Good to hear!

If I am going on a hunt which I know I'll be reaching out to 100 yards, and had those two guns you mention to choose from, I certainly would favor the crown, every time, hands down. 700 fps even in mild winds out to 100 yards is not ethical in my humble opinion, again fun and challenging to do, just not on live targets if I had the choice, I'd stick with 900~ fps from the crown.

-Matt
Matt, I am no hunter. I shoot targets, pests and thieves.
 
Matt, I am no hunter. I shoot targets, pests and thieves.

That is the beauty of this hobby, some shoot paper, some prefer to pest/hunt. The latter I wouldn't trust a gk1 out to 100yds myself. Not condemning anyone who does just inserting why I made the earlier comment.

-Matt
 
Your point is well made, but just 2 hours ago with my .25 tuned to 700 ft/sec with the JSB 25.4gr, I was holding a 1 inch group at 25 yards as my zero and with a 3 MOA hold over was consistently hitting a 4" steel plate at 100 meters. I use the same hold over with my FX Crown using the JSB 33.4 gr pellet. Amazing performance for a pistol. In other words , my POA is the same as with my FX Crown at 100 meters. Even though the Crown uses the heavier pellet at 880 FT/Sec. The 3 MOA is based on the reticle of the FFP scope on the Crown. I use a AliExpress reflex sight on the GK1.
I've been following your posts on the .25 cal GK1 - I was looking for a reflex sight with a laser that will work directly on the 11mm rail. Amazon didn't seem to have anything like that. Can you post a link to the AliExpress model that you have? Thanks!
 
I've been following your posts on the .25 cal GK1 - I was looking for a reflex sight with a laser that will work directly on the 11mm rail. Amazon didn't seem to have anything like that. Can you post a link to the AliExpress model that you have? Thanks!
IMG_9698.jpeg

Maybe?
I used these on my 22 pistol, they’re inexpensive and work great with a pic base.
 
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Those of you who want to install a laser and wish to know the easy way to set it up. It is simple. First align the reflex sight, then using the small dot on a blank paper positioned high on the paper, fire a pellet from your desired alignment distance, say 10 to 20 feet, sighting on the reflex sight dot. The pellet should strike the paper the same distance the reflex sight's screen center is above the barrel below the dot you aimed at on the paper. Now, using the same reflex sight's aim point adjust the laser beam to cover the hole you just made. The laser will now be dead on target at that distance.
 
Sorry - missed it earlier - thanks for reposting. Is it really powered by just one CR2032 battery? Even the laser? How long does the battery last?
Surprisingly, the battery for the reflex sight will last quite a while, but it will depend if you shoot a lot and that you always remember to turn it off when you stop shooting. The 2032 will only power the reflex sight. The laser is powered by two LR44 alkaline watch batteries and that is not stated anywhere. They stack on top of each other in the laser tube for 3 volts. You could also use the 375 mercury cells as well, but they are slightly less voltage and that affects the brightness., In both cases, as the batteries fail, you will start to lose brightness and that's a clue to change them out. I know this because I have been using a similar sight on my PP700SA for a few years now. If you, like me, really like these sights, get a spare and keep it around just in case. It takes a while to arrive from China.
 
Is it safe to remove the back plate just to inspect this spring while it's under pressure?
I know you have to remove the back plate to degas it (seriously why is there no degassing screw?), but just making sure it's safe. I have a feeling my spring either broke, or the rubber thing is smooshed.
This is the second striker spring I have had a break. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace, but it should last longer. This time, when I installed the new spring & bushing, I lubed it up with this lube that Krazy Kool recommended to me—I got the lube on Amazon. I did not notice any problems with the performance with the broken spring both times, I had found it when I disassembled it for another reason.

View attachment 402893
 
Is it safe to remove the back plate just to inspect this spring while it's under pressure?
I know you have to remove the back plate to degas it (seriously why is there no degassing screw?), but just making sure it's safe. I have a feeling my spring either broke, or the rubber thing is smooshed.
1) The degas screw is on top of the rear part of the pistol.

2)Alternatively you can degas it by removing the striker spring, reattach the cover with the two screws and fire the pistol. This will dump all the air much quicker than using degas screw.

I prefer the second method as I don’t want to mess up that degas screw and cause a leak. Also the second method is much quicker. Just remember to put the cover back on before you fire a shot without a striker spring or the striker will come rocketing out.
 
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In the video he keeps the rear cover off and catches the valve assembly with a rag instead.

But I only want to inspect the spring an buffer, so I guess I don't have to degas it this time around.
Yes there’s nothing wrong with that way either. I learned my method from a huben video. Tbh the rag method is probably better. Doing it the other way does subject the buffer to higher force since it doesn’t have the spring to help absorb the striker impact. I have been doing it with the way I mentioned multiple times over 4 years (with my k1 bullpup) and haven’t damaged my original buffer yet.
 
November 12, so the next batch should be in by the end of the week ;) ...this is getting real, not been so excited about buying a new airgun in a looooong time.

After testing the .25 I'm just chomping at the bits to have my own.

.........Don't know if I mentioned this before but the Huben pistol is so small and slim that it actually fits inside one of the tactical Fanny packs I have.