Huben pistol.
- Thread starter Nomadic Pirate 66
- Start date
Right on Pirate! PCP air pistols have always had to be absurdly large to produce even modest power (looking at you, HW44 and BRK atomic). The GK1 has blown that constraint away. Yet, it is still, in my opinion, a very chunky pistol. What I dream about now is a shorty variant in 177 with a smaller air tube, 6in barrel with active shroud and integrated 2in mod, capable of shooting one 10-12 shot mag with a flat string at 20fpe. That would be the ultimate portable and stealthy (small game) hunter/pester!
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Hook me up as well please!
This is probably a stupid idea but, the lower shot count of the shorty could be remedied with a (short) secondary airtank, a bit like on the Hatsan Jet 2.
It would definitely make it more bulky, but at least it'll maintain the shorter length while also having the same shot count as the long version (maybe even a little higher). In other words: gimme a dual-tank shorty!
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Quick tip for those of you who plan to degas the GK1 using the brass screw underneath the loading gate at some point:
Make sure you mark the screw's default alignment before you mess with it, either with a permanent marker or two small pieces of tape or something like that. You may also want to keep track of the amount of turns you're making.
The screw will start letting air through regardless of which way you turn it (in or out). It's not a simple as screwing it out and then all the way back in again when you're done degassing it. If the alignment is even slighly off from what it used to be, the gun will leak. Found that out the hard way. I spent about half an hour making small turns and then applying leak detector spray to see if air was coming through, until it finally sealed properly.
From what I've been able to see on videos and pictures, the default alignment of the screw differs for every GK1. So marking yours is definitely a good idea if you're planning to use this degassing method.
Make sure you mark the screw's default alignment before you mess with it, either with a permanent marker or two small pieces of tape or something like that. You may also want to keep track of the amount of turns you're making.
The screw will start letting air through regardless of which way you turn it (in or out). It's not a simple as screwing it out and then all the way back in again when you're done degassing it. If the alignment is even slighly off from what it used to be, the gun will leak. Found that out the hard way. I spent about half an hour making small turns and then applying leak detector spray to see if air was coming through, until it finally sealed properly.
From what I've been able to see on videos and pictures, the default alignment of the screw differs for every GK1. So marking yours is definitely a good idea if you're planning to use this degassing method.
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@DonEnzone
Erh, that ruins the lines. A different shroud might allow for a slightly fatter shorter tank (if newly made/designed). In fact, there is also the option for normal length air cylinder but shorter and integrally suppressed barrel.
Still super cool, shortened as it is.
Erh, that ruins the lines. A different shroud might allow for a slightly fatter shorter tank (if newly made/designed). In fact, there is also the option for normal length air cylinder but shorter and integrally suppressed barrel.
Still super cool, shortened as it is.
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@DonEnzone It can work with a conical insert/adapter with the correct threads, but it's probably too much work for aftermarket - this would need sourcing a suitable larger OD and slightly thicker wall thickness titanium tube (and also making the adapter itself).
Wall thickness would needs to increase slightly with larger OD, to keep the pressure rating.
Wall thickness would needs to increase slightly with larger OD, to keep the pressure rating.
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Having something to cover the tubes so it doesn’t look like 2 cylinders should improve the aesthetics substantially.
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I’m just loving this thing… the trigger is such a change over the previous guns I’ve shot. I watched a complete disassembly video yesterday - very interesting the way it is constructed…. Seems very carefully thought out and easy to work with.
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We where still able to shoot quite a bit of rounds per fill, I was at work so we didn't have much time to play but Billy will come back one day that I will be open to shoot a bunch and collect data.
I would never want a twin tube on this gun it's just so sweet as is that I would not want to ruin the feel and looks, it's just absolutely fantastic.
I like how Kelly kept the OEM shroud so you still have the original front sight.
I would never want a twin tube on this gun it's just so sweet as is that I would not want to ruin the feel and looks, it's just absolutely fantastic.
I like how Kelly kept the OEM shroud so you still have the original front sight.
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Also like how the shorty seems to have more muzzle flip, might be wrong but it did to me.
will get a better feel on that once I get to shoot the gun more.
will get a better feel on that once I get to shoot the gun more.
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Hi guys, I have a question: I have received two custom spare parts from Ares Airguns: A speedloader and a more durable magazine lever. I was wondering if I could just unscrew those two pieces to put the new ones, or if anything specific should be done before ? (like degasing the gun or something); I suppose there is nothing to do but I'd rather make it sure to be on the safe side.
Thank you!
Thank you!
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The speed loader does not need the gun degassed to replace that part. As far as the lever goes, I've read that the gun does not need degassed but the screws need to be loosened evenly, a few turns at a time, and tightened the same. Here's a video of the replacement on a K1, showing there's still air in the cylinder.
Something I found... Check to make certain that the lever is not an OEM part that you are changing out needlessly. There was no difference in the two of mine, so the original will stay on for now. It helps to apply a thin film of good grease to that cam lobe to keep it running smoothly. The lobe is easily accessed through the hole in the housing with the grip removed.
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I see thanks. I'm wondering why the lever needs to be loosened evenly. What happens if you remove completely one screw before the other?
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The lever assembly has pressure against it & is being pushed out as you remove the screws. I found the screws trying to bind up in the housing if I did not remove them evenly. If your gun is degassed, that would not be an issue.
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