Huben Huben GK1 .22: A Beginner's Journey to a DIY Mini Carbine

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Custom Bottle Clamp

This was perfectly functional…but I decided to try my hand at designing my own bottle clamp. Mostly for the fun of it. But also because I wanted to add side rails to the clamp.

Here was my design process.

The bottle is 32mm in diameter. I based the diameter for my clamp on 33mm for some extra space. I felt 5mm wall thickness would be sufficient. And about 20mm at the top gap for clearance of the barrel. With these measurements I designed my toilet seat:

 

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Continuing with my personal preference in design--I decided I wanted to make this a 3 part clamp. I kind of like this design because the clamp can be disassembled--that way you do not have to slide it on.

So I broke the outline into a left clamp, a right clamp, and a center block.

I’ve added a few more details.

Slots to index the pieces together.

I’ve got the outline of the pic rail on the center block. I will add the side pic rails later as I will design 2 types--with and without side rails.

 

[Savagefox]

That's promising, I've work on a few detachable and extensible rear stock option, even folding ones for my GK1 perfected mod, that would screw on the rear port of the mod, but seeing as NOBODY download it or show any interest I kinda left it in limbo cuz I'm more of a pistol guy and not really interested in carbines.

My final config for the gun, for now is that:

Add a power regulator, lenght adjustable trigger, shorten the overall lenght, improving A LOT the precision discarding the triple barrel to slide pressing design and leaving a floating barrel, and finally made a silencer that no matter how ****ed up from factory your treads are, is gonna align with the barrel because it just follows it thigtly before the screwing, and it's backwards compatible with my silencer mod.

I'm not gonna upload it, because you don't deserve it.

 

[WobblyHand]

That's promising, I've work on a few detachable and extensible rear stock option, even folding ones for my GK1 perfected mod, that would screw on the rear port of the mod, but seeing as NOBODY download it or show any interest I kinda left it in limbo cuz I'm more of a pistol guy and not really interested in carbines.

View attachment 497734


My final config for the gun, for now is that:

View attachment 497735View attachment 497736



Add a power regulator, lenght adjustable trigger, shorten the overall lenght, improving A LOT the precision discarding the triple barrel to slide pressing design and leaving a floating barrel, and finally made a silencer that no matter how ****ed up from factory your treads are, is gonna align with the barrel because it just follows it thigtly before the screwing, and it's backwards compatible with my silencer mod.

I'm not gonna upload it, because you don't deserve it.

Why post about it, if you don't want to share it? Doesn't seem to be in the spirit of the forum.

 

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@Savagefox, your designs are soooo much more advanced than mine, a thing to behold.

For now, I'm just looking to add-on to my pistol, whereas yours are more transformative. At some point, I might look into trying them out.

 

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Custom Bottle Clamp, continued

And here were my finalized 3d designs.

They look a lot more advanced than the silhouettes I designed above, but the conversion to full pieces was pretty easy when done in steps:

1. Push the silhouettes to their final length, 45mm
2. Added a front lip to the clamp sides to index the pieces together to get the holes to line up
3. Added the front little decorative V to the middle block
4. Rounded the center block surface that interfaces with the bottle.
5. Added the through holes with the countersinking
6. Created the picatinny blocks, and merged them
7. Softened edges

 

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Custom Bottle Clamp, continued

This was by far the most ambitious 3d printing project I’ve done this far.
Take a look at the list of small prototype shapes I went thru before finalizing:

After all the tweaking, got a solid final design.
And then it was off to my printer.

But you may have noticed, the printer has changed!
This is part of the long delay since my last post.

I went for a deal on the Bambu Labs A1 with the AMS lite. While my first printer, the Creality Ender 3 V2, is an excellent starter machine, and I am grateful for having started with it, the Bambu Labs is the complete other end of the spectrum, and I love it.

As I mentioned before, the Creality machine was great because it forces you to understand all the concepts AND physical device mechanisms involved in 3d printing.

Bambu Labs philosophy is more like--great, you’ve learned that, and now let us take care of all that for you. I love the cloud printing, as my printer is in my shop, away from my computer. When things go wrong, the alerts are appropriate, accurate, and generally easy to fix. The speed is about 17 billion times faster, as it is Klipper based. I almost laughed the first time it started printing, in comparison to the Creality--I get whole projects printed in the time the Creality machine is still leveling the bed.

As a little informal and probably not entirely accurate explanation--earlier generation 3d printers are based on the Marlin format--which refers to the set of soft, firm, and hardware setup that is used to move the printer head and XY plate, such that the filament is extruded at the exact right time and place. As you might imagine this is crucial because these things are accurate to 0.1mm! Part of Marlin are SPEED LIMITS, because the acceleration and deceleration of the head will throw off the accuracy.

The newer generation of printers coming out now are Klipper based. This set of soft, firm, and hardware sort of approaches it differently. Basically, it is more like “I am a damn computer and I can do maths.” So it will actually calculate in the effects of acceleration and deceleration, rather than speed limit it.

Anyway, the first time I started printing with the Bambu Labs A1, it was actually laugh out loud ridiculously faster.

