The bushing goes around the spring; I am unsure if you call it a guide? Since my last spring, I have been filling to 4000 & shooting 22-grain pellets 840ish. But I think I am going to drop back to 800. My first spring failed at 800 fps with 22 grains, but 5000 fill. I lowered my fill to 4000 to make it easier to latch /unlatch the cylinder lock; at 5000 fill, it fills like I would break the latch. It could be poor spring material. I doubt I am the only one experiencing these failures. In many of these posts, people are shooting much higher ft pounds. The thing is, if you dont take the cap off the end, you may not know your spring is broken. Maybe a two-piece spring is ok, LOL.Is there a lot of space for that spring to bend within its cavity/bore? I would imagine a guide may help if so; if not, hot dang. Quite the thick spring to break; nonetheless, reducing your fill pressure and power would help.
-Matt
Bad mechanical design. The sleeve doesn't seem to allow the section of spring inside it to compress, which means that the sections of spring which emerge from it are effectively "as if" welded to a solid piece at a _fixed angle_. Weld a spring to sit vertically on a piece of metal surface and smack it with a hammer a few times and the same thing would happen at the base - the base can't compress to sit flush with the surface along with the rest of the spring as the spring wire angle cannot change at the welding point.This is the second striker spring I have had a break. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace, but it should last longer. This time, when I installed the new spring & bushing, I lubed it up with this lube that Krazy Kool recommended to me—I got the lube on Amazon. I did not notice any problems with the performance with the broken spring both times, I had found it when I disassembled it for another reason.
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This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?Bad mechanical design. The sleeve doesn't seem to allow the section of spring inside it to compress, which means that the sections of spring that emerge from it are effective "as if" welded to a solid piece at a _fixed angle_. Weld a spring to sit vertically on a piece of metal surface and smack it with a hammer a few times, and the same thing would happen at the base - the base can't compress to sit flush with the surface along with the rest of the spring as the spring wire angle cannot change at the welding point.
To prevent this from happening - there should be (somehow) no "threads" inside the sleeve, and the sleeve should be kept in the middle in some other way.
The Huben rifle has been out a good while, is this an issue with them? I never see much about it on forums. Is this something specific to the pistol /bushing/spring or improper installation?The whole reason I moved away from AEA's semi-auto lineup is because you essentially have to keep a box full of valve pins on the side, because they keep breaking like toothpicks. It's become clear that AEA doesn't care, as this design flaw keeps being carried over from one model to the next. I expect Huben to live up to a higher standard. Hopefully they can offer a solution soon.
I can't say without looking at the rest of the pistol (which I'll receive in a week), but the spring should be able to move freely inside the guide, if it doesn't. This in turn probably means that the guide can't be made to sit in the middle, as they may have intended. Me, I might source a wider thicker spring that doesn't need a guide, but without the pistol I don't know how well that will fit with everything else.This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?
Would 2 plastic guides minimize the stress point?This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?
JD - very helpful analysis! Thanks for your time. Here is a link to the schematic of the rifle for comparison. I recently replace the orings on the striker spring on mine. They often get eaten when it jams and releases a blast of air from the mag. Perhaps the spring breakage is related to jams with the pistol.If these are numbers 8 and 9 in the exploded drawing in the manual, then the sleeve is actually "striker buffer" and should sit at the back of the spring, and the spring should be able to move freely in it. The buffer (it would seem to me) is what stops the striker from moving too far back and compressing the spring all the way to a block, which could damage both.
What might be happening is that the striker is beating the plastic buffer shorter, which in turn reduces the inner diameter, to the point where the inner diameter is reduced enough for it to start gripping the spring, at which point the spring stops being able to move freely in it and breaks at the point where the spring wire emerges from the plastic. Harder plastic (or metal), plus a rubber washer of the correct size glued to the front of it might be the way to go, depending on what the striker is actually made of. Or maybe just larger ID. Or maybe the buffer is too short to begin with -but unlikely.
This should be relatively easy to fix in all cases, *if* it happens on more pistols and isn't just a one-off for some other strange reason.
If all this is correct then the plastic bit isn't a spring guide, and a different size spring wouldn't be the way to go - the spring has to fit inside the striker and it needs a buffer. Maybe a thicker wire spring, if the block size still allows it to compress all the way, but the OD can't change.
BTW the higher the power levels, the harder the "striker" is driven backwards by the HPA during each shot (it's not a striker, functionally, it's just a valve and this is its return spring).
JDGriz that makes sense, cause every time i took the end cap off that buffer/guide is tight up against the endcap. I thought maybe i did not center it.If these are numbers 8 and 9 in the exploded drawing in the manual, then the sleeve is actually "striker buffer" and should sit at the back of the spring, and the spring should be able to move freely in it. The buffer (it would seem to me) is what stops the striker from moving too far back and compressing the spring all the way to a block, which could damage both.
What might be happening is that the striker is beating the plastic buffer shorter, which in turn reduces the inner diameter, to the point where the inner diameter is reduced enough for it to start gripping the spring, at which point the spring stops being able to move freely in it and breaks at the point where the spring wire emerges from the plastic. Harder plastic (or metal), plus a rubber washer of the correct size glued to the front of it might be the way to go, depending on what the striker is actually made of. Or maybe just larger ID. Or maybe the buffer is too short to begin with -but unlikely.
This should be relatively easy to fix in all cases, *if* it happens on more pistols and isn't just a one-off for some other strange reason.
If all this is correct then the plastic bit isn't a spring guide, and a different size spring wouldn't be the way to go - the spring has to fit inside the striker and it needs a buffer. Maybe a thicker wire spring, if the block size still allows it to compress all the way, but the OD can't change.
BTW the higher the power levels, the harder the "striker" is driven backwards by the HPA during each shot (it's not a striker, functionally, it's just a valve and this is its return spring).
Can this O-ring on the K1 change position along the length of the hole behind the striker or is there something holding it in place towards the back? Can the striker move it about?JD - very helpful analysis! Thanks for your time. Here is a link to the schematic of the rifle for comparison. I recently replace the orings on the striker spring on mine. They often get eaten when it jams and releases a blast of air from the mag. Perhaps the spring breakage is related to jams with the pistol.
Huben K1 Exploded drawings and Spare part list
www.airgunnation.com