Huben pistol.
- Thread starter Nomadic Pirate 66
- Start date
I’m not going to squeeze mine to see because I’m not at home, I just happened to have brought my gk with me.
You can get reasonably close with coil count x wire dia.
Dave
You can get reasonably close with coil count x wire dia.
Dave
Upvote 0
As far as I am concerned, the correct course of action for _Huben_ to undertake is chamfering the buffer inner edge, more chamfer on the metal cover part inner edge, and possibly a beafier spring.
But as a rule of thumb, you should never make alterations to air gun mechanisms yourself, for safety reasons etc. And even less so on a semi-auto.
A slightly more complicated option would be for the "striker" to gain a telescoping spring guide on the inside of the spring- half of it bolted to the striker and the other half bolted to the back cover (which might allow to remove the buffer or to use a different buffer).
But as a rule of thumb, you should never make alterations to air gun mechanisms yourself, for safety reasons etc. And even less so on a semi-auto.
A slightly more complicated option would be for the "striker" to gain a telescoping spring guide on the inside of the spring- half of it bolted to the striker and the other half bolted to the back cover (which might allow to remove the buffer or to use a different buffer).
Last edited:
Upvote 0
My friend just got one, i think it's a V2 (the shadow carbon look instead of the normal carbon pattern).
And the mag lever still the same as the USA V1 version. With the V3 the lever is upside down.
So it must be a V2 i guess.
The lever already snapped (we shot 6 mags or something).
But i think this happens not because of slapping the lever (we didn't do that), but because we filled the gun to 350 bar.
The first 5 mags we filled it to 300 and no problem. The 6th time we filled it to 350 and snap, there he went.
Awesome pistol by the way.
So my advice would be; if you fill the gun above 300 bar, don't touch the lever anymore untill the pressure is low. So fill your mag first, then fill the aircilinder. Not the other way round.
And the mag lever still the same as the USA V1 version. With the V3 the lever is upside down.
So it must be a V2 i guess.
The lever already snapped (we shot 6 mags or something).
But i think this happens not because of slapping the lever (we didn't do that), but because we filled the gun to 350 bar.
The first 5 mags we filled it to 300 and no problem. The 6th time we filled it to 350 and snap, there he went.
Awesome pistol by the way.
So my advice would be; if you fill the gun above 300 bar, don't touch the lever anymore untill the pressure is low. So fill your mag first, then fill the aircilinder. Not the other way round.
Upvote 0
I have been trying to make that a habit. But I did start out filling to 350 first. Always careful with that lever
Upvote 0
I’ll have to correct my assumption on coil being stacked/bound. Even without a buffer, there is room for the spring to fully collapse. 
At this point, I would be considering an internal guide from the back. The front has some degree of external support.
An internal guide could be made tophat style and fit into the cover. I will try to get some measurements later for this.
Dave
At this point, I would be considering an internal guide from the back. The front has some degree of external support.
An internal guide could be made tophat style and fit into the cover. I will try to get some measurements later for this.
Dave
Upvote 0
The grip is ok at the top, but I think it widens a bit too much towards the bottom; sort of leads to less hand support lower down. Or maybe there is too much hump?
The other thing that is too big/too far for me is the far end of the trigger guard. I can't comfortably rest the trigger finger there, until ready to shoot.
Upvote 0
I wander what the thought behind that shape trigger guard was, that is the one thing in the pistol that looks a bit off.
Upvote 0
I suggest you do not understand the issue. Of course there is room to compress. It is the pin travel that is excessive causing the spring to stack. That is what is causing the spring damage.
Upvote 0
Upvote 0
You will need to explain what pin you are referring to. In my picture above, the spring is compressed between the striker and plate cover. This is without the rubber buffer present (which would allow even more room).
Dave
Upvote 0
Hmmm, not that it makes any difference in the end but I think the trigger guard is a bit funky looking,
a rounded one would be more eye appealing,...as I said tho the pistol is that good that I will not even notice the trigger guard
Upvote 0
This bit is trying to be original and recognisable with a catchy look in profile. The other bits are just classy. It does mostly work, but yes the trigger guard is a bridge too far.Hmmm, not that it makes any difference in the end but I think the trigger guard is a bit funky looking,
a rounded one would be more eye appealing,...as I said tho the pistol is that good that I will not even notice the trigger guard
Upvote 0
I like the look of Gregor’s pistol over the production version. From the trigger guard, shroud with pic rail, to the small piece in the back of the pistol that adds style and makes for a better grip. The only things that are better about the production pistol are the longer air tube, better sights, and a more refined grip.Hmmm, not that it makes any difference in the end but I think the trigger guard is a bit funky looking,
a rounded one would be more eye appealing,...as I said tho the pistol is that good that I will not even notice the trigger guard
Upvote 0
Quick question guys, do you need to degass the air cilinder before replacing a snapped mag lever?
Upvote 0
yes. if not you may break the lever housing. that is why the lever is so hard to move when you have a 5000 psi fill. see kraz kool videos on utube. he has a 3 part video.
Upvote 0
The more sound Idea I think is what a member posted earlier, load the mg then fill the gun,....great Idea.
Upvote 0