I like this gun ! i have absolutely no reason to buy one . I really try to invent at least one reason to buy and i just cannot do it .
I will probably just go with "i want one ."
So my practical application is pretty thinly justified "gun for kayak fishing and hiking" but man, it is just tons of fun to plink with and just have fun shooting! I've got mine dialed in for 2 full mags, and a string of 19 sprite cans out back...those cans are getting a bit thin now tho!
 
Bernie,

Two updates: First, I tried the Tatsu and it doesn’t seem any louder than the Sumo. Still has that metallic ting but there’s nothing clipping. Second, I asked my wife to shoot it and stood 15 feet away and of course, it was barely noticeable and the pellet hitting a tree was much louder! This is shooting JTS dead center 18.1 domes at 820, which is as low as I can go while keeping good accuracy. I think I’m pretty zoned in on these settings and pellets for the backyard, with the caveat that once the shine wears off, I’ll probably go back to using my Leshiy Classic 177 for that purpose.

That Tatsu with the pistol is definitely backyard friendly at 27 ft/lbs. Plus, I would assume that the Tatsu has less or no barrel droop than the Sumo.
 
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I will not shoot unsuppressed in my yard for a full comparative analysis, but I see no POI change between a Sumo, Tatsu or a very light (and as loud as I’m willing to go!) one section Huma Mod30. Again with the JTS 18.1s. I already tried my two impulse airs (1200 and 1350) and have a Huggett atom and Altaros mod from my Panthera yet to try but I suspect that the Tatsu is going to win (again) in this application. I have my 2moa red dot arriving today and while I’d love to keep it iron-sights-only, my bifocality nixes that option.
 
Also been closely monitoring the JTS 18.1s in the mag as it rotates during the shot cycle. They’ve held firm so far through >200. My experience with the rifles indicates pellets that don’t hold firm get dinged and suffer in accuracy (in addition to causing jams). While the GTOs are most accurate, as I mentioned above, they are unexpectedly louder (at lower power), don’t expand on impact and are expensive.
 
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Anyone have a phone number for Ares Tactical?. Trying to get an adapter for my GK1, can't get Kelly at Krazy Kool to respond to my texts.
Ares website says contact them to order, but no phone number is given. Thanks much

FYI... Kelly (KrazCool) has a regular 'day job' and sometimes can't respond until after work. Normally, he's pretty good with text responses.
 
Yesterday, a fellow who frequents AGN contacted me via GTA PM, asking if I could design a muffler for his .25 Huben pistol. Specifically, 1.5" OD x 5" long. It needed to have an offset bore, so the stock sights would not be obscured.

I whipped up the design below in about 8 hours; then made some improvements to include a printed 1/2-20 thread version, and a version that would accept a 5/8" - 11 / 1/2 - 20 thread insert.

As I did this design for free I retain the right to share it as I see fit. Anyway, I notice you guys asking about offset moderators for the Huben pistol. So here is a potential candidate that you can 3D print for yourself.

No one has printed this design yet; let alone tested it. I have no control over your material choice or print quality. So, should you print one for your own use, you assume responsibility for your own safety. If I was selling the design or parts, I would have test results indicating acceptable performance, strength, durability and grouping ability.

The design uses a "can in a can" approach to have a longer path that "looks conventional" to the projectile. This is to reduce the time the projectile spends travelling through asymmetrical turbulence.

The design has 4 mm thick walls around the primary blast chamber. That chamber communicates with a forward offset expansion space via 16 x 2 mm diameter vent holes. The rear of the primary blast chamber is cored out with slots around the barrel stud thread, These slots are to reduce pressure wave bounce in the primary blast chamber. Ahead of the primary blast chamber the wall thickness is thinned down considerably because the bulk pressure is lower there; and to keep the unit mass close to 100 grams.

The forward-most expansion chamber vents downward into its own offset space, via a single large triangular opening. The triangular shape is so that the unit can be FDM 3D printed, while standing on its front end; threaded end up. That is the only position in which this part can be FDM printed.

The two STL files are attached in a ZIP file.

You will need to use shims from 0.025" down in perhaps 0.005" steps to "clock" the offset OD out of the sight-line. The muffler version that takes a metal thread insert may be clocked by rotating the insert, or with a shim of the right thickness.

