This is the second striker spring I have had a break. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace, but it should last longer. This time, when I installed the new spring & bushing, I lubed it up with this lube that Krazy Kool recommended to me—I got the lube on Amazon. I did not notice any problems with the performance with the broken spring both times, I had found it when I disassembled it for another reason.

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Is there a lot of space for that spring to bend within its cavity/bore? I would imagine a guide may help if so; if not, hot dang. Quite the thick spring to break; nonetheless, reducing your fill pressure and power would help.

-Matt
The bushing goes around the spring; I am unsure if you call it a guide? Since my last spring, I have been filling to 4000 & shooting 22-grain pellets 840ish. But I think I am going to drop back to 800. My first spring failed at 800 fps with 22 grains, but 5000 fill. I lowered my fill to 4000 to make it easier to latch /unlatch the cylinder lock; at 5000 fill, it fills like I would break the latch. It could be poor spring material. I doubt I am the only one experiencing these failures. In many of these posts, people are shooting much higher ft pounds. The thing is, if you dont take the cap off the end, you may not know your spring is broken. Maybe a two-piece spring is ok, LOL.
 
Ah yes a bushing would be a considered a guide, (anything that reduces side to side spring movement upon compression/decompression).

I suspect a combination of fill pressure and as you said possibly compromised material strength. The force going on in that action is definitely quite high nonetheless as that spring appears thick! Someone else mentioned a broken spring in this thread a few pages back.

-Matt
 
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This is the second striker spring I have had a break. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace, but it should last longer. This time, when I installed the new spring & bushing, I lubed it up with this lube that Krazy Kool recommended to me—I got the lube on Amazon. I did not notice any problems with the performance with the broken spring both times, I had found it when I disassembled it for another reason.

View attachment 402892

View attachment 402893
Bad mechanical design. The sleeve doesn't seem to allow the section of spring inside it to compress, which means that the sections of spring which emerge from it are effectively "as if" welded to a solid piece at a _fixed angle_. Weld a spring to sit vertically on a piece of metal surface and smack it with a hammer a few times and the same thing would happen at the base - the base can't compress to sit flush with the surface along with the rest of the spring as the spring wire angle cannot change at the welding point.
To prevent this from happening - there should be (somehow) no "threads" inside the sleeve, and the sleeve should be kept in the middle in some other way.
 
Bad mechanical design. The sleeve doesn't seem to allow the section of spring inside it to compress, which means that the sections of spring that emerge from it are effective "as if" welded to a solid piece at a _fixed angle_. Weld a spring to sit vertically on a piece of metal surface and smack it with a hammer a few times, and the same thing would happen at the base - the base can't compress to sit flush with the surface along with the rest of the spring as the spring wire angle cannot change at the welding point.
To prevent this from happening - there should be (somehow) no "threads" inside the sleeve, and the sleeve should be kept in the middle in some other way.
This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?
 
The whole reason I moved away from AEA's semi-auto lineup is because you essentially have to keep a box full of valve pins on the side, because they keep breaking like toothpicks. It's become clear that AEA doesn't care, as this design flaw keeps being carried over from one model to the next. I expect Huben to live up to a higher standard. Hopefully they can offer a solution soon.
 
The whole reason I moved away from AEA's semi-auto lineup is because you essentially have to keep a box full of valve pins on the side, because they keep breaking like toothpicks. It's become clear that AEA doesn't care, as this design flaw keeps being carried over from one model to the next. I expect Huben to live up to a higher standard. Hopefully they can offer a solution soon.
The Huben rifle has been out a good while, is this an issue with them? I never see much about it on forums. Is this something specific to the pistol /bushing/spring or improper installation?
 
This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?
I can't say without looking at the rest of the pistol (which I'll receive in a week), but the spring should be able to move freely inside the guide, if it doesn't. This in turn probably means that the guide can't be made to sit in the middle, as they may have intended. Me, I might source a wider thicker spring that doesn't need a guide, but without the pistol I don't know how well that will fit with everything else.
 
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This makes me think of something about the plastic guide. I am going to take it apart again and make sure the guide is in the middle of the spring. I put grease on the guide and the spring. Maybe I should not put grease on the outside of the guide so it is more likely to stay in the middle of the spring. Only lubricate the internals of the guide and the whole spring??? What do you think?
Would 2 plastic guides minimize the stress point?

Having opened mine about 350 pellets in, for my carbine idea. It did leak lube out all three bolts till finalized tightness. Don't think can avoid slickness anywhere on guide
 
If these are numbers 8 and 9 in the exploded drawing in the manual, then the sleeve is actually "striker buffer" and should sit at the back of the spring, and the spring should be able to move freely in it. The buffer (it would seem to me) is what stops the striker from moving too far back and compressing the spring all the way to a block, which could damage both.
What might be happening is that the striker is beating the plastic buffer shorter, which in turn reduces the inner diameter, to the point where the inner diameter is reduced enough for it to start gripping the spring, at which point the spring stops being able to move freely in it and breaks at the point where the spring wire emerges from the plastic. Harder plastic (or metal), plus a rubber washer of the correct size glued to the front of it might be the way to go, depending on what the striker is actually made of. Or maybe just larger ID. Or maybe the buffer is too short to begin with -but unlikely.
This should be relatively easy to fix in all cases, *if* it happens on more pistols and isn't just a one-off for some other strange reason.

