For me and stuff it's 2 ways..
If I spend the extra to get it I find I really did not need it , but if I don't get the extra then everytime I use it I wish I had it ..
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How much chronograph do I need?
- Thread starter RandyTheHack
- Start date
If I spend the extra to get it I find I really did not need it , but if I don't get the extra then everytime I use it I wish I had it ..
I had the caldwell , pain to sett up , so i bought the china $16 on Amazon , yes instruction about programing to FPS . shot several times through both , both read the same FPS + or - .1 .
I set the china one on a tri pod ,resting the end of the barrel in the grove , works great . AND self illuminating with leds
I set the china one on a tri pod ,resting the end of the barrel in the grove , works great . AND self illuminating with leds
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I have a Pro Chrono Pal which was the budget Chrono they made, I want to say it was @$75 and it's been a great tool. They don't make that model now but I would think it's worth $130 or so to pick up a decent Chrono if you do any amount of tuning etc. Surprising how a gun you think is shooting at full power isn't when you run it over the Chrono. Also helps in picking the best pellet.
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@RandyTheHack
So I’ve got an offer for you. I have the old style Caldwell Chrono. It works but stopped sending data to my iPhone or iPad using the included cord so I could not save shot strings with the data calculations in the app. I created a spreadsheet and just manually logged the data for each shot for shot string info. One day I sent an email to Caldwell not expecting anything except to vent my frustration that the chrono could not send data to my devices with the provided cord and they sent me the new version at no cost.
Looks like USPS shipping would be about $8.00 if I entered everything correct shipping from Phoenix, AZ to Georgetown KY.
So if you’re interested I will send you the old one and you pay shipping only nothing for the chrono PM me if your interested.
So I’ve got an offer for you. I have the old style Caldwell Chrono. It works but stopped sending data to my iPhone or iPad using the included cord so I could not save shot strings with the data calculations in the app. I created a spreadsheet and just manually logged the data for each shot for shot string info. One day I sent an email to Caldwell not expecting anything except to vent my frustration that the chrono could not send data to my devices with the provided cord and they sent me the new version at no cost.
Looks like USPS shipping would be about $8.00 if I entered everything correct shipping from Phoenix, AZ to Georgetown KY.
So if you’re interested I will send you the old one and you pay shipping only nothing for the chrono PM me if your interested.
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I have a little end-of-barrel unit that works fine for me. Cheap as chips and does the job.
Genuinely don’t get the need for big table mounted units. Compared mine to an FX radar over a lot of shots and they were bang on to each other (although the Radar was nicer to use).
Combro by the way.
Genuinely don’t get the need for big table mounted units. Compared mine to an FX radar over a lot of shots and they were bang on to each other (although the Radar was nicer to use).
Combro by the way.
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This may help.
FPS = Feet Per Second, MPS = Meters Per Second, FPE = Foot Pounds of Energy.
To convert to Joules multiply FPE by 1.3558, Joules to FPE multiply by .7376
To convert MPS to FPS, MPS x 3.2808339 = FPS .
To convert FPS to MPS, FPS x .3048 = MPS.
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I had a "Shooting Chrony" for years but I shot it one time to many trying to measure velocity of my airguns indoors. They work well in strong light but not in dim light, inside or outside. I used it on my powder burners before I got into airguns. Now I use one of my two inexpensive Chinese chronographs. I got the clamp on model first and it works fine but it shifts my point of impact if I try to shoot groups as I record velocity. I got one that can be mounted on a tripod next and I use that mainly now. The two chronographs do not agree with each other but they are not very different. For most things I do not care so much about the absolute velocity, I care whether the hammer spring change increase velocity or not. Or how much of a gain did I get from increasing the regulator. If the measurement is off a few fps it doesn't become less usefull. I wouldn't trust that a $100 unit is any more accurate.
You might not be surprised at this given my earlier comment but I've shot the tripod mount chrony several times. The shooting window is not very big and I was not careful enough with positioning it. I just hit the rods which separate the top from the bottom. They are metal and survived fine. I did crack the plastic where the rod mounts to the top on one of the recent "hits" but it still works.
There are ways to extract a string from my chronys but I just keep a pencil and paper handy as I shoot and write the velocity reading down. Later I put the results into a spreadsheet when the mps are converted to fps and I also calculate fpe, extreme spread and standard deviation. I like having it in a spreadsheet for future reference.
