Huben Huben GK1 3D printed silencer+adapter


I will made it available for download when I test the poop out of it.

It needs not to just silence the gun, but also not blow up in pieces at high power.


Also I want to know if the barrel treads are the same both on the 5.5 and the 6,35, If that's the case, I can make a 6.35 version in 5 minuts just making the holes a bit bigger.
 
Well... test made, about 100 shots. No explosion at low to mid power, but at high power, the first baffle lose a chunk.

I can reinforce the first baffle that I guess takes more punishment and a little bit the rest of them, but the other problem is that, the moderator is clearly altering the grouping and adds dispersion.

I can guess that, because there is always low imperfections on 3d printing, the pellet gets some turbulence when it pases for so many baffle holes with small diferences in diameter and irregularities, that's a problem on mid to long range shooting.


It pains me, but I guess I will have to make a empty chamber moderator with no baffles, and just pad the insides with something.

Do you guys have comercial moderators that adds dispersion or alter the point of impact? How do you deal with them?
 
check the bore test moderators free to print and use.
 
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I’m pretty skeptical about using a plastic mod on a pistol that can make the noise of a firearm. That noise is directly indicative of the energy of the expanding air. If a baffle breaks and causes the next shot to be deflected by 30 degrees, it might be the last shot you make. Simply not worth the risk to me.

With that said, I still commend you on your skills and innovation.
 
I’m pretty skeptical about using a plastic mod on a pistol that can make the noise of a firearm. That noise is directly indicative of the energy of the expanding air. If a baffle breaks and causes the next shot to be deflected by 30 degrees, it might be the last shot you make. Simply not worth the risk to me.

With that said, I still commend you on your skills and innovation.

Thanks, the silencer resisted even in high power. I used crappy PLA, basically the weakest, but in a thick wall design, a final model can be printed in PETG (same as plastic bottle) that has better resistance and can even be deformed to some degree, or even strong variations of TPU that's like tire rubber but less flexible.

As if it's dangerous... I don't think so if you are on the a 180º area BEHIND the gun, I conduct the test feeling pretty safe with just eye protection in case the silencer decides to go Allahu Akbar.

I found what have gonne wrong conducting more test, looks like if I turn the moderator, the point of impact turn as well, so it's not 100% straight aligned, the fault is on the custom tread design.

Disecting the moderator with a rotary saw I found lead debris and traces of internal impacts on the baffles, and surprisingly, that doesn't break them, just conducts the pellet like a barrel extension, so, with enougth thigth, basic plastic is pretty strong as long as you don't add heat. There is an episode of Demolition Ranch where Matt makes scalextric like tunnels with stupid materials, and surprislingly real bullets follow the way of pretty much anything even on extreme angles.



So... I guess that, cause I made the entry diamether of my baffles a tiny bit larger than the exit one, that have caused to actually redirect the pellet in a curve all along the baffle line without damaging them too much.

If that's the only problem, a corrected model should work just fine, sadly I will have to whait until I can verify that, cause printing it directly on my home is illegal... yeah yeah... who cares... daddy govern cares, gun laws and control are pretty extreme and stupid around here so I will do things 100% legal.
 
Thanks, the silencer resisted even in high power. I used crappy PLA, basically the weakest, but in a thick wall design, a final model can be printed in PETG (same as plastic bottle) that has better resistance and can even be deformed to some degree, or even strong variations of TPU that's like tire rubber but less flexible.

As if it's dangerous... I don't think so if you are on the a 180º area BEHIND the gun, I conduct the test feeling pretty safe with just eye protection in case the silencer decides to go Allahu Akbar.

I found what have gonne wrong conducting more test, looks like if I turn the moderator, the point of impact turn as well, so it's not 100% straight aligned, the fault is on the custom tread design.

Disecting the moderator with a rotary saw I found lead debris and traces of internal impacts on the baffles, and surprisingly, that doesn't break them, just conducts the pellet like a barrel extension, so, with enougth thigth, basic plastic is pretty strong as long as you don't add heat. There is an episode of Demolition Ranch where Matt makes scalextric like tunnels with stupid materials, and surprislingly real bullets follow the way of pretty much anything even on extreme angles.



So... I guess that, cause I made the entry diamether of my baffles a tiny bit larger than the exit one, that have caused to actually redirect the pellet in a curve all along the baffle line without damaging them too much.

If that's the only problem, a corrected model should work just fine, sadly I will have to whait until I can verify that, cause printing it directly on my home is illegal... yeah yeah... who cares... daddy govern cares, gun laws and control are pretty extreme and stupid around here so I will do things 100% legal.
I’m not thinking of shooters safety, but any person, vehicle, house etc within a 50 degree radius of the POI.
 
Ok, cristmas over, I get back to work with Gk1.

The problem with the moderator was at how the damn program drawed the 12mm treads, there was a slight bent, so I have to re-done them with special care, pieces ordered, if everything is ok, I will put the silencer + an alternative loading gate to download.

Gk1.jpg




The loading gate will have a naked or cover versions, no need to put magnets or any extra bolt.



Gk1.jpg




Also working in a new handle that reduces the extra space of the original and adds a power selector on the go + detachable rear stock option in diana chaser style. The power selector will have a mechanical indicator in form of a vertical gauge + internal piece to act as a stopper, for countries with legal power limits as it is mine. I will have to advance the whole trigger and the thing may take a while to finish. 3.5 revolutions is the max, right?

Things that I want to know more about... they say that you must turn 1/4 the regulator and shoot every time, but I seen Gregor itself adjusting freely, and as far as I can tell about the design, it should not matter as the regulator it seems to be just a bolt with spacer that acts as a stopper on the exhaust valve that allows air flow from the plenum.

I am missing something?
 
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Do you guys have comercial moderators that adds dispersion or alter the point of impact? How do you deal with them?

Ensure that your moderator bore is coaxial with the barrel bore.
Make the baffle bores a bit larger to reduce the potential for aerodynamic projectile steering, or actual contact with the projectile. Especially towards the front of the moderator, where angular error will be multiplied.

What radial clearance are you using for your moderator? It looks light, so I don't think the weight is flexing the barrel - unless the barrel mount to the breech or shroud is loose. Push sideways, and up and down on the shroud at the muzzle with your fingers to see if it moves freely. Don't shoot yourself. At light force, there should not be obvious movement.

Which way are you groups disturbed? Up; down; left or right? Or are the groups just larger with the moderator on, than off? What is the internal diameter of your moderator? At some point, air rushing past the pellet from behind can cause it to wobble.

Don't give up.