, shoot, repeat.
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For me i find unders / loose fits hurts me the most as far as loose groups or fliers.. tight fits somewhat but ????.. 90% of my culled tin pellets are smalls or loose in the lead pellets .
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I would think Head size would be a bigger factor and less consistent then bent skirts, I don't have a pellet sizer so I can't offer any actual data proof, but it would make sense..
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I Weight them and any that are outside of+/- .2 grains get put back in the lead pot. Of course I also inspect them for surface wrinkles and non filled out skirts but then I cast all of the pellets and slugs I shoot. I also try and recycle the lead and with all of the power I use is from my solar system it's just the cost of my time and I'm retired.
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I like to " feel" the pellet as i load it .. so its pinch out of tin and push/seat in leade. Fingertips are pretty sensitive..
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I’ve weighed, inspected, sized and juggled. I generally weigh a tin of new pellets I haven’t used to see what the variances are after that not much more weighing. I think that a narrow span of weight range indicates a higher level of quality.
Most of the time they will all move on to the next step a light spritz of oil, inspection of heads and tails then in the mag. Rejects go into a separate tin to be shot later and see how accurate they are. I will do some sizing after shooting out of the tin to see if it helps, hurts or makes no affect on accuracy. I have also done head size verification just grabbing a few from the tin I use the pelletgage and digital calipers and it seems head sizes are often 0.01mm larger than stated, so 5.52’s are more often 5.53. I have a Red Wolf and I have been taking note of those brands that drop right in while others have bigger tails and need some assistance into the magazine.
This is my current process
Most of the time they will all move on to the next step a light spritz of oil, inspection of heads and tails then in the mag. Rejects go into a separate tin to be shot later and see how accurate they are. I will do some sizing after shooting out of the tin to see if it helps, hurts or makes no affect on accuracy. I have also done head size verification just grabbing a few from the tin I use the pelletgage and digital calipers and it seems head sizes are often 0.01mm larger than stated, so 5.52’s are more often 5.53. I have a Red Wolf and I have been taking note of those brands that drop right in while others have bigger tails and need some assistance into the magazine.
This is my current process
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It depends on what I am doing and the type of pellets. If I am plinking, shooting steel or messing around a decent pellet straight from the tin. Inspect them as I load. Brands I tend to trust AA, JSB, H&N usually qualify. Normas if I check a few first.
As I get more serious weight sort to 1/10 grain gets me about .20" to .25" smaller at 30 yards with AA. I have not gotten serious enough with other brands so far. I then lube if I am getting more serious. I weight sort, head size and lube when I am the most serious. This gets me about .30" smaller at 50-yards. Lube is bees wax though I don't think there is anything real different between lube types.
As I get more serious weight sort to 1/10 grain gets me about .20" to .25" smaller at 30 yards with AA. I have not gotten serious enough with other brands so far. I then lube if I am getting more serious. I weight sort, head size and lube when I am the most serious. This gets me about .30" smaller at 50-yards. Lube is bees wax though I don't think there is anything real different between lube types.
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I shoot .30 caliber pellets at semi long ranges and simply weight sort them, and lube with silicone oil while shooting to maintain consistency and easy barrel cleaning. Both things have shown to mitigate the flyers Id have when simply pulling pellets from the tin. There isn't much in the way of skirt damage or needing to head size sort with the bigger calibers, so I don't take the time there.
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