New grip installed.

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Without a stock on it yet, mine currently looks a bit like Tech9 hahah
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Hey I want to get one of them tube clamp for my Carbine to ad an angled grip,

What size is that one ? ......BuckRail sell the 34mm and I have it in my Cart with the Poor man buttstock just waiting for the grip adapter to come out,...is that one the right size ?

Thanks in advance
 
Thanks
Whats the web of the hand sits too low?
The web between thumb and forefinger, that is where your wrist line is and in that grip is way to low for my personal liking, I want my wrist line as close as possible to my sights.
 
This is all truе, but there are tangible things that can be done to up the bar even more: crisp break trigger, pic or 11mm rails on top and back of the receiver, more consistent shroud seating on the receiver and а threaded barrel (while retaining barrel tensioning), standard replaceable dovetail mounted iron sights, possibly a longer and a shorter versions.
After owning the k1 for 5 years the trigger on the GK1 is an improvement. The trigger for me doesn’t leave much to be desired unless I needed a match grade trigger for competition. For my purposes the trigger is perfect. The shroud seating would solve a minor inconvenience. I haven’t noticed any accuracy issues from the tensioned shroud as noted by another member.

My only gripe with the GK1/K1 is the pins for the trigger mechanism are a B**** to remove. The first iteration of the K1 had a plate that could be removed to easily access the trigger parts (like the sk-19 receiver). Huben did away with this and uses little plastic plugs to hold the pins in place. These have to be drilled out and they don’t come out as easy as the video lol. And you better have the precision of a surgeon or you’ll mar the finish. Again not really a big deal because it’s my first time in 5 years having to remove the pins.


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After owning the k1 for 5 years the trigger on the GK1 is an improvement. The trigger for me doesn’t leave much to be desired unless I needed a match grade trigger for competition. For my purposes the trigger is perfect. The shroud seating would solve a minor inconvenience. I haven’t noticed any accuracy issues from the tensioned shroud as noted by another member.

My only gripe with the GK1/K1 is the pins for the trigger mechanism are a B**** to remove. The first iteration of the K1 had a plate that could be removed to easily access the trigger parts (like the sk-19 receiver). Huben did away with this and uses little plastic plugs to hold the pins in place. These have to be drilled out and they don’t come out as easy as the video lol. And you better have the precision of a surgeon or you’ll mar the finish. Again not really a big deal because it’s my first time in 5 years having to remove the pins.


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A good wall with no creep improves my own accuracy (with a stock) two fold. This is a significant improvement, when it comes to the amateur portion of users.
 
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The web between thumb and forefinger, that is where your wrist line is and in that grip is way to low for my personal liking, I want my wrist line as close as possible to my sights.
I see what you mean. The problem is the Huben will not allow me to make it any higher because of the parts that connect to the Huben. The other company Buck R, has to move the grip back about .7 inches to clear parts in the Huben. Look at the space from the trigger blade to the back of your web of your thumb and you can see what I am talking about. To long for my personal liking so I had to make my own.

I am working on a grip with a pictanny rail on the back so you can attach a folding stock. Well I already have it done I am just waiting for the folding stock to come in.

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I routed the bottom of the grip to accept the grip plug of the Cobra stock. The stock is the Balista version.
There is a little Gorilla tape and zip tie action on the cheek weld to lock the stock in the semi collapsed forward position shown in my photo. This gives a nice stable foregrip. This set up gives me 4 usable shooting configurations.
i am interested to see a few close-ups of how you have been modifying the grip to attach the stock. would you share some pictures of how you have done it? i have one of those stocks incoming, unfortunately it only has the glock grip inserts, but i will try to modify them to be attached underneath the grip somehow. thank you.
 
I ses what you mean. The problem is the Huben will not allow me to make it any higher because of the parts that connect to the Huben. The other company Buck R, has to move the grip back about .7 inches to clear parts in the Huben. Look at the space from the trigger blade to the back of your web of your thumb and you can see what I am talking about. To long for my personal liking so I had to make my own.

I am working on a grip with a pictanny rail on the back so you can attach a folding stock. Well I already have it done I am just waiting for the folding stock to come in.

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I like all those slots. There is room for a lot of variables. I also like the strength of the grip being part of the Picatinny rail. It looks rugged.
 
i am interested to see a few close-ups of how you have been modifying the grip to attach the stock. would you share some pictures of how you have done it? i have one of those stocks incoming, unfortunately it only has the glock grip inserts, but i will try to modify them to be attached underneath the grip somehow. thank you.
i am interested to see a few close-ups of how you have been modifying the grip to attach the stock. would you share some pictures of how you have done it? i have one of those stocks incoming, unfortunately it only has the glock grip inserts, but i will try to modify them to be attached underneath the grip somehow. thank you.
Groucho, the Glock version looks like a tough job to adapt to the Huben. Fab Defence makes a version of the Cobra Folding Stock for the Ballista Bat Reverse crossbow. It can be found on eBay. That’s what I used.
 
Groucho, the Glock version looks like a tough job to adapt to the Huben. Fab Defence makes a version of the Cobra Folding Stock for the Ballista Bat Reverse crossbow. It can be found on eBay. That’s what I used.
thank you for your response. yes, i am aware, that those inserts as such would need some very delicate hollowing to fit and then pose the risk of the wood to split, if too much forces spreads inside the wooden handle. i wouldn't do that, but i plan to model a base piece (from aliminum), like the one for the crossbow, that you have used. and i am interested how you solved that. you mentioned 'routing', so i imagine you have done some carving to the grip to make it fit, or am i mistaken?