I have the hatsan lighting compressor. Manual just mentioned changing out oil and changing out filter annually. My question is, what about opening up the compressor cylinder heads for both low and high pressure and cleaning out all that junk build up. How often should we need to tear the whole compressor apart to clean. Or is it not necessary? I used to own a yong heng and after only a month, I opened up the cylinder head and it would be carbon build up, oil, grease, all the junk inside. I had to wipe the cylinder, piston, crank, all the stuff and put it back. Have my hatsan for about 6 months now. I'm pretty sure inside there is dirty as heck.
How often does the compressor needs to be clean?
- Thread starter 2fast2furious
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Just my opinion, sir, but I’m going to highly assume that any of these PCP compressors will have some kind of gunk in it, and I can bet it doesn’t say in the instruction manual that opening it up to clean out gunk is a part of the maintenance procedure. If you open it up, your subjecting your compressor to some type of leak. If it’s working and you’re doing everything by the book as far as maintenance, I’d leave it alone.
At 6 months old I’d make sure and check for moisture coming out of the bleed screw by opening that thing up quickly so the bleed comes out strong and fast. Leave your fingers in the air stream and “feel” for moisture. If you find a hint of moisture at the bleed off, you need to change out the desiccant beads inside that aluminum block like in yesterday, because that means moisture will be getting into your tank and/or gun.
I did a maintenance write up with pics on this change out procedure not too long ago. It’s probably 5 or 6 pages back on this sub forum. I show which bead type hatsan recommended I use. I also replaced the cotton medial role inside the gold tower. If and when you decide to do it, it’s best to open these sections up after you’ve used the compressor. Everything loosens up easier when parts are warm.
when your all done and buttoned up, re check the calibration of the digital gage to a known good gage hooked up to your fill whip hose.
At 6 months old I’d make sure and check for moisture coming out of the bleed screw by opening that thing up quickly so the bleed comes out strong and fast. Leave your fingers in the air stream and “feel” for moisture. If you find a hint of moisture at the bleed off, you need to change out the desiccant beads inside that aluminum block like in yesterday, because that means moisture will be getting into your tank and/or gun.
I did a maintenance write up with pics on this change out procedure not too long ago. It’s probably 5 or 6 pages back on this sub forum. I show which bead type hatsan recommended I use. I also replaced the cotton medial role inside the gold tower. If and when you decide to do it, it’s best to open these sections up after you’ve used the compressor. Everything loosens up easier when parts are warm.
when your all done and buttoned up, re check the calibration of the digital gage to a known good gage hooked up to your fill whip hose.
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