Huben pistol.

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ctshooter said:
Definitely is. My .25 I have tuned for ~40 fpe and get one full mag from 250 down to 150bar. I have no interest in trying to fill it to 300 or 350 bar - seems like a fools pursuit that will get old quick. I don't need a 60 fpe pistol.
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We think alike, I also plan to fill to 250 BAR but don't need a full mag so probably set it more towards the 50 FPE range.

I love that if you just want to play around a bit you can easily and quickly de-tune it,.....that would be even more handy with a .22 where you can get 14gr pellets, then tune it up for the heavies.
 
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I think filling to 250 is sound advice. The valve is a blow open design so obviously, the more pressure, the harder it is going to blow open. There is a rubber bumper that is supposed to absorb the energy, guide the spring and keep the spring from bottoming out. I have already bent one spring (I can see why there is a spare) from filling to 300.

This is a long thread so I’m sure I’m repeating someone else’s observations.

I’ll be keeping mine at 250 and below.

Dave
 
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I did a bunch of testing and found one anomaly on the lower pressure range, at about 150bar or so, my shots start pulling to the left. at 120 bar, its shooting 6" to the left at 50 yards. If i keep it from 300 bar to 170 bar, its perfectly zeroed. This happens with every ammo i've tried, at all power levels. Currently tuned for 43fpe - one full mag of 28.5gr VK slug at 800-840fps...at stops right at 170 bar. it works for me but I was really hoping for a lower pressure fill too.
 
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I got mine from KRAZ Kool/Kelly last week. I was able to get his last-ish GK1 (long explanation but, suffices to say Kelly took really good care of me) and, after visiting with him for a while in his shop, I'm definitely going to contact him again for both purchases and mod work. Solid guy with world class customer service.
 
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ATEEZ said:
I got mine from KRAZ Kool/Kelly last week. I was able to get his last-ish GK1 (long explanation but, suffices to say Kelly took really good care of me) and, after visiting with him for a while in his shop, I'm definitely going to contact him again for both purchases and mod work. Solid guy with world class customer service.
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I'm in Cape Girardeau in Southeast Missouri and I plan on heading up that way soon. I will definitely go by Kelly's when I do. I've just emailed and talked to him but the man is knowledgeable for sure, and I'm getting a K1 to compliment my GK1
 
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Something you might want to be aware of here…. I’m about 1200 shots through my 22. Mostly GTOs with a few other things tested and a couple bags AVS slugs. Noticed over the last tin of pellets that accuracy went south. 2-3in groups at 30y, which is really uncharacteristic. First checked my optics and then if the barrel/shroud nut had worked loose but everything was snug and it still shot poorly after tightening. Next step was to clean the barrel. I had done that on arrival and a lot of gunk came out. Surprisingly there was even more of it today - a real oily mess. Much worse than anything I’ve seen from another PCP. The gunk was literally coating the cleaning rod on the first 4 passes. Like it had been dipped in a black milkshake. It took 14 wet patches to clean it out. I scraped a bunch of the black “milkshake” off the rod and it is clear that it is grease. I can only imagine that it has made its way into the barrel from the action. I noticed when I changed the spring and buffer several weeks ago that there was a lot of grease packed in that area. Anyway, it was back to shooting pellet on pellet after the clean, so it’s a happy ending. I’ll make a point to clean it after each couple tins of 200. The GTOs themselves are super clean and shiny and there’s rarely anything on patches from other barrels shooting them. Hopefully this excess grease will diminish over time. Watch out for that, fellas!

You can quickly assess your own by sticking a drinking straw in the muzzle end. It’s not subtle.
 
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Harold999 said:
Is it necessary to shoot between each quarter of a turn?
I can remember the story with some other guns that it was only necessary when turning the power up. If you go down you can go all the way without the need of shooting in between quarter turns. Or it was the other way around, can't remember.
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You can turn the power adjuster hex key as much or little as you want. It's just easier to discuss power settings using the 1/4 adjustments. Plus, it's a little easier to repeat the setting visually.

In my case, I'm using 1.5 turns out for most of my backyard target shooting (I don't hunt). Plus, that setting is pretty close to the loudness max for my backyard friendly. However, if I want a tiny bit more ft/lbs, I could just turn it out a little more, somewhere between 1.5-2.0. No problem for the pistol.
 
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Harold999 said:
Is it necessary to shoot between each quarter of a turn?
I can remember the story with some other guns that it was only necessary when turning the power up. If you go down you can go all the way without the need of shooting in between quarter turns. Or it was the other way around, can't remember.
Click to expand...
The speed adjuster is not a pressure regulator. It is a high speed valve. You don't need to shoot it between adjustments. The results are almost instant. Almost instant because it may take a second for the springs and pressure to balance and settle for the 1st post adjustment shot.
 
