How long do I rub on my Impact bore before I give up?

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far_shot

far_shot

Member
Jan 21, 2018
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Ia, United States
.30 Impact lost it's accuracy after about 1,000 shots. Decided to clean it. Took off the moderator and the barrel and ran patch after patch with Lead Wipe away, Ballistol, Goof-off spot remover, Brakleen and dry patches in rotation. None ever came out clean after at least a hundred passes total with the above mix. Picture is the Lead Wipe Away patch with two passes after about 15 minutes into it all. Patches are on a .22 rod and brush that works really well. Do I need to (yikes) scrape the bore with a .30 cal brush? I am not fond of that or JB paste since it had shot so well. Has been fed nothing but JSB 44 grain straight out of the tin and was shooting MOA at 100 yards with no wind. Barrel looked spotless right after the first patch...but I kept going till I gave up and replaced the breach O-ring, put the barrel back on and fired a shot out the back door. Sounded like a .223 with out the moderator in the cold Winter air ! I just cant comprehend why it is so dirty when my powder burners come clean with no residue very quickly :(


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FX.jpg
 
How did it shoot with the new breech O-ring?
Did you double check your gauges and make sure your tune was still intact?
I know that does not answer the question about the dirty barrel but I would be more concerned with the accuracy first.
Also after looking at your pictures the color on that patch looks more like O-ring material than lead fouling. I could be wrong but it is awfully black and lead looks more of a grey color.
Also might contact FX USA and quiz Newsom or one of the other techs there as to the issue.
 
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MikeAllen said:
I've always used PatchWorm and Ballistol - works great for me. I do question the use of the .22 brush - is it a brass brush? If so that may have damaged the liner. Just guessing...
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I've heard this quite alot, when people talk about air rifle barrels. Steel is much harder than brass or copper, so neither should damage a steel liner or barrel, but for some reason , air rifle barrels are made with a softer steel that brass or copper brushes will damage? I've always used copper, brass, or nylon brushes to clean my steel barrels, but stayed away from stainless brushes.
 
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Removing lead is actually done mechanically. Lead isn't truly dissolved with solvents like those soaked patches have on them or with Hopped No. 9 or Shooter's Choice Lead Removing solvents. A good stiff nylon brush and the copious amounts of solvents work good at creeping under the flakes and lifting them off. Kroil oil and PB Blaster are said to work good also. Shooting one or two tight fitting slugs during the cleaning session may help to dislodge a stubborn streak of lead also.

Testing what I read about the brass brushes, I drug a brass brush across some soft steel and could actually see the indentations in the steel with a magnifying glass. I wouldn't use brass on the soft steel FX barrels unless there is really stubborn leading that a bit of scrubbing/shooting/more scrubbing with a nylon brush and solvents won't remove.

Did you look at it with a bore scope? Teslong makes a really good one for a decent price.

 
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Wow, I feel for you.
Years ago, I bought a Model 59 Smith and Wesson from a city cop. When I got it home, I took it apart for a good scrubben. Well, while looking down the barrel, NO rifling was to be seen ! I got a flash light, nope, all kinda rough and no rifling. I took a pick, and dug at the end of the barrel, and sure enough, a big chip of...lead popped out of the rifling groove.
This was a duty gun for a city officer ! I met him at the police station obby, he had on his uniform and everything !

It took a week of soaking and scrubbing, a while every night, to open the lands and grooves to visibility of the rifling again. So yeah, it can be no fun cleaning obstinate barrels.

Be careful of the brass brushes and the soft airgun barrel material.

Mike
 
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Chukar60 said:
How did it shoot with the new breech O-ring?
Did you double check your gauges and make sure your tune was still intact?
I know that does not answer the question about the dirty barrel but I would be more concerned with the accuracy first.
Also after looking at your pictures the color on that patch looks more like O-ring material than lead fouling. I could be wrong but it is awfully black and lead looks more of a grey color.
Also might contact FX USA and quiz Newsom or one of the other techs there as to the issue.
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Gauges and regulator were running spot on. O-ring also looked fine. Have not put it on target yet. All my PCP's cleaning patches come out with the black color on the lead wipes.
 
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The black stuff is not lead. Lead looks like flakes of silver. The black stuff is lubrication left from the pellets. Even if you get the patch out with no color on it, the black stuff will be back after a few shots. I personally have used a bronse brush on stuborn barrels, and then patchworm with ballistol, and then dry patches. It depends on the barrels, some I get the silver colored lead flakes out with patches only, while some might require a brush first. I would not worry to much if you do not get the patches completelly white, as the black stuff will get back after few shots anyway.
 
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Vetmx said:
Ditch the aluminum rod and try again with a pull through. I highly doubt with the absence of blazing heat, that you fouled a previously good shooting barrel that bad with pellets. Your magic elixirs are having a chemical reaction with that porous aluminum rod and you are cleaning up after it.
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It's a stainless rod and never touches the barrel. using a guide. :)
 
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Vetmx said:
Ditch the aluminum rod and try again with a pull through. I highly doubt with the absence of blazing heat, that you fouled a previously good shooting barrel that bad with pellets. Your magic elixirs are having a chemical reaction with that porous aluminum rod and you are cleaning up after it.
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far_shot, Here’s your answer, right here☝️☝️☝️
 
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