HW/Weihrauch How hard is it to make your own stock?
- Thread starter Croxton63
- Start date
Baltic Birch Plywood (normally a 5'x5') which will need a lay up is likely one of the best to learn on? Even better than a pine 2/6 and pocket knife.
John
John
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. Timing is everything!!I say give it a shot! I recently built one for one of my air rifles, and was a great learning experience. This was the second one I’ve built, while not for a spring gun, perhaps some of the photos will help you visualize how I did things, and the order they were done. There’s many was to accomplish the same ends. Check out “ Homemade Stock ll “ on this forum. Good luck. JohnSomeone was asking about CS stocks, and I nearly asked this question there. Then I remembered how irritating it can be when things go off on a tangent.
I’m a leftie and have a HW50 which I am using for paper targets as I try to develop my skills for next year’s local field target club. It seems to me that I’d benefit from either an adjustable cheek piece, butt piece, and a hamster, OR a custom fitted stock.
I’ve seen a YouTube video on someone making a stock - so now I know everythingjust kidding.
It made me wonder how difficult it would be to make a stock along the lines of my HW50 stock, but with the design tweaked for FT? I don’t want to take a saw to my stock because it would reduce its resale value if ever I decide to sell it.
One initial question I have is about inletting. I read that the action tube is 29.4 or 29.6 mm in diameter. I assume that a 30 mm round router would be a good fit to house it - does that make sense?
If anyone would care to answer any part of this question I’d appreciate it. Also appreciated would be photos/tips of stocks you’ve made for airguns. Thanks.
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I took a look. Fantastic work. Way above my skill level, but it’s inspiring to see you give that rough blank some life.
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I have some rough cut pine 8ftx3.5x4.5 inch white pine. Was part of a shipping skid. So it was free.
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One thing you might look into is a router table. They can be had for a fraction of the price of a mill and can work with the router you already have.
Another trick I learned when doing wood or machine work that is beyond my skill level is to do every cut and hole way undersized and then slowly and carefully enlarge them while reminding myself that even though it seems like a slow and tedious process that it's actually not half as time consuming as it seems.
Another trick I learned when doing wood or machine work that is beyond my skill level is to do every cut and hole way undersized and then slowly and carefully enlarge them while reminding myself that even though it seems like a slow and tedious process that it's actually not half as time consuming as it seems.
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I once made a full stock for a Pennsylvania (Kentucky long rifle) type muzzle loader only to have a now out of business gunsmith screw it up. It was complete with inlaid patchbox. The stock blank was machine inletted for an octagon barrel so that was a big help, but even then I cannot begin to count the hours that went into fitting and shaping everything else. Making your own is not for the faint of heart.
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This was my first FX Wildcat stock, made out of Flame Birch some years ago. I used a coffee mix in the sanding process to lift the grains. Tools was what I had on hand at the moment, and mostly the same I use today. The most time consuming part is the in-letting for barrel/cylinder/action, and my advise is to start with that after cutting the outer profile.
Here are a couple of pics - and yes....... there is ours between those two, but you will never regret the effort you put into it.
Here are a couple of pics - and yes....... there is ours between those two, but you will never regret the effort you put into it.
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Well done! That’s a lovely job. There is so much talent amongst the folks on this forum. I love seeing how people tackle different challenges. Coffee as a stain - that makes sense but I never would have thought of it. Thanks for posting.
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This is very important. It's tempting to do want to do the easy and visible part first and shape your stock, but the inletting is the hard part and you're going to want to have nice square outside edges on your blank so that you can clamp it securely and measure accurately when you're doing the inletting.
And that's a beautiful stock BTW.
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One other possibility I've considered with inletting is just getting the outside edges cut accurately but hogging out the inside parts and then using some sort of epoxy to form the inside portion like you would if you were glass bedding it.
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As I look at the listings for wood i see a lot of reference to epoxy for making tables. The thought did cross my mind!
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When ordering a custom stock, and I have from both CS Stocks (Great Britain) and SC Stocks (Steve Corcoran) there still may be some final adjustments made to fit your action. My SC stock fit my R7 but not my HW30. Even Weihrauch doesn’t get exact tolerances. Also the fit needs to be not so tight as to blow the stock out from the movement of the action but not to loose that the action isn’t properly held.
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