How do you tighten the scope mounting screws without rotating the scope?

[Long_Shot]

I HATE mounting a scope. The rings always rotate the the scope to one side or the other as I tighten it up. 

I use Burris Signature Rings and fight this every time. It's up to dumb ass luck on about the 10th or 15th try for me. 

There's got to be a better way to tighten the rings and keep it plumb to the barrel, levels and string-bob. 

Thanks in advance for any help here. 

 

[fishinwrench]

Equal back and forth until snug enough that it won't move.

Or, Bob O posted a little Gizmo a few days ago that will level and hold the scope level until the rings are tight.

 

[Bluecup]

I am not sure if I understand what you mean by turning. The scope should not turn in the mounts if you tighten them equally.

 

[Macros]

I find you have to tighten each screw little by little, equally all round. It's a complete ball-ache but provided you keep checking as you go it tends to turn out alright.

Some of my favourite rings, for this very reason, are Warne Maxima rings - pretty much impossible to have the scope rotate during tightening due to how they work with the screws at the top middle.

Just need them to be adjustable and they'd be the ultimate rings

https://warnescopemounts.com/product/215m-30mm-fixed-high-matte-rings/

 

[Shinyknight]

I am not sure if I understand what you mean by turning. The scope should not turn in the mounts if you tighten them equally.

I'm with you. How does tighting the mount make the scope rotate? When you tighten it, in pushes downward on the scope. So it shouldn't even rotate.

 

[Brian10956]

I use 2 Allan wrenches simultaneously on both sides of scope. Snug up and then tighten up this works for me

 

[Eamon]

I used Burris scope rings for a long time. Never really had that problem? So this is how I do it:

After rings are mounted to the rail, I then use a torque wrench to final tighten mounting screws/bolts.

I then set the scope in the bottom rings. Put the scope in the rings. After looking for the primary location of scope, place the scope in the rings.

Then carefully set the top rings in place, I don't worry about plum at this point. All I want to do is tighten screws the same you would on a tire. I am using the cross bolt method.

Tighten to the most basic snug fit. At his point, the scope should be able to move, but tight enough as to not change location.

Now set the level and eye relief. once happy I will tighten again with cross system till all but tight.

Recheck scope. If at this point you are happy it is strongly suggested to tighten according to the spec of mfg using a torque wrench.

If you do not have a scope torque wrench, then tighten with the short end of allen wrench standing tall. Tighten with medium pressure as not to strip.

You should be go to go.

 

[nced]

As you've found, if you tighten all of the the top strap screws on one side of the top strap, then tighten the opposite sides the scope will have rotated in the saddles after torquing.

My top strap screws are tightened "crissy crossy" a bit at a time. Here is a pic of my torque sequence...............



I start by just barely snugging the screw at #1, then #2, then #3, then #4, then back to #1 and the torque sequence is repeated in light steps till the top strap screws torque about 5 in/lbs. Then I move to the second set of top straps following the same procedure starting with #5 (so on and so forth). After both sets of top strap screws evenly torqued to about 5 in/lbs I then start torquing all screws "crissy crossy" a couple in/lbs at a time till all screws are at the final screw torque. The final screw torque allowed without damaging the scope tube is dependent on the mount and scope tube. I can torque the Weaver Quad Lock top straps to 15 in/lbs without damaging my scope tube, yet the scope will still be held firm against my .177 HW95 springer with as little as 10 in/lbs. The two piece BKL "double strappers" was a completely different situation where my scope would slip in the rings with 10 in/lbs of torque, however 15 in/lbs or top strap screw torque deformed my 4-16x40 Center Point scope tube and my 4-12x40 Vortex Diamondback scope.............



Notice the distinctive BKL "double dents" with these scope tubes using 15 in/lbs torque.............





Here is the torque driver I use.............







The "secret" is to torque the screws in several steps, never torquing two screws in a row on the same side of the mount.

 

[Bob_O]

I use 2 Allan wrenches simultaneously on both sides of scope. Snug up and then tighten up this works for me

This is exactly what I do after experiencing the same issue time and time again.

 

[Long_Shot]

Thanks for the responses, and instruction. 

Eamon - That is how I go about it, minus the scope torque wrench. 

After reading the responses. I must be tightening the first side too much too fast (1/2 Turn) and that rotates the scope just a little. 

Then when I tighten the other side about about a 1/2 turn it can't pull the now clamped down rotated scope back towards the other side. 

Going to go try 2 wrenches at the same time. That just might work good for me. 

