Looking for an easy way to do it to change/replace valve without having to purchase the Saber Tactical de-gassing tool.
Any ideas?
Thanks people!
Any ideas?
Thanks people!
How to de-gas FX Carbon Fiber Bottle/Tank?
- Thread starter nirinium
- Start date
Probably either just unscrew it slowly from the gun until it just starts to leak a little and keep it there until it's drained or loosen the bottle gauge and bleed it from there.
Jking
Sorry misread your post. I have a spanner wrench that works well. The tricky part is holding a backup on the bottle as you don't want to damage it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqSgh1Qjepw
Jking
Sorry misread your post. I have a spanner wrench that works well. The tricky part is holding a backup on the bottle as you don't want to damage it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqSgh1Qjepw
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Yes unscrew bottle, then unscrew bottle gauge partially. Then slowly screw bottle back on but only allow it to empty slowly, you don't want to freeze or distort any o-rings or break them.
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Unscrew the bottle, then unscrew the bottle guage slightly and then install the bottle back on..
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On my FX400 I could never get the bottle to completely empty by slowly unscrewing the bottle. I got the Saber tool and it works great. Look at the tool and make one yourself. Should not be too hard.
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I have the saber tactical and it is great. there are a couple of issues you may run across when using it though. the hole in the top should probably be enlongated as it does not allow the bolt to be inserted straight into the threads and can cause either a bolt to cross thread or make the threads gall.
like this....
and on some non fx bottles the hole is smaller in the valve like 7/64". Take a 1/8 drill bit and just hit it maybe a 1/8" deep to allow the saber tactical tool to work on those bottles.
be careful also if you are using the saber tactical tool on a non fx bottle. The threads on the valve may not be the same. For example the delta wolf threads are 12 x 1.25 while the Fx is 12 x 1.0 I believe.
Allen
like this....
and on some non fx bottles the hole is smaller in the valve like 7/64". Take a 1/8 drill bit and just hit it maybe a 1/8" deep to allow the saber tactical tool to work on those bottles.
be careful also if you are using the saber tactical tool on a non fx bottle. The threads on the valve may not be the same. For example the delta wolf threads are 12 x 1.25 while the Fx is 12 x 1.0 I believe.
Allen
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Given the "extremely dangerous" notes on the removal of the FX bottle VALVE from a charged bottle, I can understand the reticence, but I'm a novice and don't really know how dangerous that might be.
a pricey alternative would be the purchase of the FX male to M18 adapter sold here;
https://canadashootingsupply.ca/product/m18-to-fx-adapter-gen-2/ screwed to an affordable regulator valve system with gauge, and release slowly with the valve.
https://canadashootingsupply.ca/product/pcp-paintball-hpa-tank-regulator-valve-m18-1-5-thread-black-1200psi-ouput/
I'd go with the Saber Tactical kit!
a pricey alternative would be the purchase of the FX male to M18 adapter sold here;
https://canadashootingsupply.ca/product/m18-to-fx-adapter-gen-2/ screwed to an affordable regulator valve system with gauge, and release slowly with the valve.
https://canadashootingsupply.ca/product/pcp-paintball-hpa-tank-regulator-valve-m18-1-5-thread-black-1200psi-ouput/
I'd go with the Saber Tactical kit!
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Maybe this is a stupid question, but I was under the impression that you should bleed the system AFTER the regulator, otherwise you can back-pressure the regulator, causing damage. I used to bleed the system by loosening the bottle gauge, but was regularly rebuilding my regulators. Now that I have started loosening the regulator gauge, it seems that I am not rebuilding my regulators as much. This may be anecdotal, but I don't think so. The regulators are designed to have a pressure loss after the regulator from the firing of the gun. They will regulate to bring the plenum/etc. back up to pressure. If you relieve pressure from the bottle, the plenum will still have your working pressure, until it is forced backwards through the regulator. I suppose you could just keep firing your gun while degassing it, but this seems like a pain when you can just degas the gun after the regulator. Am I off base on this??? I'm interested to know what the consensus thinks.
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Something to be aware of, should be obvious but not so sure everyone pays attention. Valve threads will have some type of thread locking compound on it. Make sure to remove all residue from threads before re-installing valve. You don't want any of that nasty stuff to get stuck in the action. You may not find any thread locker on aftermarket bottles but it is no big deal as soon as you put pressure in the system the valve will be hard to remove. Only when the bottle is empty will you need to really need to worry about the the valve unscrewing off of bottle.
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I agree. A big bottle under pressure is really hard to turn, which is why I went for the gauges. I was surprised to hear that as a suggestion. Also, if that bottle flew off, God help you! That seems like "playing with fire" to me.
On another note, looking at the picture of the ST wrench that you showed, Healthservices, that you may be able to get away with the rubber adjustable wrenches from Harbor Freight. Those things have "saved my bacon" a number of times with things that I don't want to mar. Here is a link:
https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
So I am still in the camp that you should bleed the system AFTER the regulator, so this ST wrench is actually not a good thing...at least for my 2240 modded guns. Perhaps FX regulators are so awesome that they have stainless steel o-rings in there or something "CRAZY" such that their regulators are bullet proof, but for my regulators that have standard 70 Durometer Buna-Nitrile o-rings in them, I have to be pretty careful. I don't like rebuilding my regulators NEARLY as much as I like shooting my guns ;-)
On another note, looking at the picture of the ST wrench that you showed, Healthservices, that you may be able to get away with the rubber adjustable wrenches from Harbor Freight. Those things have "saved my bacon" a number of times with things that I don't want to mar. Here is a link:
https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
So I am still in the camp that you should bleed the system AFTER the regulator, so this ST wrench is actually not a good thing...at least for my 2240 modded guns. Perhaps FX regulators are so awesome that they have stainless steel o-rings in there or something "CRAZY" such that their regulators are bullet proof, but for my regulators that have standard 70 Durometer Buna-Nitrile o-rings in them, I have to be pretty careful. I don't like rebuilding my regulators NEARLY as much as I like shooting my guns ;-)
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You don't have to bleed out with the saber tactical but you can. The good thing with the saber tactical is that sometimes you don't have enough leverage or hands with just the strap itself (which is a great idea by the way skeeterhawk!) and a spanner wrench. The ST tool will lock onto the valve so you do not have to worry about slipping. Then you can put the handle holding the bottle into a vice so you can put all your energy into removing the valve. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the SB on a fx valve. Here it is on delta wolf with bolt in the valve holding the tool firmly onto the valve.
Here is valve holder with death grip on just the valve
See all the nasty thread locker on the threads?
Here is valve holder with death grip on just the valve
See all the nasty thread locker on the threads?
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