Air Arms How do you remove the barrel from an AA S510 TXS?

I have a S510 tactical and want to remove the barrel to clean and polish it. I removed the two vertical grub screws from above the breech but it doesn’t move. Do you have to remove the transfer port adjuster first and if so how does that come out? How does the shroud come off too? I tried to turn it thinking it might unscrew but it didn’t move with hand pressure.
 
I have a S510 tactical and want to remove the barrel to clean and polish it. I removed the two vertical grub screws from above the breech but it doesn’t move. Do you have to remove the transfer port adjuster first and if so how does that come out? How does the shroud come off too? I tried to turn it thinking it might unscrew but it didn’t move with hand pressure.
I too have that question about a .22 S410 FAC...
 
If the folks at the Air Arms factory haven’t changed their assembly practice, particularly in terms of fitting parts and securing set screws, the barrel, like that on my S410 Extra, is Loctited, which is why you’re having difficulty removing it even when you’ve unscrewed the barrel retaining screws. Heat is needed to break the threadlock.

I especially dislike it when manufacturers thread-lock even the tiniest screws, which can easily be cross-threaded or have their heads rounded when attempting to undo them (I’m looking at you too, BRK/Daystate).😡
 
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If the folks at the Air Arms factory haven’t changed their assembly practice, particularly in terms of fitting parts and securing set screws, the barrel, like that on my S410 Extra, is Loctited, which is why you’re having difficulty removing it even when you’ve unscrewed the barrel retaining screws. Heat is needed to break the threadlock.

I especially dislike it when manufacturers thread-lock even the tiniest screws, which can easily be cross-threaded or have their heads rounded when attempting to undo them (I’m looking at you too, BRK/Daystate).😡
Epoxy and other locking compounds are significantly overused on air guns. In most cases it simply is not needed. If it is a tiny screw subject to extreme vibration then maybe a very small amount of a low strength adhesive might be needed. But in general it should not be used. Just my opinion, and my wife says I'm always wrong.
 
I hadda AA S510 a few years ago and didn't have much trouble removing the barrel.
Try this reply:
You need to have a set of metric sized Allen wrenches.
Degas the air chamber by shooting it down until a dissipating hiss is heard.
Unscrew then take off the fill adapter protective cover.
Remove the barrel band by loosening the 3 set screws then slide it off of the shroud.
Detach the shroud by un-threading it from the barrel (rubber gloves come in handy for this part), then slide it off of the barrel.
Then loosen the 2 front set screws on top of the receiver. The barrel will then slide out of the receiver (heat may or may not be required).
Sometimes the brass piece will remain attached to the barrel, sometimes not. If not, you can cut small pieces of 1/4" wooden dowel rod and push the brass piece out the front of the receiver using the bolt's pellet probe to push the sections of dowel rod against the brass piece.
While it is out you can un-thread the two sections of the brass apart and inspect the breech O ring for its condition and replace it if necessary. The .22 caliber breech O ring is size 009.
When you push the brass piece back into the receiver with the barrel upon reassembly, be sure that the hole for the fill port is aligned exactly into proper position (this should be indicated by the marks left from the Allen grub screws). Otherwise, the adjustable velocity screw will not work properly, and your rifle won't operate efficiently or at all if this hole is blocked through misalignment.
Make certain to align the grub screw marks when reassembling, or things won't be right.
OR.....Here is a video that shows the barrel removal at the very end of the video.
 
You don't need to degass to remove the barrel.

The shroud must be unscrewed. Unscrew in the counterclockwise direction.

The two top screws are all that hold the barrel in the reciever.

Look at the exploded drawing in the manual to see how it is assembled.

After all that. It is extremely unlikely that your barrel will benifit from any sort of polishing... Lothar-Walther makes good stuff.
 
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