Think I'll try some of the Warne Maxima rings too. Like the looks of them. Getting a new scope that will need some rings. 

nced - The top strap screws are tightened "crissy crossy" a bit at a time. I can see in your photo a big mistake I've making. 

I would go from #1 to #8 then #2 then #7 and then do the inside screws. 

Thanks, everyone. Time to go straighten up my new setup. 

 

[bandg]

I use the criss cross method of tightening as well but I give the scope a light tap at each saddle with a plastic hammer and also then tap the top straps lightly to try to set them once the scope appears to be aligned. Probably doesn't help as I still often note some shifting but it is a habit.

 

[Bob_O]

The Warne Maxima rings are nice....I use them for centerfire rifles. But I need adjustable rings for my air rifles.

 

[shoot44]

.

 

[nced]

I have a set of picatinny/Weaver two piece Warne Maxima Series rings for 1" tube scopes that I don't use since they are steel and rather heavy..........





After trying several types of scope mounts (adjustable and fixed) I found the perfect setup for my .177 HW95 and .177 Beeman R9. The setup looks like this.............





The base is a UTG Universal Picatinny/Weaver to Dovetail adapter ($12.97 from Pyramyd Air)............

https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Universal_Dovetail_To_Picatinny_Weaver_Adapter/7311





To this adapter I clamp a set of high Weaver Quad Lock mounts from WallyMart ($4.33 online but under $10 at the store). The weaver high Quad Lock mounts plus the UTG adapter spaces my scopes with a 50mm objective at just about the perfect height above the receiver.....

https://www.walmart.com/ip/WEAVER-QUAD-LOCK-RNGS-1-HI-MBLK/16879802





LOL.....the adapter plus the Weaver rings only cost me about $23 total which is about half what I paid for my BKL one piece mount alone.

I really don't need (of want) an adjustable mount because I first optically center my scopes, then bend my HW barrels till the poi is within about 1/2" of the aim point at 30 yards, then I "dial in" the exact zero with the scope turrets.

 

[Long_Shot]

Well 2 wrenches one on each side of the scope and 1/4 turn of the screws in the right "crissy crossy" pattern worked perfect. 

I get to do it again for some good practice now. Maybe I'll remember the proper way to do this if I remount the thing a few more times. 

I need to use a different set of the shims that come with the Burris rings. Optically centered scope is way off. 

Thanks again everyone...........

 

[Denis0105]

For scopes, my french friends give me this website : https://www.armurerie-centrale.fr/

I think you can found good products here, but idk, I'm unsure if they ship internationally.

 

[bigHUN]

There are a lot of scope mounts where the rings are split vertically instead of horizontal, that prevents loosing the vertical reticle and the bubble.
I upgraded my eaglevision to 20 MOA ARC for this same reason, and the bubble is also built into the base no need for any external mounts. This way I can setup the bubble on the level plate and I can dual purpose the same scope between guns.

The "American Rifle Company" is one of the more affordable mounts, if you preffer there are couple other Brands for a 2x the money.

 

[BABz58]

I'm with you. How does tighting the mount make the scope rotate? When you tighten it, in pushes downward on the scope. So it shouldn't even rotate.

Ummmm. Well if you tighten one side first. It will pull the scope towards that side.
This the reason to alternate sides as tightening.

 

[JimD]

I do not have this issue but it is due, in large part, I think, to the way I mount the scope. I have done it a lot of ways over the years. I have a collimator but that method depends on getting it with its cross hairs vertical and horizontal. I don't really use a plumb bob but I will check vertical against the side of a house in the distance sometimes (with the rifle held in position) sometimes. But what I do these days is I make the flat bottom of the scope, around where the knobs are, parallel with the picatinny rail. I use a block to take up most of the distance and feeler gauges for the rest to ensure the bottom of the scope is exactly parallel with the rail. Then I leave the feeler gauge in place as I start to tighten the scope rings. I try to remember to pull it before the final tightening because it will be nearly stuck in place if I do not. The shim prevents any rotation of the scope. You could do the same thing even if you align the cross hairs a different way. The scope will not rotate if it is held parallel to the rail where the bottom of the scope is flat.

I know some may not like my mounting method for the scope based upon a fear the picatinny rail is not horizontal on top. My belief is that if the machinist that made my gun messed this up I have far bigger problems to deal with in the gun. I find them to be nice and flat even on Chinese made airguns. There are also at least potential issues with any way you mount the scope. So I do not claim my way is perfect or free of risks, I just think it works well for me.