As the title states, how often is the standard? I have never used a moisture/oil separator on my Nomad 2 for 2.5 years or a hand pump before that and when I have looked inside the bottle or tube it has looked fine, I have a new YH and just fill my guns or small 90 I live in SE Michigan it’s humid in the summer and cold in the winter and I fill I A/C conditions in the summer. Just curious as a standard.
How often do you guys inspect your tubes and bottles for corrosion and rust?
- Thread starter magicmatt
- Start date
As a simple/general rule: If you stay over 150bar~2200psi initial fill pressure, most all condensation will occur in the feed line before it enters the recipient vessel. Ie cyclone water trap on proper compressors (or tampons on lesser). That coupled with the EN 12021 and i never need to inspect my bottles.
If you run a YH or other LQ pumps then all bets are of and at least once a year inspection is prudent (my opinion YMMW).
An $40 inspection is cheap compared to a possible piece of shrapnel to the body.
If you run a YH or other LQ pumps then all bets are of and at least once a year inspection is prudent (my opinion YMMW).
An $40 inspection is cheap compared to a possible piece of shrapnel to the body.
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Yearly..during the Winter Tune I do. Remove bottle valve ..
Inspect interior surface with borescope and check seals..
I also do this with my tanks too..
Inspect interior surface with borescope and check seals..
I also do this with my tanks too..
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Hi, I opened my today and it is like the pictures show. Is it unsafe? Some corrosion, i think. Nothing touches the areas where the white lines are. Doesn't come off with a rag or kitchen paper towell.
#UPDATE
I can't feel any depth on the "corrosion" spots, with my fingers, scratched it lightly, with a screw driver and could feel a very very, light roughness.
Ok so the scratch visible next to the "corroded" spot, in the second photo,was made by "dumb" me, when i passed a drag to clean it, can be felt with the point of a screw driver. It doesn't go from one end to the other, but it's without a doubt noticeable, the point of the screw driver "stays" in it.
On the other end i have some rust spots, from a bad quality regulator air chamber.
Do you think it's best to dump this bottle?
#UPDATE
I can't feel any depth on the "corrosion" spots, with my fingers, scratched it lightly, with a screw driver and could feel a very very, light roughness.
Ok so the scratch visible next to the "corroded" spot, in the second photo,was made by "dumb" me, when i passed a drag to clean it, can be felt with the point of a screw driver. It doesn't go from one end to the other, but it's without a doubt noticeable, the point of the screw driver "stays" in it.
On the other end i have some rust spots, from a bad quality regulator air chamber.
Do you think it's best to dump this bottle?
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When I was in the scuba business I used to inspect scuba and scba tanks. For pits and corrosion we used a pointed probe and a disk that had spots on it of varying depths that you used your skill and training to determine how deep the corrosion might be. Your tanks corrosion might best be examined by a trained inspector at a dive shop or fire extinguisher testing company to determine depth and hopefully know what depth would result in condemning your tank.
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This applies to me as well.
I do not use a borescope, I use a lighted inspection mirror to scan the interior surface of my HPA tanks.
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