I forgot to respond to this.....No it doesn't swing much at all, unless I run, which doesn't happen with me these days. The single point portion of my sling is short enough to prevent much swaying.
Thanks for the comments.
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Huben pistol.
- Thread starter Nomadic Pirate 66
- Start date
Thanks for the comments.
Does anyone know the details behind the pressure guage on the GK1? Im thinking about replacing it with a digital guage at some point. The smallest one I can find so far is 25mm (I'm assuming diameter) with 1/8 BSP threads.
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From what I’ve found the problem is the 5000psi fill pressure as most digi gauges appear to stop at 4500. I already reached out to Sekhmet with a caliper measuring the diameter and mentioning that the ability to see pressure consumption per shot & estimated shots would be awesome but it would need a higher pressure and to smoosh the features in their 28mm gauge into a 25mm body.
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Digitale Manometer Sekhmet 1/8 BSP Black 25 mm Basic
www.krale.shop This one from Sekhmet can measure up to 400 bar (approx 5800 psi) and is 25mm in diameter. But I don't know if the threads size and length is compatible
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I’ve never seen someone remove the gauge in a disassembly video so I always assumed it had a proprietary thread or is some type of compression fitting. Hopefully someone can enlighten usDigitale Manometer Sekhmet 1/8 BSP Black 25 mm Basic
This one from Sekhmet can measure up to 400 bar (approx 5800 psi) and is 25mm in diameter. But I don't know if the threads size and length is compatible
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The Huben GK1 pressure guage does not have threads and does not screw on/off. It slips on and off when degassed.
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I was watching the disassembly video - interesting choice with the unthreaded gauge.
I’ve been shooting mine at about 35FPE just shot a few shots over the chronograph, and as other people have noticed the change in velocity from shot to shot is smaller than i expected!
I will eventually post some shot strings here.
I don’t know when I will get around to casting, but I also checked the noe bbt 50 grain slug - it is pretty much exactly the size of the chambers and should fit perfectly if the diameter is right.
I’ve been shooting mine at about 35FPE just shot a few shots over the chronograph, and as other people have noticed the change in velocity from shot to shot is smaller than i expected!
I will eventually post some shot strings here.
I don’t know when I will get around to casting, but I also checked the noe bbt 50 grain slug - it is pretty much exactly the size of the chambers and should fit perfectly if the diameter is right.
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Glad you’re having fun! Those gauges are a PITA in truth. Almost always the source of leaks on my K1 rifles. It’s best to avoid touching them if the gun is not filled because even a small turn can upset the seal. Another Huben idosyncrasity that I wish they would ditch. A threaded gauge would make degassing a breeze.
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Right ? ...Unbelievable what they been able to do with such a small cylinder and no regulator, If you want massive power you can have it, if you want medium power with a good amount of shots you can have it, if you want low power with a ton of shots you can have it....and all that with extremely simple operation, once again, phenomenal pistol
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I’m realizing now the other thing that is so nice is the action of the firing and semi-auto mechanism: It doesn’t sound like someone’s plunging a toilet with a pogo stick. Do I need to mention the brand i’m thinking of?
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It is listed as 300 bar max pressure elsewhere (gen 2).Digitale Manometer Sekhmet 1/8 BSP Black 25 mm Basic
This one from Sekhmet can measure up to 400 bar (approx 5800 psi) and is 25mm in diameter. But I don't know if the threads size and length is compatible
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Says 400 bar here, I dunno what to say. Either way... it doesn't matter since Huben chose their own "unconventional" way to handle the guage. Bit of a shame. A big part of the appeal of airguns for me is customization and personalization. But Huben doesn't really seem to care for that stuff. Don't get me wrong, the GK1 is a great pistol. It's just something I miss with this platform. It is possible to customize a bit, but it requires your own handy work (3d printing, painting, machining, etc).
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I guess I should step back a bit with my gauge critique, especially for the GK1: the advantage of the Huben gauge, which was always intended to be attached to the action, is that it is very low profile. A conventional gauge would require deep threads to be secure at 350-400bar. No doubt we would then be complaint about having a chunky gauge sticking out. The safest bet, if you degas and remove the gauge, is to replace the underlying oring. It readily gets compromised during removal because the gauge has to be dragged across its surface. Other than that, the Huben gauges have proved to be very accurate, as based on comparison with my compressor and bottle gauges.
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I don’t think you’re referring to this platform but I’ll add that the Leshiy 2 mechanism is also not so nice. The trigger directly actuates the valve and has a long mushy stage two pull that requires a consistent and committed pull that isn’t adjustable. If you pull it part way, looking for a precise breakpoint, it starts to release air. I guess you could think of it as operating in an analog manner, like the brakes on a bicycle. The Huben trigger is really on a par with match grade bolt action PCPs, especially if you address the slop in that silver linkage.
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I think you mentioned this in an earlier post. as I was shooting at the last two days I was scratching my head, trying to figure out what slop you were talking about because I didn’t detect any when shooting. this is just because I’m used to much cruder mechanisms and I’m close inspection. I see what you’re talking about.
Maybe this is a stupid question… Is there any benefit to having that tiny bit of freedom of motion at those connection points? Also, would you share the steps you took to address it on your GK1? It’s not that I can’t see where to start, but it’s always interesting to see how these things look to somebody else and how they approach them.
Maybe this is a stupid question… Is there any benefit to having that tiny bit of freedom of motion at those connection points? Also, would you share the steps you took to address it on your GK1? It’s not that I can’t see where to start, but it’s always interesting to see how these things look to somebody else and how they approach them.
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My guess is that a very small amount of slop might be needed to prevent sticking. Mine is better with just a couple of thin washers preventing side to side movement but I am waiting on a piece of metal to fabricate a more tight fitting linkage.
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