Maybe I replied different then what I meant jungle shooter , we all have range finders yes , I was trying to say If you didn't or it did not work then the reticle is what I was taught to use not a parallax wheel , Infact 95% of all hi end scopes have no markings on wheel as they were not made to range with them . I have noticed on this forum many use the parallax to range ,and not many or any Mil targets the way I was taught , I am a scope snob and just love good glass and threw decades have tried pretty much every teir 1 scope out their and even scopes I own which I consider upper end such as Tangent theta , Hensoldt ,IOR ,ZCO , eception is like my Schmidt bender but have very few graduations so not able to range with it ,
I also want to point out now I have had this happen many times where temperature changes can cause parallax settings to be off alot , here is an example , I was shooting my schmidt bender and an example is at 100 yards usually parallax is clear at the 100 yard mark , however when temperatures change in excess of say 30 degrees rapidly the same setup may need to be set at say 300 yards during a rapid sudden shift of temps , I have had this happen with multiple hi end scopes , and have read others say it on some long range forums like snipers hide or others and my point is if you used the parallax method to range it would be a huge miss if you relied on it , I bring this up cause parallax does change with environments , Now I did not brings this up about temp changes so someone can say the medal in tube expands or lens shift due to temps of things but just to say it is not always same , but if you milled a target and it was xxx mils then you know the distance by doing a simple calculation such as
Known target size in Inches X 95.5 = Distance to target in yards
Target size in MOA
or
Known target size in Inches X 27.77 = Distance to target in yards
Target size in mils
here is a few videos on ranging with reticles enjoy