Huben pistol.

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Nutcracker said:
All three times my GK1 seemed to function fine. I only discovered the damaged spring when I removed the end cap.
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If the GK1 functioned perfectly fine just before you removed the endcap, i would almost think that the removing of the endcap causes the damage to the spring.

If i read the explanation of Pale Rider well, the valve would stay open if the spring is damaged and you shoot.
 
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Harold999 said:
If the GK1 functioned perfectly fine just before you removed the endcap, i would almost think that the removing of the endcap causes the damage to the spring.

If i read the explanation of Pale Rider well, the valve would stay open if the spring is damaged and you shoot.
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I can assure you removing the endcap does not damage the spring.
 
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Huben K1 barrel cleaner (edit: works for .22 and .25)

Just sharing a hack devised to clean the K1 barrel quickly and easily. My friend and owner of a 25 confessed that he had never cleaned his barrel (3 years and many thousand shots!) because he didn’t want to get into any disassembly. We set about crafting a device to clean it that doesn’t...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Pale_Rider said:
View attachment 410356

The striker spring returns the striker so that the firing valve stays closed. The striker is held in place by a sear. When you pull the trigger the sear drops and the firing valve opens, pushing the striker back. The striker compresses the spring and the spring returns the striker.


View attachment 410358

The firing valve is comprised of two parts that when pressurized want to split apart to release the air. The striker along with the sear hold this valve closed.
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Pale Rider,
I have a question. I have disassembled my .25 pistol to inspect and take measurements. I have fired around 1,000 pellets. I have no damage to either the buffer or spring, but they fit fit in the striker and nylon sleeve snug. Is that normal?. The real question is the valve, which is made up of the center pin and the outer sleeve/bushing. My question is mine do not separate. They slide for about 1.5 mm and then jam. I appreciate the polished finish on these parts is critical to prevent leaks, but I think they should separate and slide freely and they do not. I have clamped the outer bushing in a rubber jawed vice and tapped the back of the valve pin with a brass pin and light hammer. The valve pin travels 1.5 mm and then no more. I am reluctant to use more force for fear of damage. I occasionally get doubles and I have adjusted the secondary sear screw correctly. What do you think? As a note, I fill to 300 bar and the power is set to 700 FPS with a 25.4 gr JSB pellet, a long way from max.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
For the folks interested in and preordering (or thinking about ordering) the Huben pistol, what are your intended uses
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Ezana4CE said:
For the folks interested in and preordering (or thinking about ordering) the Huben pistol, what are your intended uses?
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The first rule of Fight Club is....
 
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steve-l said:
Pale Rider,
I have a question. I have disassembled my .25 pistol to inspect and take measurements. I have fired around 1,000 pellets. I have no damage to either the buffer or spring, but they fit fit in the striker and nylon sleeve snug. Is that normal?. The real question is the valve, which is made up of the center pin and the outer sleeve/bushing. My question is mine do not separate. They slide for about 1.5 mm and then jam. I appreciate the polished finish on these parts is critical to prevent leaks, but I think they should separate and slide freely and they do not. I have clamped the outer bushing in a rubber jawed vice and tapped the back of the valve pin with a brass pin and light hammer. The valve pin travels 1.5 mm and then no more. I am reluctant to use more force for fear of damage. I occasionally get doubles and I have adjusted the secondary sear screw correctly. What do you think? As a note, I fill to 300 bar and the power is set to 700 FPS with a 25.4 gr JSB pellet, a long way from max.
Click to expand...
Kelly from https://krazcool.com/ made a series of videos of the disassembly procedure that show the valve assembly partially separated from the seated position as he removed it. Does this image from his video show the two parts separated further than your's? It would seem that the two parts should separate, as they assembled slid together. You might contact the manufacturer for replacement warranty parts, especially if you are getting double shots and it isn't stopped by a trigger adjustment.

Screenshot_20231128-154007.png
 
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This is a very clever mechanism and very simple in its design. Before disassembly, I had no idea how it worked.
Airgun-hobbyist said:
Kelly from https://krazcool.com/ made a series of videos of the disassembly procedure that show the valve assembly partially separated from the seated position as he removed it. Does this image from his video show the two parts separated further than your's? It would seem that the two parts should separate, as they assembled slid together. You might contact the manufacturer for replacement warranty parts, especially if you are getting double shots and it isn't stopped by a trigger adjustment.

View attachment 410556
Click to expand...
The item is identified as part number 5 in the Huben IPB. The pin and sleeve appears to be a matched pair. I would think also that should slide together, but perhaps not. Just looking for an answer.
 
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They slide together but should not come apart.

When the sear is released, the cylindrical end blows open, pulling the poppet end from the seat. The cylindrical end is a larger od than the sealing area of the poppet end.

There is movement between so that the poppet end is allowed to ‘float’ in the closed position. This is necessary so that the distance between sear and poppet seat is not critical.

Dave
 
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Harold999 said:
My friend just replaced the broken mag lever without degassing the air cilinder.
No issue's, went well.
(it was at around 140 bar).
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It’s good to learn something new about this platform. Thanks for reporting back.
steve-l said:
Pale Rider,
I have a question. I have disassembled my .25 pistol to inspect and take measurements. I have fired around 1,000 pellets. I have no damage to either the buffer or spring, but they fit fit in the striker and nylon sleeve snug. Is that normal?. The real question is the valve, which is made up of the center pin and the outer sleeve/bushing. My question is mine do not separate. They slide for about 1.5 mm and then jam. I appreciate the polished finish on these parts is critical to prevent leaks, but I think they should separate and slide freely and they do not. I have clamped the outer bushing in a rubber jawed vice and tapped the back of the valve pin with a brass pin and light hammer. The valve pin travels 1.5 mm and then no more. I am reluctant to use more force for fear of damage. I occasionally get doubles and I have adjusted the secondary sear screw correctly. What do you think? As a note, I fill to 300 bar and the power is set to 700 FPS with a 25.4 gr JSB pellet, a long way from max.
Click to expand...
It is normal for the buffer to get tighter around the spring.

The valve is not supposed to separate completely. The two parts of the valve are press fit. Do not try to disassemble it other wise you risk damaging the seal inside of the valve.

As far as your double firres: have you tried adding more tension with the second screw?
 
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I think the above valve explanation is incorrect. Careful examination of the valve assembly reveals a very small bleed hole at the back of the poppet stem. I believe tank air pressure through this hole acts on the stem of the poppet to hold the valve closed. When the sear releases the striker the spring forces the floating sleeve forward blocking the bleed hole. Then the tank pressure acting on the back of the poppet head (note the head shape) is removed and the same tank pressure acting on the poppet head exceeds the pressure now blocked by the sleeve lifting the the poppet off the seat violently throwing the poppet and sleeve , as well as the striker to the rear compressing the spring. The spring then returns the whole assembly forward, which uncovers the bleed hole via poppet inertia, allowing the tank pressure to again force the poppet closed against its seat. Simultaneously, the striker is recaptured by the trigger sear ready for the next shot.

This design is brilliant, as it eliminates the need of a plenum, as used in conventional PCP guns. With this design, charge volume is controlled by tank pressure and cycle time. . . . . .ingenious! So yeah, that spring tension is very important, it controls charge volume along with tank pressure. Think waste air. My thinking is that if you wish to use very high air pressure for max power, that spring needs to be a bit stiffer.
 
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