If all this is correct then the plastic bit isn't a spring guide, and a different size spring wouldn't be the way to go - the spring has to fit inside the striker and it needs a buffer. Maybe a thicker wire spring, if the block size still allows it to compress all the way, but the OD can't change.
BTW the higher the power levels, the harder the "striker" is driven backwards by the HPA during each shot (it's not a striker, functionally, it's just a valve and this is its return spring).
 
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If these are numbers 8 and 9 in the exploded drawing in the manual, then the sleeve is actually "striker buffer" and should sit at the back of the spring, and the spring should be able to move freely in it. The buffer (it would seem to me) is what stops the striker from moving too far back and compressing the spring all the way to a block, which could damage both.
What might be happening is that the striker is beating the plastic buffer shorter, which in turn reduces the inner diameter, to the point where the inner diameter is reduced enough for it to start gripping the spring, at which point the spring stops being able to move freely in it and breaks at the point where the spring wire emerges from the plastic. Harder plastic (or metal), plus a rubber washer of the correct size glued to the front of it might be the way to go, depending on what the striker is actually made of. Or maybe just larger ID. Or maybe the buffer is too short to begin with -but unlikely.
This should be relatively easy to fix in all cases, *if* it happens on more pistols and isn't just a one-off for some other strange reason.

If all this is correct then the plastic bit isn't a spring guide, and a different size spring wouldn't be the way to go - the spring has to fit inside the striker and it needs a buffer. Maybe a thicker wire spring, if the block size still allows it to compress all the way, but the OD can't change.
BTW the higher the power levels, the harder the "striker" is driven backwards by the HPA during each shot (it's not a striker, functionally, it's just a valve and this is its return spring).
JD - very helpful analysis! Thanks for your time. Here is a link to the schematic of the rifle for comparison. I recently replace the orings on the striker spring on mine. They often get eaten when it jams and releases a blast of air from the mag. Perhaps the spring breakage is related to jams with the pistol.

 
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If these are numbers 8 and 9 in the exploded drawing in the manual, then the sleeve is actually "striker buffer" and should sit at the back of the spring, and the spring should be able to move freely in it. The buffer (it would seem to me) is what stops the striker from moving too far back and compressing the spring all the way to a block, which could damage both.
What might be happening is that the striker is beating the plastic buffer shorter, which in turn reduces the inner diameter, to the point where the inner diameter is reduced enough for it to start gripping the spring, at which point the spring stops being able to move freely in it and breaks at the point where the spring wire emerges from the plastic. Harder plastic (or metal), plus a rubber washer of the correct size glued to the front of it might be the way to go, depending on what the striker is actually made of. Or maybe just larger ID. Or maybe the buffer is too short to begin with -but unlikely.
This should be relatively easy to fix in all cases, *if* it happens on more pistols and isn't just a one-off for some other strange reason.

If all this is correct then the plastic bit isn't a spring guide, and a different size spring wouldn't be the way to go - the spring has to fit inside the striker and it needs a buffer. Maybe a thicker wire spring, if the block size still allows it to compress all the way, but the OD can't change.
BTW the higher the power levels, the harder the "striker" is driven backwards by the HPA during each shot (it's not a striker, functionally, it's just a valve and this is its return spring).
JDGriz that makes sense, cause every time i took the end cap off that buffer/guide is tight up against the endcap. I thought maybe i did not center it.

weevil I never had any jams that i noticed. From the get-go, I have seated pellets and discarded any loose fitting ones. There isn't any blowby anywhere.

I would like to know if anyone else has had any spring breakage. The original buffer was tight, but the replacements I have are not tight.

I am going to take it apart after 1000 pellets and see what it looks like. Might take a few weeks.
 
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JD - very helpful analysis! Thanks for your time. Here is a link to the schematic of the rifle for comparison. I recently replace the orings on the striker spring on mine. They often get eaten when it jams and releases a blast of air from the mag. Perhaps the spring breakage is related to jams with the pistol.

Can this O-ring on the K1 change position along the length of the hole behind the striker or is there something holding it in place towards the back? Can the striker move it about?
 
AMAZING !!!!!!!

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The Huben pistol is simply spectacular, even better then I imagined.



Today Billy came up the North Shore with 2 Huben .25s and I was going to take him up the mountains to shoot but on the way we run into a friend of mine that invited us to his property.



I got a bit distracted when a pretty big fire started in the middle of town so I took a couple rides down to check it out as Billy was setting up.

The Huben pistol is phenomenal, small, light, really well balanced, even the grip feels great ( I was expecting to have to do some reshaping but it's not the case )

The pistol is fun, easy to shoot well and very accurate, big plus my EunJin "Nomads" 43gr pellets fit perfectly in the magazine and they are also accurate, I was able to hit golf balls with open sight at a pretty good rate and the last group on paper was 7-8 shots in a tight almost touching group.



And to finish this post,.......17 shots from 5000 psi 350 BAR would take the gun down to 180 BAR at that point I refilled the gun several times to 5000 psi with my 5-6 year old cheap handpump in no time.



I'm absolutely in love with this pistol and cant wait to get one in my hands.