AEA HP SS .25 decided to go Full Auto!

Titanium is lightweight durable and springy. It will withstand better in my opinion the hammering
of the bolt action. While I really like the HP when it works, its being badly engineered and thus all
the issues. You can spend time fixing all of them but this is something the manufacturer should have
done from the start. I have been using for years the HW97K for example without a single issue.
Its something you can trust. With the HP you never know if the pellet will come out of the barrel
when you decide to pull the trigger. I am returning it back but I wanted to know if anybody else
had the same issue.
 
How was you going to cut the notch on the inside or the wheel? I would asssume a rotary index would work for most of the milling but the inside catch or notch has me puzzled. I have had some 3D printed in the past but lost the source. The 3D resin the guy used has held up well. Not sure what it is but it is not as flexable as the plastic they are currently made of.

You must have a cheap source for the titanium. Last I looked it is well over 200 bucks for a 1" by 12" rod. Do you use cobalt tooling or are you able to cut it with HSS?

PCP's and spring piston guns are not a good comparision. They too need tuned to get the most out of them. The HW97 is a fine rifle though. I have a FWB 124, A HW85 or R10 and a Kodiac in 25. None are as accurate as my PCP's in my hands, though I do enjoy shooting them. OK for single shots.
 
Last edited:
I was planning on giving it to an online CNC manufacturer in China and they could do it.
The price was very reasonable as well but then the metal magazines went permanently
out of stock and I canceled the job,

One of the main issues of the magazine apart of the terrible spring was the plastic they
used. Very soft and the bolt would cause permanent deformation. After a while the
magazine was not usable. Titanium can take a hit without deforming because its
springy. (good modulus of elasticity = it can bend without plastic deformation).
That was my plan anyway...
 
SS in 22

17042195256783079381611481179844.jpg
 

Need one of those. As Firewalker said you can regulate them also. He gets twice the shots as I do with his regulated system. Get a carbon fiber bottle. Mine is .3 liter. A .35 would work Perle has a .35 on his.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firewalker

Need one of those. As Firewalker said you can regulate them also. He gets twice the shots as I do with his regulated system. Get a carbon fiber bottle. Mine is .3 liter. A .35 would work Perle has a .35 on his.
That adapter has an M18x15 thread which connects to the air bottle.
How do you attach the other end to the AEA HP receiver?

Would a 60-62 mm diameter air bottle fit?
Or what diameter would fit?

Also, how do you attach a regulated bottle (since the adapter will not fit the regulator) ?
 
Last edited:
Beside the air gauge is a set screw. Loosen that and the air cylinder slides out of the receiver. Screw the adapter into your bottle and push the adaptor end into the receiver until flush. Make sure your adaptor holes are aligned to where your fill adaptor can be inserted. Tighten set screw. Yes a 62mm bottle will work.

Im sure you know this but make sure existing bottle is void of air before you proceed. If you look closely at the adapter you see an indent then two holes. Indent is where the set screw secures the adapter to receiver. The next hole feeds the air gauge, hole after that is the fill port. So adapter threads screw into bottle, make sure oring is in place. Then from bottle out you have indent for set screw, hole for gauge, and hole for fill port. Slide that into receiver. Clear?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: nobody1 and Perle
Beside the air gauge is a set screw. Loosen that and the air cylinder slides out of the receiver. Screw the adapter into your bottle and push the adaptor end into the receiver until flush. Make sure your adaptor holes are aligned to where your fill adaptor can be inserted. Tighten set screw. Yes a 62mm bottle will work.

Im sure you know this but make sure existing bottle is void of air before you proceed. If you look closely at the adapter you see an indent then two holes. Indent is where the set screw secures the adapter to receiver. The next hole feeds the air gauge, hole after that is the fill port. So adapter threads screw into bottle, make sure oring is in place. Then from bottle out you have indent for set screw, hole for gauge, and hole for fill port. Slide that into receiver. Clear?
My AEA HP SS .22 has the original air tube with the pressure gauge at the end of the tube.
The gauge is not on the receiver.

Does that change anything?
Will the adapter still work?