There is a bit of a learning curve also. In particular the software, Bambu slicer, looks a lot different than the universal Cura Slicer. It also seems to work so much better, as I assume it is actually tested and vetted by Bambu Labs. One new thing that works really well are tree supports. Supports are temporary breakaway supports generated by the Slicer program to support things, duh--most notably support things that have nothing underneath them ie overhangs. Remember, liquified filament is extruded from a tip, and thus, if there is nothing underneath, the melted plastic will just fall out of the air. Tree supports are a type of support system that look like trees--they work really well and are easy to break off.

 

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Anyways: my Bambu Labs A1:

To the right is the AMS lite system. This is an automatic multi color/filament system. Basically, you can load up to 4 different filaments, label them in the Slicer program, and voila, it can automatically switch in different filament colors, so you can “paint” your prints.

To the left, is the first thing everyone who gets an A1 or A1 mini--a poop bucket. Whenever the printer switches colors, it must purge the small amount of filament inside the print head. The A1 flings it off to the left.

Closer up, you can see the tree supports:

And the pieces cleaned up and put together:

 

[DonEnzone]

That's promising, I've work on a few detachable and extensible rear stock option, even folding ones for my GK1 perfected mod, that would screw on the rear port of the mod, but seeing as NOBODY download it or show any interest I kinda left it in limbo cuz I'm more of a pistol guy and not really interested in carbines.

View attachment 497734


My final config for the gun, for now is that:

View attachment 497735View attachment 497736



Add a power regulator, lenght adjustable trigger, shorten the overall lenght, improving A LOT the precision discarding the triple barrel to slide pressing design and leaving a floating barrel, and finally made a silencer that no matter how ****ed up from factory your treads are, is gonna align with the barrel because it just follows it thigtly before the screwing, and it's backwards compatible with my silencer mod.

I'm not gonna upload it, because you don't deserve it.

Wow, the arrogance is off the charts. If nobody shows interest in your design... maybe your design simply isn't all that appealing or useful to people. But I guess your inflated ego doesn't accept that possility, so instead you flip it around and WE are the ones don't deserve it.

Truth be told, I find your grip ugly as sin. Same goes for pretty much the whole frame (shroud, trigger, triggerguard etc). You have somehow turned a pristine airgun with a beautiful fit and finish into something you'd find in a toy store. In my eyes there is absolutely nothing "perfected" about this abomination.

But hey, that's just me. Maybe I just don't deserve it

 

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Here are the 3 different clamps that I have printed up thus far:

Left, with the side pic rail mounts.
Center, no side pic rails, assembled.
Right, original 1 piece.



And mounted up:

Here is a useful example of having the side rail: easy mount for my FX Chronograph:

Now it was time to add a foregrip:

So I rummaged thru my box of airgun parts for front grips, and found these guys:

All were inexpensive, found on sale at some point.

The left, seemed super gimmicky, and has never been used. It has a spring-loaded bipod built inside. Sturdy, but a little heavy.

The middle is a simple, light, and comfy grip, currently on my AEA HP SS.

The third is a fold-up grip. It is light, but a little wide for my hand.







Jump forward multiple months of trial, and the grip I have settled on may be surprising:

The gimmicky hidden bipod grip!


While a little heavier than I would prefer, I found that I use the grip and bipod very frequently.

As I have mentioned, I primarily use the air pistol for hunting squirrels. I don’t have the patience to actively hunt them. Instead, when I walk out of my house, I have several shooting lanes. If I see a squirrel, or even just sense a squirrel, I bring out my air pistol from the garage. In one lane, I usually have my standing Bog deathgrip tripod. In the other lane, sits my garbage can.

And here is the shooting lane:

I dispatched many a squirrel in this exact fashion. The first tree in the orchard has a few logs stacked (about 40 yards)--there is frequently an apple from the tree just to the right of it, sitting on the log. Fun way to make sure my scope is sighted in. I have gotten squirrels on that log, munching on the apple. My orchard extends all the way out to probably 100 yards (I have gotten squirrels that far out).

Anyways, I have had this setup now through the whole summer. It is at super functional state.

Here is a list of things I have done or added to my GK1.
Cleaned the barrel.
Added a Hugget Snipe Moderator.
3D printed a fillport plug.
Modified some standoff screws to replace the regular back plate screws--which allows for a non-structural 3D printed back picatinny rail mount.
Cut up an aluminum hiking stick to make an adjustable length stock--with a 3D printed pic mount on one side, and a 3D printed butt end on the other.
3D printed a top picatinny rail for scope mounting.
Added a Hawke Airmax Touch scope.
3D printed a bottle clamp with various picatinny rail mounts.
Added a fore grip.

What is next for me?
Well, squirrel season is done--they are now essentially hibernating. In fact, we are in the midst of 2 weeks of heavy rain, so not much opportunity for plinking.
I will probably be taking a break from this thread to focus on other projects.

I have a few things kicking around in my mind to do next:

1. I’m curious and would like to generate a few curves of air pressure vs speeds and accuracy.
2. Post my experiences with various moderators, particularly the previously posted 3d printed ones.
3. I think I can 3D print a better lighter fore grip, possibly with a bottom mini monopod functionality