As the title reads, how do I degas the RAW Micro Hunter? I found a few threads which talk about degassing a RAW by loosening the air gauge. Is this how it's done or is there a better way?
Is the blanking plug the silver screw I see under the rail? Not sure how one would get to that as the rail can be loosened but you cannot remove the rail completely without removing the air tank first.Typical .. is start unscrewing the blanking plug on bottom of receiver. Once o-ring unseats with a POP the tanks pressure is quickly diminished.
So - is the blanking plug the silver screw under the rail in the pic above?This is the way I do it...First, unscrew the tank slowly until the oring pops and then unscrew and remove. There is a check valve in the tank, so it won't depressurize when detached. You can now remove the action from the stock. Second, point the rifle in a safe direction and cock and fire it once (or maybe twice) to release the air inside the action. You'll know its empty when air comes rushing out of the open end of the regulator where the bottle was attached. Or you can do as Scott mentioned above and slowly loosen the blanking plug on the bottom of the action and that oring will pop and release the air.
Yes, that large headed silver screw IS the blanking plug that was mentioned above.So - is the blanking plug the silver screw under the rail in the pic above?
Do you know if the air tank on the Micro Hunter has a valve? It's not M18x1.5 threaded. It's an aluminum tank with a 5/8" paintball threading.
Yep, the silver allen-head screw is the blanking plug, and yes the aluminum bottle has a one-way valve in it to retain air when disconnected. The male thread on the end of the aluminum tank is 1/4 BSPP. lt's close to 5/8" major diameter but not the same thread form. Some older paintball tanks for CO2 had the same size.So - is the blanking plug the silver screw under the rail in the pic above?
Do you know if the air tank on the Micro Hunter has a valve? It's not M18x1.5 threaded. It's an aluminum tank with a 5/8" paintball threading.
I see that you have filled your gun to 250bar. The aluminum tank has a listed fill pressure of 207bar or 3000psi. You have overfilled it.Is the blanking plug the silver screw I see under the rail? Not sure how one would get to that as the rail can be loosened but you cannot remove the rail completely without removing the air tank first.
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You are 100% correct I did so i could test if the reg would handle 250 bar, which it does just fine. I am 100% aware of the 207 bar working pressure and 310 bar test pressures of this Al bottle.I see that you have filled your gun to 250bar. The aluminum tank has a listed fill pressure of 207bar or 3000psi. You have overfilled it.
Love this! I was wondering the exact same thing. Update the improvement in shot count and anything else please. Weight difference? ANy negatives?You are 100% correct I did so i could test if the reg would handle 250 bar, which it does just fine. I am 100% aware of the 207 bar working pressure and 310 bar test pressures of this Al bottle.
Not a problem any longer though:
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Anyway - thank you for the help with degassing properly.
Well I've been using the tank since I first posted. Filling to 250 bar and seen no changes in fps or ES. Shot count is about doubled since the reg is still around 145bar.Love this! I was wondering the exact same thing. Update the improvement in shot count and anything else please. Weight difference? ANy negatives?
Sean,...The accuracy is a problem for me. I am not able to find a single pellet that doesn't spit fliers on a regular basis. I've tried the usual stuff to help improve accuracy to no avail.
Exactly what all pellets have you tried? What speeds are you at? I know you said all but...all what? I went thru the same until I found them.......Yeah - I had reached out to RAW as well. They wanted to be helpful, but I don't think they know what the issue is. Tried everything. Spped up, speed down, baffle screwed all the way in, allthe way out, removed, bare barrel shooting, etc.
I do have CARM magazines for the raw and that didn't help. It almost seems like the barrel is too big as only the 13gr redesign and the 16.2gr load snuggly and shoot better than most.
Shooting at 10 yards I expect pretty much pellet in pellet and I'm getting near 1/4" groups with everything I put through it.
This isn't the only .177 carbine purchased recently by me which disappoints in the accuracy department. I got a Katran C which literally has the same problems. Been in touch with AirMaks and they are goin to send me a barrel, but that is delayed out to end of year at best for availability. The Katran is going to be rebarreled as well.
Out of pure frustration I purchased one of Tony's last Uragan Compact original v1 in .177. And there is the hole in hole 10 yard shooter. Awesome airgun as well. If I can get the RAW and the Katran up the Uragan Compact's performance I'll be thrilled. Ergonomically they are all awesome rifles.
That's pretty crazy, but the same route I am going. LW barrel with standard rifling.RAW and AF are BOTH aware that the LW poly barrels are hit and miss, and yet they BOTH keep selling them. I have dealt with (3) bad .22cal barrels and (1) bad .25cal barrel this past year. The only way I could get my .22cal RAW accurate was by ordering a 12-groove barrel direclty from LW and having Motorhead machine it for me. It now shoots fantastic.