Hi Brian, I do not know. I do not have a K1 to measure, but it is very easy to see especially if you disassemble the gun. I first discovered this when I reassembled the gun with the magazine backwards.Steve-I,
Is this chamfer you mentioned exclusive to the GK1's magazine bores or is it also a feature of the K1 magazines?
Brian
Steve-I,
Is this chamfer you mentioned exclusive to the GK1's magazine bores or is it also a feature of the K1 magazines?
Brian
Take the rear sight screw out, then those two back plate screws and the back plate. Remove the spring in there and only the spring. Replace the back plate and 2 screws and fire once to empty it....wait for it to drain with a small pop at the end. Then it is empty. No need to shoot with the plate off.Hey folks, just a quick question for the sake of clarity. This is a degassing screw, correct? If so, anyone have any experience using it? Does it vent the air out quick enough, or does it take ages? I really do not like the other method of having to fire the gun with the rear plate off and catching the internals with a rag or something.
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Kelly From KrazCool said to never use that screw because there’s no oring under there and once it’s been disturbed from the factory he’s had some people report slow leaks that can’t be fixed. The method he told me about is to use the bronze screw under the loading gate. It takes longer but no risk to induce a slow leak.Hey folks, just a quick question for the sake of clarity. This is a degassing screw, correct? If so, anyone have any experience using it? Does it vent the air out quick enough, or does it take ages? I really do not like the other method of having to fire the gun with the rear plate off and catching the internals with a rag or something.
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Send a handful of those bad boys over and i’ll find out with my .25Has anyone tried slugs that have drive bands like the MP molds 48 grain that was originally designed for the K-1, or one of the noe BBT 40/50 grain?
I don’t have my gun in hand yet, but I believe it’s on the way… I can cast these and knowing whether they’ve been tested out or not would help me decide how many to cast while I’m waiting for it to get here….
If no one has tried them out, I will be able to post some results here down the line at some point. I’m not partial to slugs or pellets, other than the fact that I have some .25 molds that cast beautifully and it would be nice to be able to recycle the lead not have to constantly buy pellets
I am hoping that MP mold produces something suitable because it’s an eight cavity mold, and I can crank a few tins out pretty quickly when I get in the groove
kind of you to offer… gk1 is in hand a day early!Send a handful of those bad boys over and i’ll find out with my .25
I didn’t even realize there was a windage screwkind of you to offer… gk1 is in hand a day early!
… aaand just back to reload after the first mag. What a treat - started at lower power with an empty 1”x4” can on the end - good for backyard plinking so far but I’m sure I will put baffles in one site dial up the power more. Never shot a gun with a quality trigger before - that’s a huge surprise - such a light touch. Wild! i think i have a vague idea of what people mean by a “clean break”
I got a vevor 3 stage - i can get to 300 bar easily - no need for a compressor if that’s the size I’m going - such a small reservoir lol I used to hand pump my .5L airforce tanks to 3000 psi and the slightly smaller .49?L thick-walled up to 4000 psi so this ain’t bad…
I’ll tell you what I don’t quite know what the obsession is with carbon fiber wraps, but I’d rather have this one than the typical checkerboard one… light plays on it in an interesting way, the finish is matte and pleasant to the touch - actually appears to be carbon fiber, and not just a decorative sticker (but of course its function is only decorative I’m sure).
One odd choice: the windage adjustment screw is flat head, but the elevation adjustment screw is a hex nut. Would be sensible to use a single type of nut so you use a single tool to adjust both.
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Oh, ok. I just assumed that it was the moderator that came with the gun.This is literally just an empty aluminum tube! I haven’t shot over a chronograph (so it may be I haven’t gotten close to high power yet). Works great for me. Not looking for any particular level of quiet, I just don’t want it to be making a roar. I get a distinct, pop, pop, pop, but it’s pleasant and there’s no distinct echo.
When it dry fires, it’s quite a bit louder and sounds like some kind of low powered fire cracker, followed by a distinct echo coming back from the treeline. I will post updates here as I step up the power and try out some 3d inserts i have in mind. Rocker1 (david) made the can for me - i have a variety of different lengths.
This is literally just an empty aluminum tube! I haven’t shot over a chronograph (so it may be I haven’t gotten close to high power yet). Works great for me. Not looking for any particular level of quiet, I just don’t want it to be making a roar. I get a distinct, pop, pop, pop, but it’s pleasant and there’s no distinct echo.
When it dry fires, it’s quite a bit louder and sounds like some kind of low powered fire cracker, followed by a distinct echo coming back from the treeline. I will post updates here as I step up the power and try out some 3d inserts i have in mind. Rocker1 (david) made the can for me - i have a variety of different lengths.
Two things about my new OEM moderator...Oh, ok. I just assumed that it was the moderator that came with the gun.
Thanks,
Norris