You might not be surprised at this given my earlier comment but I've shot the tripod mount chrony several times. The shooting window is not very big and I was not careful enough with positioning it. I just hit the rods which separate the top from the bottom. They are metal and survived fine. I did crack the plastic where the rod mounts to the top on one of the recent "hits" but it still works.
There are ways to extract a string from my chronys but I just keep a pencil and paper handy as I shoot and write the velocity reading down. Later I put the results into a spreadsheet when the mps are converted to fps and I also calculate fpe, extreme spread and standard deviation. I like having it in a spreadsheet for future reference.
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I've had a couple of the Shooting Chrony's over the years. Avoid them like the plague, unless you like firing shot after shot over them and seeing err1, err2 or simply no readout at all. I'm pretty sure the reason why they were always getting shot up is because people were always trying to shoot a fraction of an inch above the sensors in hopes of getting an actual reading rather than an error.
I've got an FX pocket chrony now and that is the bees knees. It's pricey, but it very rarely fails to read, like maybe one in every 25 shots and the app saves all your shot strings, lists them with the gun and calculates the kinetic energy and does the statistical analysis too.,
I've got an FX pocket chrony now and that is the bees knees. It's pricey, but it very rarely fails to read, like maybe one in every 25 shots and the app saves all your shot strings, lists them with the gun and calculates the kinetic energy and does the statistical analysis too.,
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I'll vouch for Caldwell and urge you send your business to them.. Fine product and a true innovator, since back when a useful product actually meant something.. Grab a pen and paper and do some calculations like before all this B.S. Bluemollars nonsense removed you from the equation, nothing wrong with an actual log or two..
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I would add that I only miss getting a velocity reading with my inexpensive chronys if they are in need of recharging. They do not give you another indication, they just start missing pellets. I don't think I've ever checked how long they take to recharge but it isn't hours. Maybe an hour. Then you are good for several hours use. There is an indicator on the USB charging cord that turns green when they are charged.
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Like what has been said. I just want to add that I compared the chinese small unit to a Labradar and posted the numbers.
www.airgunnation.com
Chinese Chronograph vs Labradar
I bought a cheap one to adjust the hammer spring instead of setting up the labradar every time. And I can shoot into a box on my back porch. It's just more convenient to have something like the Chinese thing. I tested it against the Labradar to see if its worth the time. I think it does an...
www.airgunnation.com Upvote 0
Competition Electronics (Pro Chrono) makes solid products at a reasonable price. Or, you can buy cheap, get cheap, then throw it away and buy again.
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(full disclosure - i make a Chrony)
In terms of accuracy - its not hard/expensive to get the bare electronics to make a unit that can offer good accuracy at up to 1,000-1,500 fps. Above those speeds the requirements start to get specialist & pricey. So unless its really poorly made - "they'll all be accurate enough" is probably not a bad statement.
Accuracy will then come down to how well its built & how far apart the sensors are - if the sensors are really far apart & rigidly mounted, then you'll get good accuracy. If they're close & have a hinge or something - then you may get some variability.
Interference - the "triangle" shoot through ones with shades etc can be a PITA, fluorescent or even some LED lights.
The real costs are going to be in the features:
- Adapters/mounting options
- Power supply (internal rechargeable LiPo battery)
- Screen included
- Mobile phone App
The more of those you have the greater the cost. If you dont need them - then save some coin for sure.
In terms of accuracy - its not hard/expensive to get the bare electronics to make a unit that can offer good accuracy at up to 1,000-1,500 fps. Above those speeds the requirements start to get specialist & pricey. So unless its really poorly made - "they'll all be accurate enough" is probably not a bad statement.
Accuracy will then come down to how well its built & how far apart the sensors are - if the sensors are really far apart & rigidly mounted, then you'll get good accuracy. If they're close & have a hinge or something - then you may get some variability.
Interference - the "triangle" shoot through ones with shades etc can be a PITA, fluorescent or even some LED lights.
The real costs are going to be in the features:
- Adapters/mounting options
- Power supply (internal rechargeable LiPo battery)
- Screen included
- Mobile phone App
The more of those you have the greater the cost. If you dont need them - then save some coin for sure.
Upvote 0