How to separate pellets from ductseal?

[Frank in Fairfield]

I use picks to dig out the pellets. I’m thinking of switching to the rubber mulch pellet trap. It don’t take long to pick out the pellets but it is a pain in the butt.

Rubber mulch is the way to go. I dump my shot up mulch into my empty shop vac and fill it water. The rubber floats to the top and is skimmed off. The lead settles on the bottom where it is recycled into bullets for the muzzle-loaders and Ruger Old Army..

 

[Hold_Over]

When I built my pellet trap, I used a steel plate tilted at 45 degrees to deflect the pellets into an old blanket for easy retrieval. Used construction adhesive to glue a piece of drywall to the back of the steel plate, very little noise due to the drywall deadening the ring, much easier to retrieve the smashed pellets. Couldnt afford the ductseal for my trap that is 36" x 78" opening, yea it is a big one!

I have done some blacksmithing work. Usually slap a magnet on the anvil and it takes away the ringing every time you strike it. Should be able to do the same with the steel back plate if you don't wanna mess with glue and drywall.

 

[Harv24]

Duct Seal seemed like a good idea when I first got it and put it into a target. 6-8 months later its a huge sticky disgusting brick that is near impossible to get back into shape.

I've gone to rubber mulch and will not look back.

Yup, Rubber mulch is what I use.

 

[JimBentley]

I use the old school .22 rim fire traps. Easy to reclaim the pellets, stops my 90 Ft/lbs .30 cal at 20 Ft. Worked for me the last 25 years.

 

[AirShot]

@AirShot,

I think that I am going to go back to the 45 degree steel plate style of trap. I made one when I bought my FWB 124 and foolishly sold it.

I like your idea of using drywall for sound deadening, the trap that I made had 2 inches of dry sand behind the steel. The sand worked well but the trap was pretty heavy.

The one thing that worked for killing the energy on the pellet was adding a 1/8 inch thick steel plate that was "leaned" (and secured) against the 45 degree back plate. The pellet would hit the back plate, slide down along it to hit the 1/8 inch "shear plate" and tear itself into curly fragments that would fall into the bottom of the trap.

Hank

When the pellet fragments the particles can more easily fly around and get into the air. Just using a heavy plate to deflect keeps the smashed pellets in larger pieces, making them easier to retrieve and less likely to turn into powder and mix into the air.
Inhaling lead dust is not a good idea, one reason most traps try to keep the bullet in larger pieces if not one large piece. Food for thought !!

 

[Firewalker]

I just made a trap with a 60° top plate that directs pellets to a 4" offset DOM pipe that spins off the energy. The overflow drops out either end of the pipe into catch chambers. No vents, no dust, the until is sealed until the target backer is pierced.

Unscrew the catch chambers and cast into boolits for my buddies AEA .50.

 

[jccams]

I have done some blacksmithing work. Usually slap a magnet on the anvil and it takes away the ringing every time you strike it. Should be able to do the same with the steel back plate if you don't wanna mess with glue and drywall.

What size magnet, does it matter?

 

[Hold_Over]

What size magnet, does it matter?

I use these on an anvil. https://www.harborfreight.com/retri...nWEH3OgBODaHAEF_F1dsmI3Vgqc2RQuUaAhFBEALw_wcB