) Im aware of finding the sweet spots and filling to those and do your two mags and refill etc. im just trying to get that curve as flat as possible before i settle on that starting point where the ES is nominal over the course of the shots and the SD is as low as i can get it. Im just curious as to what king of tuning can be done to lower SD.
thats what i mean, the curve is just a small adjustment away from a nice flat string but i know things can be done to also lower SD too
Is there a problem with accuracy across the shot curve? Why are you worrying about a a few shots faster or slower than the others? I have a shot curve on my rifle but all the pellets are accurate. It is the nature of unregulated rifles. The cans do not seem to mind when I shoot them across my shot string.
I plan on having these be longer range guns past 50 yards, i just want to get the guns performing more efficiently and where the gun is happy and not wasting air and things are all copasetic and funtioning at an optimal level where its happy. THEN ill sight in and deal with accuracy, but first i want to do what i can to get as much consistancy as i can so im not chasing down these things after the fact.. Lol i got these so i can mess around with them and really grasp how everything works before i go an get a REGULATED pcp.. not a lower end one, if im investing in a regulated gun its gonna be a good one, not just the cheapest one i can afford. Thanks!Hmmmmm... add a regulator?
IMHO, the SD and ES numbers on an unregulated PCP don't mean much. True that there's a somewhat "flat spot" where the pressure and valve balance but you are really dealing with a constantly changing situation.
A variance in velocity will affect the trajectory. If you're shooting tin cans at moderate ranges, a large change in trajectory over the whole shot string is not a problem. If you're shooting for precision groups at longer ranges then changes in trajectory are critical and only a small portion of the curve is usable.
I'd suggest that you tune for best pellet performance. work within the part of the curve that meets your needs and don't worry about some arbitrary numbers.
SD are ES are good points of REFERENCE for the performance/consistency of the valve/power plant but not necessarily an absolute indicator of accuracy.
The regulator in a PCP saves me the trouble of plotting the power curve and constantly monitor/adjusting the fill pressure. Call me lazy but I prefer the convenience of a regulator even if they are potentially a source of trouble. (I prefer automatic transmissions in cars as well
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers!
No i dont see any at 26 yards in my back yard, stacking pellet on pellet, 1/4 inch groups over the course of the string.. im not worrying, im trying to get the gun to shoot at its optimal level and understand all of the physics/math/tuning that goes into achieving that. sure, its fine for the average person shooting some cans and all that.. but im not normal and i know there is more consistancy i can squeeze out of it before i even try going out longer distances and setting up a range card and settling on that set up/settings.. just trying to get the most out of my guns as we all should be..
Everyone's rabbit hole is different! As long as you are having a good time go for it! I am still working and banging my head all day long. By the time I can shoot on the weekends the last thing I want to think about is math and range cards.
Also when strung on a piece of para cord they are very reactive and always return to zero. They get progressively harder and harder to shoot and when you cut one if half there is much joy on the range. @crowski is another can killer. His range is much bigger than my little gallery but we all have fun! "not much" means there is till room for improvement.. im going for gold haha after im done typing this im going to add 1/32-1/8 turn untill i see my initial 3 shots are just over 900 (then top off before a new full string when i think its where i want it) so i still have a little curve for more shots because i know if i go too far it will only trend downward. if i can get 2 mags, 900ish fps, with a low SD i will be happy to move on to sighting in and moving forward with that set up.. Honestly i dont even want to touch the transfer ports or do anything i cant undo like drilling out the ports and stuff like that. those kinds of things are last resort adjustments in my opinion..
Dont get me wrong, im all for picking off soda cans, spinners, bottle caps, mints etc. i just WANT to do it at longer distances and improve my shooting as much as i can. that to me makes hitting those cans even more fun for me. Aaaaand the occasional arisal can and a candle/small fire next to it lol Nice set up by the way!!Everyone's rabbit hole is different! As long as you are having a good time go for it! I am still working and banging my head all day long. By the time I can shoot on the weekends the last thing I want to think about is math and range cards.
I shoot cans because they are a tool of the deep state to track people's food habits
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I just have the stock hammer and spring in there, all i did to it was sand and smooth off the edges to reduce friction on the hammer as it moves back and forth.. what kind of increase in weight should i be looking at adding to it? i havent weighed the hammer but im not opposed to it and messing with that.. a return spring on the outside of the air cylinder right? ive heard of the o-ring stacking but i feel as though more simple things can be done first..
Your approach is a good way to get into airguns - learn how things work and then make an informed decision on what/where you want to buy into.
As Mike said, the valve return spring is inside the valve for the overwhelming majority of PCPs. Here’s a diagram showing a typical PCP