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This thing is amazing. Thank You @subscriber for the design. It measured 15 dB reduction in sound level. This is the most I have seen any moderator do before and does not obstruct the iron sights. I printed the version with the enlarged threads and that was a mistake. The threads are too loose on this version. Am printing the regular version now and will use a tap as a thread chaser. I put a rubber oring between the moderator and the gun. That mkes the moderator center on the threads rather than the mating surfaces of the gun and moderator. POI is only 1/8" lower with moderator on at 10 yards and the moderator can be easily turned so that the larger portion is down.

@bernieorosz asked what the absolute sound level was. The absolute level is 70 dBa @ 10 ft and 83 dBa at 1.5 ft from the gun with the mic pointed at the gun. I think most of the sound was coming from the pellet hitting the trap and not from the gun. I had the gun set for minimum power which measured 5 Ft Lbs. The pellet is a 16 grn H&K pointed copper coated. I use the gun mainly for target practice in the back yard and don't really need a lot of power. It is definately backyard friendly when configured this way.

Jim K.

Huben3.jpg
 
This thing is amazing. Thank You @subscriber for the design. It measured 15 dB reduction in sound level. This is the most I have seen any moderator do before and does not obstruct the iron sights. I printed the version with the enlarged threads and that was a mistake. The threads are too loose on this version. Am printing the regular version now and will use a tap as a thread chaser. I put a rubber oring between the moderator and the gun. That mkes the moderator center on the threads rather than the mating surfaces of the gun and moderator. POI is only 1/8" lower with moderator on at 10 yards and the moderator can be easily turned so that the larger portion is down.

@bernieorosz asked what the absolute sound level was. The absolute level is 70 dBa @ 10 ft and 83 dBa at 1.5 ft from the gun with the mic pointed at the gun. I think most of the sound was coming from the pellet hitting the trap and not from the gun. I had the gun set for minimum power which measured 5 Ft Lbs. The pellet is a 16 grn H&K pointed copper coated. I use the gun mainly for target practice in the back yard and don't really need a lot of power. It is definately backyard friendly when configured this way.

Jim K.

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Any chance you willing to try it at higher power levels?
 
GK1 .25 shooting JSB 25 grain 695fps 27 foot/lb Hugget Snipe backyard friendly for L.A. county with nosy neighbors. I am using the Kraz Cool adapter. Haven't got it sighted in, making an adapter plate. So I can't answer droop questions. I did notice the original front plug has a centering taper to keep the barrel from drooping. From images the other adapters don't, they rely on the adapter diameter, and the Kraz cool adapter does as well. I'm happy with my adapter and the results. In my experience in prior testing the Hugget Snipe against a Sumo (sold so can't test it on GK1) the Snipe was quieter. It was certainly quieter than the Tanto.
 
Same, the minimum I can get mine to go is about 20-22ish fpe at the muzzle in .25 cal
My GK1 is .22 Cal. It goes down to 5 FPE on minimum power. Will try higher power when new one finishes printing. I plan to use mine on minimum power for plinking and target practice. It will definitely make a lot more noise on hi power.

Jim K.
 
Same, the minimum I can get mine to go is about 20-22ish fpe at the muzzle in .25 cal
My GK1 is .22 Cal. On high power (2 turns counterclockwise) it produced 39.1 FPE at 1048 FPS with 16 grn pellet. Sound Level at 10 Ft was 78 dBa and sound Level at 1.5 Ft was 90 dBa with moderator on. It seems to make about 8 dB more noise on High Power. Again most of the noise seemed to be coming from the pellet trap. Not sure what level constitutes backyard friendly?

Jim K.
 
My GK1 is .22 Cal. On high power (2 turns counterclockwise) it produced 39.1 FPE at 1048 FPS with 16 grn pellet. Sound Level at 10 Ft was 78 dBa and sound Level at 1.5 Ft was 90 dBa with moderator on. It seems to make about 8 dB more noise on High Power. Again most of the noise seemed to be coming from the pellet trap. Not sure what level constitutes backyard friendly?

Jim K.
So you getting 40 FPE out of a .22 @ 250 BAR ? that is excellent
 
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