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weevil said:
Something you might want to be aware of here…. I’m about 1200 shots through my 22. Mostly GTOs with a few other things tested and a couple bags AVS slugs. Noticed over the last tin of pellets that accuracy went south. 2-3in groups at 30y, which is really uncharacteristic. First checked my optics and then if the barrel/shroud nut had worked loose but everything was snug and it still shot poorly after tightening. Next step was to clean the barrel. I had done that on arrival and a lot of gunk came out. Surprisingly there was even more of it today - a real oily mess. Much worse than anything I’ve seen from another PCP. The gunk was literally coating the cleaning rod on the first 4 passes. Like it had been dipped in a black milkshake. It took 14 wet patches to clean it out. I scraped a bunch of the black “milkshake” off the rod and it is clear that it is grease. I can only imagine that it has made its way into the barrel from the action. I noticed when I changed the spring and buffer several weeks ago that there was a lot of grease packed in that area. Anyway, it was back to shooting pellet on pellet after the clean, so it’s a happy ending. I’ll make a point to clean it after each couple tins of 200. The GTOs themselves are super clean and shiny and there’s rarely anything on patches from other barrels shooting them. Hopefully this excess grease will diminish over time. Watch out for that, fellas!

You can quickly assess your own by sticking a drinking straw in the muzzle end. It’s not subtle.
Click to expand...

Cleaning the barrel of this pistol is what I dread the most...lol. I temporarily screwed up my K1 after cleaning, and Kelly at KrazCool Airguns had to help me out. Somehow I must have gotten Ballistol in the baffles or somewhere as it started to clip and group poorly.

We/I need a "Definitive Guide To Huben Barrel Cleaning"... :)
 
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I have a very easy method.

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It holds the patch in the outer blue tube during insertion, and the patch gets pushed out inside the barrel. Black marks on the rods indicate how far to push in the outer blue tube and then how far to push in the yellow inner rod to release the patch. The pistol is very easy to clean with this method. I then use a qtip with a drop of cleaner to do the mag. 20 min to run 15 patches through. I do remove the battles and drop them into alcohol when I do the rifles!

It was made from a Sullivan RC control rod but any rod and tube of around .20 will work. A fly line loop holds the patch, epoxied into the yellow rod.
 
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weevil said:
I have a very easy method.

View attachment 398169View attachment 398170View attachment 398171
It holds the patch in the outer blue tube during insertion, and the patch gets pushed out inside the barrel. Black marks on the rods indicate how far to push in the outer blue tube and then how far to push in the yellow inner rod to release the patch. The pistol is very easy to clean with this method. I then use a qtip with a drop of cleaner to do the mag. 20 min to run 15 patches through. I do remove the battles and drop them into alcohol when I do the rifles!

It was made from a Sullivan RC control rod but any rod and tube of around .20 will work. A fly line loop holds the patch, epoxied into the yellow rod.
Click to expand...
This is a good idea, thank you! I’ve already got the parts off eBay to assemble it. I saw this when you posted it earlier.
 
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Sergey1972 said:
The speed adjuster is not a pressure regulator. It is a high speed valve. You don't need to shoot it between adjustments. The results are almost instant. Almost instant because it may take a second for the springs and pressure to balance and settle for the 1st post adjustment shot.
Click to expand...


I just read the manual and it says "from low to high needs to be done gradually, 1/4 turn every time".

Maybe they mean with this to not do a full turn but do it easy with quarter turns?
 
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Harold999 said:
Is it necessary to shoot between each quarter of a turn?
I can remember the story with some other guns that it was only necessary when turning the power up. If you go down you can go all the way without the need of shooting in between quarter turns. Or it was the other way around, can't remember.
Click to expand...
Nope, your not adjusting a reg when you do it. It's a magic thing Huben did...lol, it may be though. The hammerless system is pretty damn cool, close to magic I guess. I didn't read other posts but I'm sure someone mentioned already bro.

David
 
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ctshooter said:
Definitely is. My .25 I have tuned for ~40 fpe and get one full mag from 250 down to 150bar. I have no interest in trying to fill it to 300 or 350 bar - seems like a fools pursuit that will get old quick. I don't need a 60 fpe pistol.
Click to expand...
I'm able to fill mine in 5 minutes with my battery powered air compressor, and I love being able to get 60 FPE out of my pistol. When I spend that much money on something I want to get the most capability out of it, why buy it if you're not going to push it?
 
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